Baselworld/SIHH

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*** SIHH 2012: Vacheron Constantin ***

Compared to previous years, Vacheron Constantin had a noticeably smaller collection. The big news was the new Malte collection, the launch of which marks the centenary of the first tonneau watch from VC.

Four new models make up the redesigned Malte. At the top is the Malte Tourbillon. The case is pink gold, measuring 38.00 mm by 48.24 mm, and inside is the newly developed cal. 2795.

VC movements, especially at the top end, tend to be not only beautifully finished, but also wonderfully designed in bridge shape and layout. This is no exception. I’m not a fan of the new Malte case and shape, but this movement is outstanding.

Next is the Malte 100^th Anniversary, a 100 piece limited edition in platinum with the cal. 4400 movement. The case is 36.70 mm by 47.61 mm.

Almost identical is the Malte Small Seconds in rose gold. As the name implies this has a seconds hand, but otherwise has the same cal. 4400 as the 100^th Anniversary as well as the same case dimensions.

The last is the Malte Lady with a quartz movement that I don’t have photos of.

Another example of a beautifully designed movement is the new Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon. This uses the new cal. 2260 with achieves the two week power reserve thanks to two pairs of stacked barrels (four barrels in total). Naturally the finish is excellent.

The rose gold case is 42 mm wide and 12.2 mm thick but the watch still feels elegant enough. I do find the off-centre dial a bit peculiar though. Strangely enough VC tends to design classically styled movements with much more modern dials.

Last year saw the launch of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Chronograph as a boutique exclusive. This year a rose gold version with an smart grey dial will be available at all retailers.

Three models similar to the Dove watch made for Only Watch 2011 make their debut this year. Part of the Métiers d’Art line, each of the them features all four traditional decorative arts of enamelling, engraving, gemsetting and guilloche. This trio is named ‘Les Univers Infinis’, because the dial motifs are MC Escher-inspired tessellations. Each is limited to 20 pieces with a white gold case. And fortunately there is no tessellated dragon watch.

The first is the Dove Watch, which sorry to say has exactly the same motif as the Only Watch piece unique, which is not so unique after all. Unlike the striking red of the Only Watch version, this Dove Watch has much more muted tones.

More vibrant is the Fish Watch. The fish tessellation is done in blues and greys, resulting in a soothing and almost hypnotic motif. This is my favourite of the trio.

Third is the Shell Watch. This has a much more complex motif than the other two, with starfish, seashells, sand and waves depicted. The starfish also seem like they are dancing; it is quite a compelling sight.

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