Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Chronographs
Complications

Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Chronographs

By WHL · Mar 27, 2012 · 10 replies
WHL
WPS member · Vacheron Constantin forum
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WHL's comprehensive overview of Vacheron Constantin's Perpetual Calendar Chronographs traces the brand's journey in this complex complication, comparing it to other 'Big Three' watchmakers. The article highlights key models from the Malte and Patrimony Traditionnelle collections, offering insights into their design evolution, movement, and case dimensions. This piece serves as an excellent reference for understanding VC's contributions to high horology.

Vacheron Constantin has long been considered one of the “Big Three” watchmakers along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Each brand has been expertly creating timepieces of the highest order for over a century. When I collected vintage watches my tastes in horological appreciation have always been most sated by the models of Vacheron Constantin, which, more so than with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, have a flair for the bold, especially in regards to case, lug, and dial design

When it comes to the chronographs I would always choose a Vacheron Constantin 4178 with its tear drop lugs and square button pushers, or the ultra-rare 6087, with its “cornes de vache” lugs, round button pushers, and screwed-down case back over any of the fine designs from the other Big Three watchmakers.

And even when it comes to the calendar watches, I too preferred the designs from Vacheron Constantin (References 4461 and 4240) over the legendary Patek Philippe 3448 and 3450, though I wished that Vacheron Constantin had competed more directly by making a perpetual calendar complication.

There is one complication combination on the vintage side, however, that Patek Philippe has all to itself, the perpetual calendar chronograph. Though extremely rare, models such as the 1518 and 2499 are beautiful, useful, legible, and desirable. I only wished that Vacheron Constantin made them starting in the 1940’s as well.

It wouldn’t be until 2000 that Vacheron Constantin would produce a true competitor with manual winding chronograph and perpetual calendar, but it would be worth the wait! One of the two crown jewels of the new Malte collection, the other being the Malte Tourbillon, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph represented a triumph of design





The movement is Vacheron Constantin’s workhorse manual winding caliber 1141, based on a Lemania ebauche that also powered the Historiques Chronograph, to which Vacheron  Constantin’s watchmakers added their own calendar module





The case is 39 mm in diameter, and pleasantly chunky at 14 mm thick and was available in either in 3N yellow gold or platinum. A hinged case back offered the owners a wonderful opportunity for a custom engraving and the chance the view the finely finished movement.





In 2007, the Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was updated for a limited run as part of the Excellence Platine collection. The case expanded to 42 mm and the platinum dial was give a sand blasted Finnish. The movement is the same calibre 1141 QP as in the predecessor.





the watch is thinner than the original, and does away with the hinged case back cover.









There were only fifty made.

The focus of Vacheron Constantin at SIHH 2009 was the extension of the Patrimony Traditionnelle line, originally introduced in 2007, with new complications, and among them was a perpetual calendar chronograph, now in a 43 mm case:





True to the times, the yellow gold of the original Malte design has given way to the rose gold case preferred by today’s watch buyers.

Finally, in 2011, the platinum cased watch has been offered with a ruthenium finished dial that distinguishes Vacheron Constantin’s platinum watches from its white gold cousins.

The next step that we collectors anticipate will be the introduction of an entirely in-house chronograph movement with the addition of the perpetual calendar.


Bill Lind
VC Forum Moderator

 

About the Vacheron Constantin Phidias Ref. 6087

The Vacheron Constantin Phidias reference 6087 represents the brand's approach to classic dress watch design within the Phidias series. This reference features a white dial configuration that provides clear contrast against the precious metal case construction.

The watch houses an automatic movement within a 33mm case crafted from 18k yellow gold. The white dial is protected by sapphire crystal, and the timepiece offers 30 meters of water resistance. The fixed bezel maintains clean lines consistent with traditional dress watch proportions.

Reference 6087 appeals to collectors seeking a precious metal dress watch from Vacheron Constantin's catalog. The 33mm case size reflects period-appropriate sizing for formal timepieces, while the yellow gold construction and white dial combination offers a classic aesthetic. This reference suits those prioritizing traditional materials and understated dial presentation within the Phidias collection.

Specifications

Caliber
1126
Case
18k Yellow Gold
Diameter
33 mm
Dial
White
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AM
amanico
Mar 27, 2012

The first and the second perpetual ccalendar chrono from VC made me dream for a long, very long time. These are watches with character and elegance. Maybe they were late in producing such a combination of complications, but theey did well with their two first PC Chrono. I will come back later on this topic, as I prepared a post dedicated to it. Just have to find it in my mess. Best, Nicolas

EE
eelstub
Mar 28, 2012

...dial layout but don't suppose there is much chance of a return to that case size Ed

JU
justindependent
Mar 28, 2012

I agree with eelstub, that I much prefer the first version in 39mm where I prefer the balance of the dial. I think I can live with the thickness having tried it before without the means to buy it at the time. I would find great enjoyment in having the open up the half hunter case back to see the movement as I do with my PP5059. Its a great feeling. If I can live the with balance of case width and height on that I can certainly love the first Malte Perp Chrono! This has without peers the best moo

A.
a.ler
Mar 28, 2012

i certainly hope , the new chronograph caliber , without the limitation of lemania's size, can have the balanced dial layout of the first perpetual chronograph you have shown . and hopefully and wishfully, draws inspiration from the designs of their heritage pieces. that will be my grail and i will porbably sell a few pieces of my collection to fund it. bill, thank you of the reminder that a chronograph movement is on its way and a good article.

RE
respo
Mar 28, 2012

What could be better than spending some time with these VC perpetual chronographs? I did not realize that the original Malte Perpetual Chronograph was 39mm. I, too, would like to see a return to that size. 14mm does seem a bit chunky for a 39mm watch, but was the reduction in thickness (to what size, by the way?) for the 47212 due completely to the lack of the hunter hinged case back cover, or was the watch put on a diet for other reasons? I think many of us are waiting to see what an in-house c

HE
hewitgar
Mar 29, 2012

I like each version, but settled on this one. Gary

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