Baselworld/SIHH

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*** SIHH 2012: Ralph Lauren ***

Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewellery Co. is an interesting entity. The brand is most commonly associated with clothing that isn’t that expensive but its watches are expensive. So the brand perception doesn’t quite equal its price. Yet the watches are actually quite good, with respectable movements and quality components. For the most part RL watches are on par with the companies that supply them movements.

Quality aside, what struck me about Ralph Lauren watches is that they are well designed. Even if the look is derivative – and many of them are – they do look good. The proportions, shapes and styling are good. I don’t like some of the designs but I still wouldn’t call them ugly. Whoever designed them has a good eye.

I am told Ralph Lauren himself is deeply involved with the design of the watch collection. If true the designs reflect the fact that he is a good designer. And if Mr Lauren isn’t that involved, RL has a good design team somewhere. The fact is that an ugly watch from a credible watchmaker is more respected than a credible watch from a clothing brand.

The 2012 novelties are all extensions to existing lines, rather than entirely new models. The first is the Slim Classique 867 in a square, 32 mm case. This is named after the brand’s flagship store at 867 Madison Avenue in Manhattan.

It is a tasteful Art Deco watch with the ultra-thin Piaget 430P movement. Cases are rose or white gold, with the option of diamonds. Note the black resin bezel border on the white gold and diamond version – a minor but striking detail.

The equestrian Stirrup watch is now available as a large size chronograph with a white strap. Inside is the automatic JLC cal. 750.

And the medium and small Stirrup watches now have the option of a black dial. The medium has a Piaget automatic movement while the small size has a Cartier quartz calibre.

The third Ralph Lauren collection is the Sporting. My favourite watch of all the brand’s offerings is the Automotive watch, which has a burl wood dial inspired by the dash of Bugatti 57SC Atlantic owned by Ralph Lauren. This has a 44.8 mm case and the IWC FA Jones movement. I think it looks outstanding.

Previously only available with a leather strap, it is now available on a steel bracelet, which doesn’t look as a good as the strap I might add.

Also automotive inspired is the JLC cal. 750-powered Sporting Chronograph with a black ceramic case and bracelet. The centre link of the bracelet is coated in bright red or yellow rubber, like a racing stripe on a car. That stripe overwhelms the entire watch unfortunately, so all you really see is the vivid stripe.

The last watch is the Safari chronograph. This is available in a 39 mm or 44.8 mm case that is distinguished by its an unusual aged gunmetal finish paired with an aged canvas strap.

Though I don’t like the Roman numeral dial, the execution of this watch – the aged case and strap – is very well done. There’s something about this particular combination that works.

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