Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
7136
The Academy Collection
Christophe Colomb Equation of Time
A watch that at first was presented to us by Mr Nataf, in a - please excuse! - rather horrendous case design. That design we guess was in part responsible for the initial rejection of this watch by a large group of watch connoisseurs, and thus did the watch a disservice:
The concept however bears a lot of horological thinking. Starting with the tourbillon, which aims to correct for impacts of gravity in a vertical position of the watch (read: escapement), the Zenith solution seeks to avoid it at all positions of the watch (by ensuring that the escapement is always in its least vulnerable, i.e. horizontal, position.
Zenith achieved this by recollecting its own history in marine chronometer. Such desk watches feature a gimbals system that ensure that the entire movement is always in a horizontal position.
Zenith adapted it such that solely the escapement is gimballed, in terms of watchmaking an amazing feat, just consider the flow of energy that has to be ensured, regardless of whether the watch is static or moved heavily:
After Mr Nataf resigned and Mr Dufour took over the helm, the movement was further developed and finally presented in a much more acceptable, classical form: the Christophe Colomb watch was born.
This year the Christophe Colomb gained an Equation of Time complication that again is well designed and balanced by the power reserve indication on the right:
Besides the obvious technical merits the also looks quite restrained and elegant: Chapeau to Zenith for designing a formidable 45mm case for an otherwise outstanding watch!
The escapement, beating at 36,000 vph, is always the centre of attention, however you like to look at it (quite frustrating btw as you never can see the back side of the escapement cage!):
On the back you can admire the finely finished movement with the equation disc at 1 o’clock:
So the one million dollar question certainly is: how does it wear? The answer has two sides: optically and dimensionally the Christophe Colomb is surprisingly wearable for both smaller and medium sized wrists:
The difference however is when it comes to the backside! Here the bubble matters! It wears only then comfortably if it fits between radius and ulna of your forehand. Which it did in Magnus’ case…
… but not in Oliver’s (you can’t see it but it’s a good excuse to show more pics anyway;-)):
So, this watch is a rare example where actual trying and wearing the watch is essential for two reasons: for aesthetics and comfort!
Baselworld 2012 - Official PuristSPro Report: Zenith
[ Note: due to an exhausted batterie our main 'horological' camera was defunct, thus we had to rely on a compact camera. For 'better' picture please take a look at François-Xavier's report ! Apologies from our side!] Zenith was one of the most anticipated...
The Pilot Collection
The focus of Zenith’s offerings this year were perfectly clear even to the least sensitive and uninitiated person once the booth was entered: The company reconsidered its rich history in aviation timekeeping which encompassed board instruments like altime...
100% convinced !
Thanks for this post Magnus! I want need that Montre d'Aéronef type 20. The case, dial, hands the look perfect. The movement? No discussion, that IS perfect. The size,? Big but who cares ? But the Pilot big date and the Doublematic are amzing pieces too. ...
+1 to that Bruno
Dear Oliver and Magnus thank you for another great report.. definitely worth waiting for Best Damjan
I applaud...
...the audacity of the revisited Type 20, but much like the Panerai Egiziano, cannot imagine wearing one! I do like the new pilot chrono, but wish Zenith would've omitted the big date. Still, it is attractive -- and wearable at 42mm! I'm loving your write...
The El Primero Collection
Espada The El Primero family gets a new addition with the introduction of the time-only El primero calibre 4650 B. Essentially it’s the famous calibre stripped of its chronograph mechanism – just like the ETA Valgranges movement is to the Valj...
The Captain Collection
Chronograph The legacy Zenith watch with a lot of design cues taken from the past. We were shown a 42mm El Primero chronograph in red gold with an appealing frappé ‘dial (egg-shell’-like in both colour and surface): An easy watch to wear, well proportione...
the egg-shell like dial is awesome
must see it irl I think I'll have to cancel a Panerai .... Zenith is imo more interesting this year
The Ladies Collection
For the female audience Zenith offers two new watches in a cushion-shaped case with either a moon phase (Elite-based) or a chronograph (El Primero-based) complication: The dial diameter is almost as large as the outer dimensions of the case, leaving four ...
