Indeed. We've got an eagle eyed crowd!

Apr 12, 2022,07:55 AM

I wouldn't be surprised if we were all eagle eyed on a Patek Philippe movement. But on a Bulgari movement! I AM IMPRESSED!

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Something Unusual About The Caliber BVL 138 and its Jewels, Introducing Spacer Jewels

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-06:31
WOW. OUR MEMBERS ARE SUPER EAGLE EYED! I never ceased to be impressed by the readers on WatchProSite! Very impressed. The Version 1 Caliber BVL 138 has 36 jewels. The Version 2 BVL 138 caliber only has 31 jewels. A funny detail about the V1 caliber is tha...  

More changes...

 By: Jakub M : April 12th, 2022-07:12
The gold filled engravings are also gone, the new big plate design evokes Panerai rather than the svelte previous version, looks like automatic winding system was adjusted as we previously discussed difficulty to wind to full power, the rotor is certainly... 

Agreed! You've got a keen eye!

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-07:51
I wanted to introduce some members to spacer jewels, as not everyone is familiar with spacer jewels in watchmaking as they're somewhat uncommon to be seen with the naked eye. But you took it to the next level! You mentioned many more of the changes!

Fixing the rotor issue?

 By: m2 : April 12th, 2022-07:23
Mine wouldn’t wind at all and I know a few others with similar issues fyi. Guessing these revisions are to fix it?

Definitely a possibility!

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-07:48
The BVL 138 does have some winding issues. So I wouldn't be surprised if they modified it to make it work a bit better. The new rotor does look larger, which would imply it should work better.

Mine usually lasted for 30h after I worn it for couple of days.

 By: Jakub M : April 12th, 2022-08:23
SA at BG boutique said that it is normal and it likely cannot be fully wound from wearing it alone, I thought he was joking, I eventually ended up selling the watch (not for this reason, bought winder).

I see!

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-08:47
It takes 2170 turns in the CW direction, if I recall correctly, to satisfy this watch! Edit: Clockwise, not Counter-clockwise.


 By: Jakub M : April 12th, 2022-09:45
Funnily enough, when I was looking for this information it was nowhere to be found.

I had to ask Bulgari internally.

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-13:00
I too had looked, and it was nowhere to be found. And I just realized I made a mistake. It's CW, not CCW.

Ouch! That’s a really bad watch!

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-16:15
You know somethings definitely broken when it won’t wind!

Great post OP! Yes, some Octos had winding problems (some reported 'jumping seconds') and so that it probably addressed with this movement variant.

 By: enjoythemusic : April 12th, 2022-13:28
Yet why remove the gold-filled lettering and would love to know why a change in the balance wheel? For clarification, a new movement number (??BVL 138a??) is desired to reflect the updated movement. Love my 'old' Octo FS and feel it better presents a fine... 

Indeed. We've got an eagle eyed crowd!

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-07:55
I wouldn't be surprised if we were all eagle eyed on a Patek Philippe movement. But on a Bulgari movement! I AM IMPRESSED!

Indeed! At least some of us!

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-13:08
But we seem to be pretty fair. When Montblanc Villeret made a specific steel watch model with that Minerva Villeret movement, I think we had over 20 owners of the 50 watches ever made! And that was already several years ago!

Addition to your clarification request, and a gripe

 By: jiggerly-cool : April 12th, 2022-09:54
Hi Patrick, when you inquire with your Bulgari contact, please also ask how the jewels are counted, whether the 36 included the spacers. Aren't only bearing/pivot jewels supposed to be counted? This harks back to the days of yore before rules were tighten... 

Will do!

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-12:55
I have a feeling that these "spacer jewels" are indeed counted on this particular model. I'll see what I can find out!

I Agree!

 By: LarsG : April 12th, 2022-12:26

Accuracy is usually designed into the base caliber.

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-12:53
Revisions to a caliber are usually done to address deficiencies realized from real-world situations and reliability. But overall, watch calibers are consistently being designed to become easier to assemble, easier to regulate, easier to service, and gener... 

Reminds me of why i walked away from the music BUSINESS years ago.

 By: enjoythemusic : April 12th, 2022-16:09
But that's a whole 'nother can-o-worms.

Looking forward to hearing that story someday!

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-16:12
Someone get the popcorn ready!

OH HECK YES!!!! Yet first, i must show gratitude for my very wise, and understanding, Muse.

 By: enjoythemusic : April 12th, 2022-17:10
Patrick, it a mixed story filled with many early 'victories'... and later homelessness of my own making. Today, it brings added appreciation for many 'simple pleasures'... and knowing if a 'reset' happens we'll be fine. Chronometer, as an artist i truly '...  

That is impressive my friend! Thanks for taking the time to share. Your story regarding your “muse” is very touching. Staying grounded is so important …

 By: Chronometer (aka yacomino) : April 12th, 2022-21:46
I am really happy you her in your life and that you also get to experience several of your passions! Regarding Laine, I am very close to ordering a V38 myself. Such a nice brand

Many thanks, I truly appreciate it. My Muse's custom Laine...

 By: enjoythemusic : April 12th, 2022-21:52
Niiiice, go for it as i think he's booked through the end of this year right now. Was thinking of going with a custom Tux dial, but as my Muse and I were looking at his Instagram page she instantly fell in love with this below combo, so she won this round...  

Yeah this one is spectacular! 👍

 By: Chronometer (aka yacomino) : April 12th, 2022-21:54

Lucky lady and lucky you!

 By: patrick_y : April 13th, 2022-02:54

Wow! That's confidence right there. And a very special outlook on life!

 By: patrick_y : April 13th, 2022-02:53
You must have an incredibly loving family whom you know will be supportive no matter what happens! Good for you! You are an incredibly fortunate man!

It seems less finished

 By: TeutonicCarFan : April 12th, 2022-12:59
The first edition had better anglage, cote de Geneve, chamfered screw slots, gold lettering, gold balance wheel, more shape to plates and Canon wheel, escapement is visible. All and all a big decrease in finishing. This as novice looking plainly. -kevin

Looks that way from the photos.

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-13:05
Hard to say without seeing it. The Cote de Geneve I do believe is machine applied. The gold lettering might not be gold plating, but just a brass movement showing through, and they covered that area with a gel before rhodium plating the movement. I'm not ... 

Well working better is important!

 By: TeutonicCarFan : April 12th, 2022-13:24

Hopefully that's the case!

 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-13:25
I did wish my Octo Finissimo wound more efficiently!