Baselworld/SIHH

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*** SIHH 2012: Jaeger-LeCoultre ***

JLC had a fair number of novelties spread across several collections. Unlike most other SIHH brands, it had a new headline complication in the form of the Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon. This has two key features – a multi-axis tourbillon and an instantaneous reset seconds hand.

The tourbillon here turns on two axes – the cage every 30 seconds turns on one axis that is co-axial with the balance and on a second axis below the cage inclined at 20 degrees. Like the Gyrotourbillon 2, the Spherotourbillon has a cylindrical hairspring as well.

This gives it a motion like a spinning top, a curious yet pleasing sight. As with any multi-axis tourbillon, the rationale behind this is better timekeeping in any position.

The other notable function of the Spherotourbillon is the seconds reset: the pusher at two o’clock sends the seconds hand back to 12 which then instantaneously restarts. This is meant to be used after adjusting the time to get a time setting accurate to the nearest second, more or less.

However, this is not a hack seconds like the Lange Cabaret tourbillon. Neither the tourbillon nor the seconds hand actually stop. Rather it’s an instantaneous reset seconds, like a flyback chronograph. As I understand it, the whole movement continues running when the second hand resets.

JLC explains the ‘dual wing’ concept of the Duometre – two barrels and gear trains – allows for the seconds reset function since the tourbillon regulator has its own gear train. But since this is a seconds reset, I wonder if twin gear trains are needed to achieve this. The same chronometric performance should be achievable with a single gear train, just like a chronograph with a vertical clutch.

Nevertheless I like the presentation of the Spherotourbillon. Like I said, the tourbillon is a joy to watch.

In addition to the time, the Spherotourbillon displays a second time zone at 12, beside the power reserve for the tourbillon. At five o’clock sits the power reserve indicator for the time.

The case is 42 mm, and available in rose gold or a limited edition of 75 in platinum. I prefer the warmth of the rose gold version, however. When I first saw the platinum in 2011 I found it lacking in charm.

The other new Duometre watch is the Quantieme Lunaire in a smaller, 40.5 mm rose gold case. In this watch one gear train is for the time and the other for the calendar and lightning seconds.

Though the proportions are obviously different from the larger version – same dial but thinner bezel and small lugs – this still looks good, compact and elegant. It has attractive grained silver dial and unlike its larger cousin there are no apertures on the dial showing the movement.

Three new models were added to the Master line – Master Control, Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche and Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon.

The tourbillon has a 40 mm rose gold case that stands 11.3 mm high. Inside is the cal. 982 tourbillon with automatic winding, a variant of the movement in the Master Tourbillon.

Presented last year in titanium, the Master Grande Tradition Minute Repeater is now available in rose gold. This is a chunky, 44 mm repeater with JLC’s square profile gong that is soldered to the crystal, which means it chimes loudly.

And the last new round watch covered here is a new AMVOX 5 World Chronograph LMP1 in blue and orange with a ceramic and titanium case. This was actually launched late last year in a limited edition of 250 pieces to commemorate the Aston Martin LMP1 race car.

Last year saw the launch of the Grande Reverso 1931, a large and slim Reverso modelled after the 1931 model that has sold well. Several new models in that case were unveiled this year.

The first is the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Skeleton. This is a skeleton Reverso in a white gold case with a blue enamel border around the movement on the front. Unusually for a skeleton watch of today, it is skeletonised in the traditional manner, meaning elaborate engraving and decoration, reminiscent of the Reverso Art Deco of several years ago. This is a limited edition of 50 pieces.

Also in the same is the Grande Reverso 1931 in white gold with a subtle silver grained dial. This watch is simple but striking, like the steel 1931 of last year was.

Last is the Grande Reverso Blue Enamel. This is in a slightly larger and thicker case than the 1931, measuring 48.5 mm by 30 mm. This 50 piece limited edition has a dial that is rich, translucent blue enamel over guilloche, with applied white gold numbers.

Also new is the rose gold Grande Reverso Calendar that displays day, date, month and moon. Regrettably I somehow missed taking photos of this.

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