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Baselworld 2010: Hermès

Baselworld 2010: Hermès
By Melvyn Teillol-Foo

You read it here first:  Hermès is on the brink of better things in haute horlogerie!

It has been a mystery to PuristS why Hermès has not broken through in luxury watches. They have so many things in their favour already:
A well recognised luxury brand.
More than 170 years design experience.
Glamorous and affluent clientele.
Nearly 4 decades in watch sales.
Adequate finances.
25% stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier.

Methinks they needed a management team that knows the watch business but they have that now.... with recent hiring, so we are hopeful. Here are a few examples of what they can do with ‘pieces exceptional’ that bodes well for when they get their own movement up and running.

Arceau Cheval de Légende

Dial enamelled using the paillonné technique and reflecting the silk square design by Benoît-Pierre Émery; Piece Unique.

Cape Cod Quadrige

Miniature painting, grand feu enamelled using the cloisonné technique Inspired by the “Quadrige” Hermès silk square by Benoît-Pierre Émery; Piece Unique.

Arceau Pocket Duc attelé

Natural white mother-of-pearl, hand-engraved and depictinga detail from a drawing by Alfred de Dreux; Piece Unique.

Cape Cod Tourbillon

Mechanical hand-wound Tourbillon movement Hermès Calibre H 8930 VMF
Tonneau-shaped, 29.3 x 23.6 mm (13 x 10.5 lignes) 5.5 mm thick
21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz)
7-day power reserve thanks to a series-coupled twin barrel
237 parts including 30 jewels
Hand-chamfered and polished bridges and mechanisms
Exclusive Hermès decorative motif (sprinkling of “H”s)
The Tourbillon consists of a 11.1 mm mobile cage that does two revolutions per minute. The escape-wheel pinion rotates around the fixed seconds’ wheel.

Arceau Squelette Sellier

Grand feu enamelled white gold cloisonné enamelled numerals
Blued 750 (18ct) white gold hands
Mechanical self-winding Hermès Calibre H 1928, skeleton-worked
25.6 mm in diameter (11.5 lignes); 3.5 mm thick
28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz)
55-hour power reserve; series-coupled twin barrel
200 parts including 32 jewels
Hand-chamfered and polished bridges and mechanisms
Hand engraving on the movement bridges evokes the braiding and saddle stitching performed by the Hermès leather artisans.

Conclusion:
We’re keeping a watch-ing brief on Hermès as we suspect that they are on the brink of good things for PuristS and watch lovers.