Audemars Piguet

Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin pink gold

One of Audemars Piguet's newest watches from SIHH 2014 that we have not discussed much is the Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin in 18-carat pink gold. I was fortunate enough to handle this new Royal Oak recently and it is astounding. Let's have a closer look at this watch, AP reference number 15204OR.OO.1240OR.01.

You will recall of course that 2012 marked the 40th anniversary of the iconic Royal Oak. To commemorate the significant event, AP launched a few special editions in addition to the other "new" Royal Oaks that we are now accustomed to. One of those limited versions was a 40 piece platinum cased openworked watch. Here is a great photo of that piece from Fx:

In January of this year, Audemars Piguet launched an unlimited version with the same openworked movement in an 18-carat pink gold case. Of course, we can anticipate that this watch will be made in extremely small quantities, so while technically not capped at a certain number, I expect it will remain rare.

Needless to say, the pink gold really contrasts well with the grey colored movement, which AP refers to as having a "galvanic anthracite treatment". The famous Royal Oak case becomes a wonderful frame for a very artistic movement.

And in turn, the openworked center provides additional emphasis on the octagonal case.

From the side, you can really discern the flowing form of the grey "dial" area, which sits level with the outer time ring.

We do not see through this watch as much as some other openworked pieces. This attribute is significant, and I'll come back to it shortly. The date disc is transparent, and rotates through the window at 3:00 for reading.

The movement is the Calibre 5122, a skeletonized version of the famous Calibre 2121. The movement thickness is a mere 3.05mm!

The gold rotor is the same as used on the current 15202 Royal Oak Extra-Thin.

On the wrist... wow, what can be said? This watch is amazing.

I am a very big fan of the popular Royal Oak 15305 Openworked watch, but I have always had one hesitation about it. That watch is quite a bit more open than this extra-thin version, and consequently you see through to the wrist more. Many will not have an issue with this trait, but personally, I like to look at my watch and not through it. So the opaque quality of this reference 15204 suits my tastes much more. Also, the openworked design is a bit more contemporary and less industrial than the 15305.

Of course, this is a very expensive timepiece. But I really feel it is worth it. My visit to the boutique was primarily related to reporting on the 42mm Royal Oak Offshore collection, which we have done extensively. But the single AP that stole my heart during my time was this exceptional Royal Oak. Previously, I would not have considered wearing a colored gold bracelet watch. The 18-carat pink gold Openworked Extra-Thin has fully changed my mind, and if I can ever afford it, I will own this watch.

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Great Review and Pics..

By: SALMANPK : June 9th, 2014-09:40

Like yourself I also love this watch, its so elegant and well finished. S

Thanks Salman for your comments.

By: MichaelC : June 9th, 2014-09:56

Well stated!

Just to confirm..

By: SALMANPK : June 9th, 2014-10:56

the case size is 40mm yes?

AP lists the case as 39mm wide.

By: MichaelC : June 9th, 2014-11:17

8.04mm thick.

Thanks Michael, perfect proportions nt

By: SALMANPK : June 9th, 2014-11:57

I stil have the stainless steel former model, and prefer its 40 mm case.

By: amanico : June 9th, 2014-10:33

But I agree that a skeleton Royal Oak is something to see! Thanks for the nice report, my friend. Best, Nicolas

Part of what is so alluring to me

By: MichaelC : June 9th, 2014-11:19

is the openworked movement inside the case I am so familiar with.

PS, Wasn't it 39 mm case, rather than 40?

By: amanico : June 9th, 2014-11:19

Yes, I listed this above in my reply.

By: MichaelC : June 9th, 2014-11:21

For a moment I thought I accidentally listed it as 40mm. Thanks, Nicolas.

i have to agree with Nico...

By: gensiulia : June 9th, 2014-11:51

...but date wheel is really something! awesome watch. best, chris

Thoughts on AP skeleton watches...

By: moc : June 9th, 2014-15:32

Being a previous owner of the 15305 ,current owner of the qp skeleton and great admirer of ap openwork/ skeleton watches,I must say that I admire the diversity of each reference. In this case the platinum version did not capture me much,I found for once, ...

Appreciate your input Mo.

By: MichaelC : June 11th, 2014-09:30

You state it correctly, the skeletal 2121 is much more dense than the 3120. In this regard, "openworked" probably applies better to the 15305. And that is what I prefer about the 2121 - it is more opaque and not see through. I do see its shapes as more co...

Nothing better than a RG Royal Oak with the awesome AP bracelet.

By: JerryW : June 9th, 2014-21:35

The openworked adds a bit more intrigue, just more going on than the 15202. Thanks for the review MichaelC. JerryW

Thanks Jerry. I knew you would approve ;-)

By: MichaelC : June 11th, 2014-09:31

Hope all is well your way.

Looks good on your wrist Michael!

By: emijar3 : June 11th, 2014-10:16

Thanks for the pics!

My pleasure to share.

By: MichaelC : June 11th, 2014-13:19

I was fortunate enough to see it in person and wanted to share my thoughts with everyone here.

Wonderful sharing, Michael...

By: orangedial : June 11th, 2014-11:03

" and if I can ever afford it, I will own this watch." My exact sentiment :) Thanks for this post!

Hi Wayne, thanks for checking out the article.

By: MichaelC : June 11th, 2014-13:20

Perhaps you have seen it in person as well, definitely a special watch. Hope all is well your way Friend.

Great review and pics

By: ED209 : June 12th, 2014-22:17

Great review and pics of the openworked extra-thin. Looks great in pink gold. You bring up an interesting point about the skeletonized work and how it is not as see-through as other versions. I can't wait to see this one hopefully soon. Regards, ED-209

It might be a minor detail for most.

By: MichaelC : June 13th, 2014-08:54

But for me, I prefer not to see much of my wrist through the watch. Thanks for reading the article ED209!