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Ultra-Thin or Mercator ?
Which of these two wonderful Vacheron Constantin watches appeals to you the most?
- Historiques Ultra-Thin 1955 in rose gold, ref. 33155/000R-9588 with hand-wound caliber 1003. Dimensions: 36 x 4.13 mm
- Mercator in yellow gold ref. 43050 with a solid gold dial representing a map of Europa, Africa, Asia & Terra Australis. The watch is powered by automatic caliber 1120/2. Dimensions: 36 x 8.5 mm
I personally prefer the Ultra-Thin because of its hand-wound caliber 1003 and its incredible fit on the wrist.
credit: @penny_watch_seoul
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Ultra-Thin or Mercator ?
Which of these two wonderful Vacheron Constantin watches appeals to you the most ? Historiques Ultra-Thin 1955 in rose gold , ref. 33155/000R-9588 with hand-wound caliber 1003 . Dimensions: 36 x 4.13 mm Mercator in yellow gold ref. 43050 with a solid gold...
Even if the 1120 is a great movement,
I wish the Mercator had a hand-wound movement (or at least a beautiful rotor). Best, Emmanuel
The movement of the 1955 is tiny...
...the movement of the Mercator fits well. And at 8.5mm the watch is more than thin enough...
Tiny but gorgeous. The presence in real life is simply stunning.
It feels premium, not at all tiny. Whereas the rotor of the Mercator doesn't feel to be up to the level of the dial and case, imo.
Mercator
I like the finishing on the thin but movement too small. The unique dial time indicator and dial patterns push Mercator over the edge. I like the strap here too.
I definitely understand your preference.
I just wish the Mercator had a hand-wound movement or at least a beautiful rotor. Best, Emmanuel
Mercator for me, mon ami!
My only concern would be the reliability of the movement, as I have heard stories. Ultra thin would find it hard to compete with Credor Eichi II and the coming Lange Ultra thin Onyx in my set.
Credor Eichi II and Lange Saxonia Thin Onyx: You're pulling out all the stops!
It's difficult to compete under these conditions. But the VC Ultra-Thin is still a truly beautiful piece (at least for me). Best, Emmanuel
As everyone seems to prefer the Mercator,
I'll have no problem picking the Ultra-Thin: I take it as very good news! ;-) Best, Emmanuel
Of these 2 - definitely Mercator
As it is interesting and unique. At the same time, imho, Mercator and many other interesting-dial VCs from that period have uninspiring backs, unfortunately.
I owned the Mercator Americas, in platinum, but that pedestrian rotor didn’t do justice to the dial and movement!
VC could’ve used the rotor of the Saltarello and then it would’ve been perfect! I guess another case for “perfection doesn’t exist”…
1000% Ultra Thin!!! Elegant. Versatile.
Timeless. Wears amazingly well. A real horological feat so make it so thin. Hand wound. Most go for uniqueness of Mercator but Ultra thin is timeless. One of my all time favorites. Think again!
I like so much what you say!
I really feel the same way. Have a great weekend. Best, Emmanuel
I am dwelling on buying this VC model
and also thinking about the 81180/000R-9159, which is a little bigger (40 mm) but perhaps more modern. If you had none of the two and would have to choose one of them as a keeper can I ask you which one would be your choice? Thanks and bon weekend. Pelle
I have tried both on and the 81180 felt too big on my 16 cm wrist. Also, it didn't feel very special or attractive to me.
Whereas I've been quite close to buying the 33155, which feels incredible on the wrist and which has such a beautiful movement. So, between the two, my personal choice would be the Ultra-Thin 1955, without the slightest hesitation. To be perfectly honest ...
Oh man I LOVE the indexes!
Not very common and flat and elegant like the entire presentation. More harmonious and in keeping with the overall design in my opinion.
These indexes are very special and I understand your love of them.
But it’s personally the only detail which I didn’t fully respond to. Just my taste of course. Also I would be very interested in seeing the blue indexes of the platinum variant.
Super post as always Emmanuel!
I really like the way you always bring both facts and your feeling into your post - highly appreciated. Between just the two of us,(!) when I discussed these two watches with a top technical guy at VC I thought (I can't put my finger on his exact words) I...
Thank you so much, Pelle.
Here’s a photo of caliber 1400 which equips the 40mm Patrimony. It looks very good but you don’t get to see it because of the solid case back. And I can imagine indeed that the thinness of caliber 1003 makes it a little more fragile. Also the crown is ver...
Historiques Ultra-Thin 1955 in any of the metals over virtually anything else the Platinum version being the ultimate watch for me.
Not only does this watch have one of my favourite Ultra Thin movements it is also a real Ultra Thin watch in every sense of the words and IMHO is just stunning and would be a pleasure on the wrist that in Platinum I would forsake all others for. In case I...
I'm so glad you feel that way, Marc, and I can understand your feeling so well.
As I wrote just above to Pelle, I've been close to buying this watch in rose gold (I've never seen the platinum variant yet). However, there's one thing I'm not completely fond of concerning the 33155: the indexes, which are neither applied nor painted. M...
The Mercator.
I will get one eventually unless some form of force majeure intervenes.... 😍♥️😍
Mercator is a dream watch...
...one of the few watches where I don't mind having to work a bit to know the time. People rightly praise the dials, but the case is gorgeous and the movement is great...
It's one of VC's icon and great achievement, no doubt about it.
But the 33155 still has my personal preference.
While I am a huge fan of the 1955…
When it comes to this comparison, the Mercator wins hands down for me 😊🤷🏻♂️
Interesting! I understand this preference of course,
but I like the 1955 or your 1972 way more. Best, Emmanuel
The Mercator
There are watches that are similar to the Ultra Thin, but the Mercator stands out of the croud. Especially in its own era when there not so many independents seeking their unique selling points.
You have a point here.
Still, I personally prefer the UT. But, once again, you really have a point! Best, Emmanuel