Vintage
Tick Talk, a respected voice in the WatchProSite community, delves into the fascinating history of Vacheron Constantin's tonneau-shaped wristwatches. Inspired by contemporary releases like the Harmony and American 1921, Tick Talk unearths vintage examples, providing crucial context on Vacheron Constantin's historical numbering systems. This deep dive offers invaluable insights for collectors seeking to understand the lineage of these distinctive timepieces.
By The Numbers
Vacheron & Constantin employed three formats over the years to identify timepieces: photo reference numbers, catalog numbers, and model reference numbers. From 1904 to 1937, V&C photographed certain watches of interest and assigned them photo reference numbers in sequence from 1 to 3800. These were internal identifiers, unrelated to the catalog numbers used in printed materials for dealers and customers.
Photo reference were superseded in 1938 with production-based model reference numbers, commencing at 4000. Note, however, that series 5000, 8000 and 9000 were not used. Until 1950, model reference numbers were used for internal purposes and were not inscribed on timepieces. After 1950, model reference numbers replaced catalog numbers and were inscribed on the inner case back, along with hallmarks and case serial numbers.
1912 Photo reference 885.
1912 Photo reference 908, Tonneau Allongé.
1912 Photo reference 941, unique piece. Platinum case Allongé, yellow gold case back, bezel set with diamonds and sapphires, screw lugs, calibre 9’’’ 15/12.
1912 Photo reference 952. White gold, silver dial, screw lugs, calibre 9’’’ 15/12.
1913 Yellow gold case Bassiné measuring 27mm x 48mm with white enamel pattern on bezel, calibre RA 11’’’ N78 Amérique, 16 jewels.
1914 Photo reference 1172. Available in yellow or white gold, case 27mm wide, round calibre RA 9’’’ 15/12, 16 jewels.
1915 No reference assigned. Yellow gold case Bassiné measuring 29mm x 49.5mm with screwed lugs, calibre Amérique.
1917 Photo reference 1440. Available in yellow or white gold. Watch strap passes under the case.
1917 Photo reference 1455. White gold, calibre 11’’’ RA.
1918 No reference assigned, Tonneau Pointu. Available in yellow or white gold, calibre 11’’’ RA. Vacheron & Constantin’s first use of radium on a tonneau watch.
1919 Photo reference 1837. Yellow gold.
1919 No reference assigned, Tonneau Lozenge. Yellow gold case measuring 26mm x 46.5mm, calibre RA 9’’’ 94 VNP, 16 jewels.
1920 Photo reference 1764. White gold, also a unique piece in platinum, calibre RA 9’’’.
1920 No reference assigned, Tonneau Arqué in yellow gold, 9 and 10 ligne calibres.
1920 Photo Reference 2576. Available in yellow, white or green gold.
1921 No reference assigned, Tonneau Pointu in yellow or white gold, 9 ligne calibre.
1922 Photo reference 2573. White gold.
1922 Photo reference 1865. Available in white or green gold. Registered again as Photo Reference 3305 in 1930.
1922 Photo reference 1969.
1922 Photo reference 1970.
1922 Photo reference 1975.
1922 Photo reference 1976, Tonneau Court.
1922 Photo reference 1977, Tonneau Tronqué, white gold.
1922 Photo reference 2586. Available in white or green gold.
1923 Photo reference 2317.
1924 Photo reference 2316. Tortue case by Verger Frères. Available in yellow, white or green gold, also two in platinum and two in osmior.
