Baselworld/SIHH

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*** SIHH 2012: Richard Mille ***

Richard Mille had a fairly small collection this year. At the very top of the range is the RM056 rattrapante chronograph with tourbillon – cased entirely in sapphire.

The RM056 uses the new RMCC1 movement, which is a significantly improved version of the calibre in the RM008, the RM flagship complication for some time. Amongst other changes the new calibre has skeletonised titanium baseplate which contributed to the 20% drop in weight of the movement. And the movement also have a variable inertia balance wheel.

This limited edition of five pieces, which apparently retails for CHF1.5 million, is impressive in that sapphire is hard and machining the complex shape of the RM case must have been difficult. Even though it is technically impressive it is visually unimpressive for it really looks like a clear plastic watch. But I know there are five wealthy individuals who think this is ultra cool because it is novel and also expensive.

That same RMCC1 is also found in the new RM050 Competition Chronograph Felipe Massa which is housed in a carbon nanotube composite case. The case is lightweight and a flat black, the classic RM formula of a dark coloured and ultra-light case.

The black with its simple lines actually draw one into the movement, which is visible both front and back.

The RM050 is limited to 10 pieces.

The next watch is the techno-goth RM052 skull tourbillon. Here the skull is essentially the baseplate of the movement. In between the teeth is the tourbillon, while the barrel is behind the forehead.

And the titanium case is semi-skeletonised (I don’t know if RM intended that to be a pun). The buyer has the option of customising the skull, adding precious stones for instance. Perhaps Damien Hirst will commission one with a diamond pave skull.

Another new tourbillon is the RM057 Jackie Chan, limited to 36 pieces. A dragon encircles the dial while the case is sandblasted rose gold giving it a delicate but attractive look.

RM typically creates handsome timepieces. In the case of the RM053 “Pablo MacDonough” that is not true. Perhaps the design is a result of function – it was made to withstand the rigours of a polo match; Mr MacDonough is a pro polo player.

The case of the RM053 is titanium and the cover on the front that resembles something rude is made from titanium carbide, an extremely hard ceramic.

Notwithstanding the design, the movement is interesting. It is a compact manual wind calibre mounted at an angle to the case by a shock absorbing bracket.

That because the two dials for the time are positioned at an angle, as in a driver’s watch. The left dial has the constant seconds while the right shows the time.

Also new for 2012 is the RM037, an elongated tonneau watch with the new calibre CRMA1. This movement is atypical because it has no stem. Instead the pusher at four is used to change the crown functions; there is no need to pull out the crown. That is to avoid a wearer accidentally and forcefully ripping out the crown. The pusher at 10 advances the large date.

This is also a new case style for RM, which I’m not too keen on. It lacks the punch of other RM cases. Measuring 52.20 mm by 34.40 mm, it looks feminine, especially with the narrow strap, though it is large enough for a man.

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