Ornatus-Mundi[Zenith]
7136
Our Conclusion!
Apr 14, 2012,10:51 AM
The “crazy” days are over and Zenith bethinks its own roots. Zenith is back and the wide range (classical basics … sophisticated complications) looks like they are ready to attack Omega, IWC, JLC, Blancpain etc. Like in the past they offer serious watchmaking and very good value for the money. On top it feels like someone has a clear vision for the future and makes his homework properly.
Magnus
Overall, Zenith is on a path that is easily understandable. They went away from the ‘rapper’ type of watch under Thierry Nataf, and concentrated on their watchmaking history (which includes their design cues from the rich past of the company).
Although broadly condemned, I am nevertheless sure that the Nataf intermezzo was necessary (or at least useful) in terms of creating a much needed awareness for the company, and I am guess they still benefit from this. In a way it laid the foundation of the appreciation Zenith enjoys these days.
In terms of the current novelties I was of course eagerly anticipating finally getting my hands on the new Montre d´ Aéronef Type 20 – and it did not disappoint. It’s an exceptional watch that really looks, feels and sounds like a true chronometer. It has a rare sensual quality in it that I have not experienced elsewhere before. I would say there is no comparable watch in the market that has the same marvellous blend of attributes than this one!
A very holistic approach to create a technical watch – applause from my side!
A second very positive surprise was the Christophe Colomb. A marvel of watchmaking engineering packed in an elegant and unassuming case. Such are rare sight today where the designs scream loudly about their (postulated?!) horological content.
Being subjected to business travels frequently I also appreciate the Doublematic for both its technical as well as aesthetical versatility. It makes a fine travel watch that would fit in many scenarios and could well be the only watch you need to take with you. I would even more appreciate it if (i) there would be a power reserve indicator for the going train and (ii) a strap option for hot & humid climates. I also like that the main information is relatively readable.
The ladies watches would benefit from a bit more ‘Zenith’ footprint in the design. They look a bit derivative (like many ladies watches on the market: one wonders whether they all hired the same designed ;-)) which is a pity considering that they are bona fide manufacture watches!
For the remainder of the new watches – solid watchmaking, interesting entry points with horological significance at reasonable prices: quite rare these days!
Oliver
My favourites are the “simple” Elite watches, because of the classical look with a twist and the affordability. Next is the Captain Chronograph with all his classical details and the horologically interesting movement. It is a strong competitor in that field of watches – classical “everyday” chronographs with horological demand. The egg-shell structure is something I like a lot.
The Montre d´ Aéronef Type 20 is an interesting collector’s piece if it fits to the theme of your collection, but only in titanium.
Pilot Big Date Special – everything is nice and well done, but where is the big date? Leave it away or make it bigger, to be a real big date.
Pilot Doublematic – a very interesting watch and for sure a strong competitor in the market of travel watches if someone is fine with 45mm watches.
Most watches of the collection are “affordable” - something which is not common these days. Their products are not perfect (from my point of view) and show little “flaws”, like the hands, but we talk about a “high-level point of criticism”. In the past it was the date window and now the hands, even here continuity ;-) Nonetheless it was a pleasure to see the collection of 2012 and the latest developments. Could imagine an even stronger Basel 2013, 2014 …
Magnus & Oliver