1924 Photo reference 2433. Available in green or white gold, calibre RA 10’’’.
1924 Photo reference 2434. Available in green or white gold.
1924 Photo reference 3289 and 3296. White gold, sub-seconds.
1926 No reference assigned. Green gold Tronqué case measuring 25mm x 25mm, round calibre 9’’’ 94, 15 jewels.
1926 Photo reference 3459. Unique piece in platinum.
1927 Photo reference 2661. Stepped case, bezel in white gold and case in green gold, calibre 8’’’ 15/12.
1927 Photo reference 2893. Tonneau Allongé, available in green or white gold or platinum, calibre 8’’’ 15/12.
1927 Photo reference 3244. Platinum or green gold, 9 ligne calibre.
1927 Photo reference 2757. White gold, 11 ligne calibre.
1927 Photo reference 2758. Green gold, calibre 9’’’ 94.
1927 Photo reference 2759. Two-tone white and yellow gold, curved case back.
1927 Photo reference 2761. Green gold.
1927 Photo references 2765 and 3656. Two-tone white and green gold.
1927 Photo reference 3365. Green gold, calibre 9’’’ 94.
1927 Photo reference 3383. Available in white or yellow gold, 11 ligne calibre.
1928 Photo reference 2869.
1928 Photo reference 2907.
1928 Photo reference 3657. Green gold, 11 ligne calibre.
1929 Photo reference 3032. Platinum, 9 ligne calibre.
1929 Photo reference 3233. Green gold. Along with the rectangular-shaped Ref. 3234, may be Vacheron & Constantin’s first calendar wrist watch.
1930 Photo reference 3194.
1932 Photo reference 3352. Tonneau Plat, 9 ligne calibre.
1933 Photo reference 3426. Yellow or white gold, unique piece in platinum.
1933 Photo reference 3388. Unique piece, yellow gold Taubert water-resistant case with screw-down case back and bezel, RA 12’’’ calibre. The first Overseas?
1933 Photo reference 3446 (day/date, moon phases) and 3447 (day/date). Victorin Piguet ébauche.
1936 Photo reference 3620. Unique piece in gold, day/date and minute repeater. The so-called Don Pancho.
Watch was originally revealed in The Hour Lounge by a descendant of the original owner asking for advice on restoration.
1950 Model reference 6070. Yellow or white gold, calibre 453 sub-seconds.
1955 Model reference 6072. Yellow or white gold, calibre 454 centre seconds.
1961 Model reference 6589. Yellow or white gold, calibre 1001.
1963 Model reference 6627. Yellow or white gold, calibre 1003.
1963 Model reference 6891. Yellow or white gold, calibre 1003.
1964 Model reference 6983. Tonneau Carré, yellow gold, calibre 1003.
1964 Model reference 6984. Yellow gold, calibre 1072. The first Vacheron & Constantin tonneau watch with automatic movement.
1967 Model reference 7253. Yellow or white gold, calibre 1001.
1967 Model reference 7460. Yellow or white gold, calibre 1001.
1971 Model reference 45003. Yellow or white gold, automatic calibre 1121.
The Calibres
Oval shaped movements introduced in 1927.
Tonneau shaped movements introduced in 1932.
References
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 5000, introduced in 1996, is notable for its distinctive asymmetrical dial layout, a departure from the more traditional Calatrava designs. This reference features a small seconds sub-dial positioned between 4 and 5 o'clock, giving it a unique aesthetic that sets it apart within the Calatrava collection. It represents a period of design exploration for Patek Philippe, offering a contemporary interpretation of their classic dress watch.
The watch is housed in a 33.4 mm case, available in 18k yellow, white, or rose gold. It is powered by the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240, known for its integrated micro-rotor, which allows for a slender profile. This movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers water resistance up to 30 meters.
For collectors, the reference 5000 is appreciated for its limited production run and its unique dial configuration. It appeals to those seeking a Patek Philippe Calatrava with a less conventional design while retaining the brand's horological integrity. The various gold variants, including the 5000G (white gold), 5000J (yellow gold), and 5000R (rose gold), offer collectors choices in case material, each contributing to the reference's distinct character.
I love the minimalist design of the ref 6589 produced in 1961. Do you have more details (size, 1001 movement) I also like the "cathedrale" hands ;-) All the Best, Patrick
Thanks Patrick The 1001 is a very elegant movement with classic finger bridges, introduced in 1951. Based on the JLC 818 ebauche, it measures 9 lignes across with a height of 2.94mm. 18,000 vph and 17 or 18 jewels depending on variant. The one pictured here, bearing the Geneva Seal, has both Gyromax balance and Kif-flector shock protection, perhaps the ultimate evolution. The Calibre 1002 was a development of this movement with centre seconds. As far as the case size, this image from the web mig
A clever design to accommodate the larger automatic movement while still looking like a classic dress watch.
Any chance you can post that beauty on the Front Page where these are posted-please?
there is no logical connection here, nor with Front Page as far as I can see. You have such a deep interest in this one piece, perhaps contact Alex directly?
Hard to believe it's going nowhere
This thread is active on the Vacheron Constantin forum with 22 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
