Tick Talk
[Moderator Emeritus]
2364
Vintage Buckles
Vintage buckles and bands makes a great sub-topic! As these are considered replaceable items, it doesn't diminish the value of a vintage watch to have modern straps or buckles of equivalent quality or, most preferred, from the original supplier if they are still in business. To borrow from the automotive trade, OE means Original Equipment and refers to a part as provided when the item was new. OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer and refers to an aftermarket part as used by the factory. OE and OEM straps and buckles can add to the value and, if you are inclined to authenticity, are the best way to go IMHO. Here are a few examples of what is available to the collector:
From left to right:
OE 18k modern RG 16mm; reproduction 18k YG 14mm, OE 18k 1970's YG 14mm, OEM 1960's 18k WG 14mm, OEM 1950's PG plated 14mm, reproduction 14k PG 1940's.
You will notice that vintage buckle sizes are smaller than modern styles. A typical "vintage taper" was 19, 18 or 17mm at the lugs down to 14mm at the buckle. This perfectly complimented the smaller case sizes of vintage watches!
Metal bands were also widely available as aftermarket items during the 1950's and 60's. Strap quality wasn't as good as today while local goldsmithing was still a vibrant industry. Gay Freres was a well-known OE supplier to the Swiss watch industry and OEM supplier of aftermarket bands. Here is an example of a 1960's custom V&C band in 18k PG with middle eastern hallmarks which was made for a Ref. 6394 wrist watch:
1940s or 50s???
Hi, it looks like a cal. 453 movement
1940s or 1950s
That's a totally personal preference and up to you