Baselworld 2010: Patek Philippe Chronographs
By Jerome Berder
I know you've all long waited to see these pictures. The Patek Philippe 5070 has been a probable favourite for many years. Here comes the time of the new Patek Philippe 5170.
The real news is that this new very classical two counter chronograph doesn't come alone. You'll see a bit later several other choices that will tempt you.
The true news is that you'll keep coming back on the 5170!
Patek Philippe 5170J
The new Patek Philippe 5170J is a 39mm Calatrava style cased with a moderate thickness of only 10.90mm.
The style of the case and dial is not the major difference with the now gone 5070. The most interesting part is the new calibre that we already saw last fall in the Ladies First chronograph reference 7071. This still new chronograph calibre is the first "simple" manual wind chronograph calibre by Patek Philippe and for a first they did it more than well!
New reference 5170 and its calibre CH 29-535 PS
You may want to have a look at what I wrote in November about the reference 7071 and the calibre CH 29-535 PS:
We can all appreciate what is offered by the new calibre and in the mean time consider it as a perfect complement to the CH 27-70 PS of the 5070.
Better than ever
The very functional performances of a modern automatic chronograph calibre like the one of the 5960 are very appealing and hard to beat on an every day basis.
On the contrary the "old" charm of a manual wind two counter chronograph calibre is comparably appealing, for different reasons.
One of these reasons is the apparent complexity of the numerous parts' dance. Operating the chronograph functions becomes a real pleasure while looking at the back.
Hammers are pressing the hearts, the counters are reset
Furthermore a manual wind chronograph calibre is a better support to show the best finish and the most refined architecture of bridges and levers.
This CH 29-535 PS is an excellent example of such aesthetical virtues.
The chronograph wheels are engaged, the counting has started
We could wonder why such manual wind chronograph calibres have become so rare? Is it because we're not so many to appreciate them or because they would be more difficult to craft than their automatic counterparts? I honestly have no answer!
The chronograph wheels are no longer engaged but the counters are not reset
The classic style of the chronograph seems to be a quite relevant nest for the classic calibre. The traditional cold-forming process used to create this case produces an ever lasting result that may make us hold our breath for years.
The first pulsometre Patek Philippe chronograph in a long while
We've not discussed that aspect yet but the new 5170 is announced only in yellow gold so far. Of course it will certainly be issued in other colours some day. You may be interested in the picture below as it looks strangely pink? As I should be discovering the real thing while you read these words, I may have an answer soon.
Strangely that watch looks pink but don't dream
I'm not a yellow gold watch amateur but until I try this watch I have to say that I have the impression that I could wear it even in this colour. The overall look is really perfectly executed and this calibre is just so……well you know!
Inspired from a classic Calatrava 96 case
I've said earlier that there were several new chronographs from Patek Philippe this year. Let's have a look at a watch we already know, if not with this new dial.
The 5960P adopts a new matt blue sunburst dial that may please those who loved the 5070P! The dial and hands change but the watch keeps all its other characteristics.
Patek Philippe 5960P and its new matt blue sunburst dial
Then comes the surprise ! We had been long waiting for the 5170 and I'm very happy to see it as it is, but I can say that the most pleasing surprise is the new 5950.
The new Patek Philippe 5950A –yes a steel manual wind chronograph- is the new chronograph of choice for the most discerning collectors. The steel case won't be enough to make it affordable as it offers us a new version of the manual wind split seconds chronograph, using the calibre CHR 27-525 PS of the 5959. The 5950 is seemingly a 39mm cased watch that will please all who were stopped by the very small case of the 5959.
The cushion shaped case and the finely decorated dial will make this watch a true treasure!
Patek Philippe 5950A
The new marvel is obviously inspired by the two cushion shaped vintage chronographs that were shown last fall at the launch of the Ladies First chronograph.
It will also remind us the 5020!
Patek Philippe cushion-shaped split second chronograph in yellow gold
It is in fact a nice combination of the style of the "simple" one with the complication and rarity of the split second one. Any one ordered it yet?
Patek Philippe cushion-shaped chronograph from 1929 in yellow gold
The next one is probably the proof of the total discontinuation of the ex Lemania based calibre CH 27-70 line and especially the 5004.
Here comes the new split seconds perpetual calendar chronograph. It was certainly more logical for Patek Philippe to add a perpetual calendar to the already existing in-house (and ultra thin) split second chronograph calibre than to work on the base of the new CH 29-535 PS!
The perpetual calendar version offers a more modern dial look, compared to the 5950. I keep my preference for the 5950A, but I can't wait to see the 5951!
Patek Philippe 5951P
Let's finish with two new versions on the base of the real sports chronograph from Patek Philippe. The 5980R on a crocodile strap will add some glamour to sporting activities. The 5N colour of gold is more red than the traditional pink gold and consequently said to be more masculine.
The dark brown to brown dial will add a very warm touch to the heavy case. We know how well it works on the 5167R!
Patek Philippe 5980R
The new charcoal gray to black dial 5980/1A may be a complement to the current blue dial Nautilus. I don't know yet if the blue dial version is replaced or completed.
The white numeral on black background date is particularly nice.
Patek Philippe 5980/1A and its new charcoal gray and black dial
As you may be thinking right now, I can't wait to handle all these new chronographs and all the other new Patek Philippe models that will certainly come with them.
I hope you enjoyed them.
Cheers
Dje
EDITOR'S NOTE
Probably the most cohesive collection at Baselworld 2010 was from Patek Philippe, according to dealers and pundits.The chronographs are just one half of the story.....
Melvyn Teillol-Foo