Vacheron Constantin

Nostalgic Review: Vacheron Constantin's Malte Tourbillon

 

In the late 1990’s it became imperative that Vacheron Constantin develop the ability to design and manufacture movements on its own. Toward this end, in 1998 VC purchased a small company operating in the Vallee de Joux called HDG (Haute de Gamme) which had been making complication modules for Vacheron Constantin an other brands, and also had the technical capability to design and manufacture movements. It was only fitting that the inaugural watch to use a true manufacture movement make a bold statement. In 2000 Vacheron Constantin lauched the Malte Tourbillon Tonneau as the cornerstone of the new Malte collection.

Much to Vacheron Constantin’s credit it designed the movement to have the same tonneau shape as the case. The manual winding caliber 1790 has a diameter of 26.9 x 28.5 mm, is 6.1 mm in height, and beats at 18,000 VPH with a power reserve of 45 hours. In addition to the tourbillon, the movement features a power reserve display and a pointer date, respectively placed at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock. The date can be adjusted quickly with a corrector botton on the side of the case. The tourbillon carriage, which incorporates Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese Cross emblem, is a brilliant and artistic design that also showcases the talents of the finishers who must create the crisp interior angles at the points of the cross.


The open case back reveals more interior angles that are there because they are beautiful, not because they need to be! The Geneva waves, beveled countersinks, and polished and beveled screw heads are all perfectly executed.


Like all Malte models, the case (36 x 48 x 11.8 mm) is defined by the flared and stepped lugs. The swordblade hands are also characteristic of the Malte design.


The standard production watch was offered in either rose gold or platinum, however, there were a few limited editions that are notable. Vacheron Constantin contributed a unique model to the Only Watch charity auction in 2005. This watch had a stainless steel case, salmon dial, and ruthenium, rather than rhodium, finishing on the movement:


The reprise for the Only Watch auction in 2007 incorporated the design cues of the Excellence Platine watches, which came out in 2006. This watch has a platinum case, platinum dial, platinum tourbillon bridge (which proved horribly difficult to finish and will NEVER be repeated again), and even platinum thread in the strap:


The Singapore market was treated to a very limited edition of 3 “Black Nickel” Malte Tourbillon watches:


And the American market got a similar look in 2008 with the Palladium Malte Tourbillon, limited edition of 10 watches:


The current catalog only offers the original Malte Tourbillon in skeleton form. The newer, larger Malte Tourbillon Regulator, introducted in 2007, using the variant 1790R caliber, is the featured tourbillon in Vacheron Constantin’s production. While this latter watch is well adapted to contemporary tastes with its large case, I have never been able to warm up to the regulator style layout, and so I have a nostalgic place in my heart for the original Malte Tourbillon in all its variations.

Bill