Vacheron Constantin

There was this question form user 'LX' about this extraordinary watch:

“...Who of you can tell me a bit more about the below Vacheron Constantin watch from around 1933?...”

It is a Vacheron & Constantin ref 3388 from 1933.

I initially reffered to Alex's article 'Vacheron Constantin and the Tonneau 100 Years of Creativity Part 2' from 2012 published at www.thehourlounge.com, since he had access to the V&C archives at that time and was known as a trustable source.

Therefore the indication of the year and the reference number. Vacheron & Constantin, 1933, ref 3388.

This fact is also confirmed by one second source, the book of Lambelet and Coen 'The World of Vacheron Constantine Genève'.

The case design is using a Taubert & Fils patent to achieve dust an water resistance to a certain degree.

For reference on the Taubert & Fils patent question David Boettcher is certainly a good and trustable source.

He holds a degree in Engineering Science from the University of Bath, is a Chartered Engineer, a member of the Institute of Engineering and Technology, and a registered European Engineer. He is therefore a qualified and scientifically trained source, and by the way also on other watch related topics - not only the allproof cases.

The source for the results of David's research is his website www.vintagewatchstraps.com , or his articles available via www.nawcc.org .

It is obvious that the patented screw bezel and back system was used - but this still says nothing about the used material or even the manufacturer of the case.

The differences in the watch case materials, stainless steel or gold, are, of course, the main question.

There is one further source which described the example as follows:

Antiquorum N°128 - 13 novembre 1994 - Lot N°134

"Vacheron & Constantin, Genève, No. 397862, case No. 258659, sold to Mr. F. de Groot on 20 July 1933.

Very fine and extremely rare, early, waterproof, center second, tonneau shaped, 18ct gold gentleman's wristwatch.

C(ase). massive, polished, decagonal bezel, screwed back, lapidated band.

D(ial). white enamel (slightly chipped) with painted indexes. «Moderne» gold bands.

M(ovement). 12 1/2''' rhodiumed, 18 jewels, lever escapement, cut bimetallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, Breguet balance-spring.

Dial, case and movement signed. In very good condition.

Dim. 32 x 39 mm.

... It does not appear in the Registers that any other watch of this kind, bearing screwed bezel and back was ever made."

Source: The book 'The Art of Vacheron Constantin' by Antiquorum Editions, 1994 (and www.lacotedesmontres.com but incomplete)

And the watch was even two times for auction.

Check this source www.antiquorum.swiss...

So nothing 'obscure' about this watch at all. The only obscure is, it was not sold initially.

The insight for the aficionados:

I would recommend to get on highly alert if you encounter a steel version.

If the cautious collector might still has doubts. The watch was in the Antiquorum auction in Geneva on 13th of November 1994.

It is well known this auction was held by Antiquorum in cooperation with Vacheron & Constantin. Any of the watches in this auction came with certificates from the Vacheron Archives.

The description of the Ref 3388 included "It does not appear in the Registers that any other watch of this kind, bearing screwed bezel and back was ever made." Source: The book 'The Art of Vacheron Constantin' by Antiquorum Editions, 1994.

Watches of the Ref 3388 with Steel and Gold cases on sale at Vacheron & Constantin in 1933 would mean, Antiquorum and Vacheron were wrong at the time of the auction – a possible answer – the difference between an 'one of' or a 'batch of watches'?

This would have been not exactly a small mistake.

My lasting insight for the aficionados,

I would recommend to get on highly alert if you encounter a steel version.

It is known that very similar steel cases were sold by Taubert to some other manufactures like Longines. It would be easy to create a steel version by using the Longines steel case and mixing it with some Vacheron movement and dial. So if you encounter a steel version, my suggestion would be, to send it yourself to Vacheron for a full authenticity check. Do not trust the dealer or expert, also not with the paper work.

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