The Academy Collection
Christophe Colomb Equation of Time A watch that at first was presented to us by Mr Nataf, in a - please excuse! - rather horrendous case design. That design we guess was in part responsible for the initial rejection of this watch by a large group of watch...
I had the good fortune to put on wrist the bubble tourbillon
at the Zenith boutique in HK (causeway bay I think it was) and while it is not for me, it is very very interesting and surprisingly, not uncomfortable to wear.
Are we not lucky that you are like chalk and cheese?
Dear chaps, Since you have such diametrically challenged wrists, perhaps all wrist reviews should be on the Oli-Mag wrists? To assess the aesthetics and comfort.......... Regards, MTF
We are happy to deposit our addresses...
for the upcoming truckloads of watches that will arrive at our doorsteps. We are also accepting the immense burden that comes with it ;-) Cheers, Magnus
Our Conclusion!
The “crazy” days are over and Zenith bethinks its own roots. Zenith is back and the wide range (classical basics … sophisticated complications) looks like they are ready to attack Omega, IWC, JLC, Blancpain etc. Like in the past they offer serious watchma...
Thanks for the detailed report and the fine pics.
In what way are the hands flawed? And what was wrong with the subdial design of the Captain Chrono? Is the large seconds hand on the Doublematic running seconds or for the chrono? So to be able to tell the time somewhere you have to turn the crowns every ...
Some answers...
1. ) Captain chrono - as we have written in the watch's description the dial has a logical flaw: "subdials for permanent seconds and chronograph hour counter same design, chronograph minute counter different – did the designer work on Piguet 1185 movement...
Small error on your behalf ...
On the Captin chrono, it is indeed the minute counter that has the same design as the permanent second, while the hour counter is different. Please note, this is not the Piguet, which has the permanent second at 6. The Captain design makes sense, since cl...
Thanks for the clarification
I really couldn't see the logical flaw that Magnus was seeing. The Captain Chrono has the same subdial layout as every other EP. The complain then was that the hour counter doesn't have a ring around it? Like Marcus says, that was probably to give it a ce...
Its still wrong in my book...
ok, I mixed up the hour and the minute counter of the chronograph (thanks Marcus for pointing this out), but that does not change anything substantially regarding the point we wanted to make. The criticism is more conceptual, because the function and desi...
Not an easy change though
I wouldn't call it a design error on Zenith's part. It's very logical- a matter of function. The EPs development follows from pocketwatches, hence the running seconds is opposite the crown and not at an angle as with later movements (JLC/AP/VC/BP). I forg...
Rick, ...
where did I ask to relocate the counters and subdials? I also was not criticising that the different subdials are located where they are. I was just saying that the design of the subdials does not match their function and thus is inconsistent and lacks lo...
Thanks
So the Doublematic doesn't have a running seconds, right? After reading your description, the Doublematic seems far less practical than I thought. The hour hand represents time at your site of departure. To tell time at some time zone you are travelling i...
Great job!
Thank you for the detailed report and excellent photographs! The only discrepancy has already been addressed by Marcus, that is, the El Primero has the hour subdial at "6" while the FP1185 has the seconds subdial (continuous running) at the same position....
Many thanks for another great report, Magnus and Oliver
I saw most news at the after-Geneva-Basel exhibition at Türler in Zürich - except the Montre d´ Aéronef Type 20 and the Christoph Colomb. The doublematic offers a very desirable combination of functions, but the dial layout didnt win m...
Excellent reportage
Thorough, well-organized and with intelligent discussion. Gentlemen, this is head & shoulders above anything available on the 'net to date. Thank you.
The zenith of purists' report
Thanks Oliver and Magnus for the report that I finally finished reading this week. Yes - it took that long! In the last 3 years, Zenith has changed towards another zenith in their history, we hope. Regards, MTF