Marcus Hanke[PuristSPro Moderator]
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Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver "Black Sea" In-Depth Review, Part 1
Aug 31, 2012,17:26 PM
Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver "Black Sea"
Test report by Marcus Hanke
Part 1
Wristwatches
with black cases have been popular ever since they were launched. The
first really well-known model was released by Orfina in the early 1970s,
realizing a design by F.A. Porsche. Until today, this Valjoux
7750-based chronograph is sought after by collectors. The reason for the
black watch’s popularity might lie in its reduced reflection signature,
which is important for members of special forces, maybe hunters as
well. For all others, it is the pure testosterone effect a watch made
for “real men” has on us, who we fall a tiny bit short of the “real men
culmination level”.
The problem with most blackened watch cases
is the vulnerability of their black surface finish to mechanical damage
or abrasion. Most black watches gain their appearance through a process
called physical vapour deposition, or PVD. Here, a very thin black layer
is deposed on the steel case. Unfortunately, this is not very hard and
is consequently damaged by scratches rather easily. Such a scratch
reveals the bright base material under the black layer, making the
scratch even more apparent. Since it is not so simple to reapply a PVD
coat to a watch, one has to either be extremely cautious wearing a black
watch, in order to prevent any flaws to show - which, btw, is not
really what a “real men watch” should be treated like - or accept the
various shining dings and lines showing through the black coat as traces
of a busy life.
A few years ago, the search for a more
scratch-resistant black surface coating resulted in DLC, diamond-like
carbon. The process to produce this coating is the same, PVD, but
instead of metallic oxides, a thin layer from amorphous carbon is
applied. Due to its diamond-like hardness, this layer is highly
resistant against abrasions and scratches, but can be compromised by
(massive) blows.
DLC initiated a new wave of black watches
launched during the last four or five years, sometimes the “black is
beautiful”-dogma resulted in “stealth” watches even, where markers and
hands alike were black as well, making it very difficult to read the
time.
Ulysse Nardin, too, jumped that wagon and launched an all-black Marine Diver with DLC case in 2009.
Now another technical development appeared
on the horizon, having started from another end of the watch
manufacturing business: In 1999, Blancpain presented its Concept 2000
line, which had some case parts (bezel rim, crown) and bracelet links
coated with black rubber. Before, only Audemars Piguet had used rubber
on the cases of its Royal Oak Offshore, on the hexagonal crown and as
rubber caps on the pushers (which initially were rather easily lost).
Blancpain’s choice of materials sparked a debate whether such a rubber
coating can be reliable and strong enough to withstand the test of time.
Meanwhile, after thirteen years of rubber coating on exposed watch
parts, I think this question can be answered positively.
For years,
rubber-coated watch components, like bezel and crown, were successfully
used, and became rather conventional. Yet these components were mostly
in simple shapes, and the rubber coating limited to small surface areas
only. In 2009, however, several brands, like IWC, Glashütte Original and
Jean Richard, presented watches which had their steel cases completely
coated with vulcanized black rubber. Unlike DLC, the rubber finish
offers better grip and a completely non-reflective matte surface. Once
again, the launch of these watches was quickly followed by discussions
about their ruggedness and the durability of the rubber coat.
In
2011, Ulysse Nardin followed the trend by presenting the “Black Sea”, a
Maxi Marine Diver, of which the case with all its components (including
the revolving bezel, crown and caseback) is coated with vulcanized
rubber. Unlike the earlier Stealth Diver, the first “Black Sea” features
a highly eye-catching combination of red luminous mass on hands and
hourmarkers, red hands of small second and power reserve, shiny black
patterns and structures on the dial, and light grey markings and
subdivisions.
In my opinion, this configuration makes this “Black Sea” one of the most striking designs in the UN catalogue.
Meanwhile,
the “Black Sea” has been expanded into an own line, with models
featuring colour accents in bright yellow, white and blue, and most
recently also including a chronograph. A limited edition of the Diver,
coated with blue rubber, the “Blue Sea”, complements the series since
this spring.
The release of the “Black Sea” again was the cause
of several questions and discussions on the durability of vulcanized
rubber coats on sports watches, which was why I decided to conduct a
special test, focussing on this aspect. Since the basic style and
movement are the same as that of the original Marine Diver, which I had
reviewed several years ago (click here to read the test: quicklook.watchprosite.com
), I did not intend to write another experience review.
However,
when the “Black Sea” arrived, it immediately made such an intense
impression on everybody looking at it, and felt so differently on the
wrist, that I decided it would justify a completely new test report.
Additionally, during the ten years passed since the Marine Diver review,
some of my test methods and criteria have changed, just as my own
perspective.
I. First impression:
This can be
summed up as follows: It is big, bold - and wow! Barely a watch of mine
stirred so many positive, even enthusiastic comments, from females and
males alike. The contrast between the flat black of the rubber and the
red of the hands and markers is stunning. While the watch is officially
called Marine Diver “Black Sea”, I immediately identified the black of
my Weber kettle and the red of the glowing charcoal in it. Consequently,
I dubbed the watch Marine Diver “Barbecue”, which might be less grandiose, but much more plausible than its official title.
As
already hinted, the “Barbecue” - sorry - the “Black Sea” is a rather
massive timepiece: its diameter is more than 45mm, its height about
14mm, and it weighs 138 grams, with the standard rubber/ceramic
bracelet.
II. Case, crystal and crown:
The first
grip on the watch case already reveals the “Black Sea’s” exclusive
feature: the fingers seeking for grip get grip. At first, it is a
somewhat weird feeling, to have the well-known shapes of a watch,
normally cool, shiny and smooth responding soft, yet firm, a little bit
elastic to the pressure of the finger tips.
As already stated,
the complete watch case is coated with vulcanized rubber. This is not
done by the case manufacturer, but by another company, that is also
active for other watch manufacturers as well. Since the rubber coat is
about 0.6 millimeters thick, one cannot simply take a standard steel
case from the shelf, but has to produce cases with different dimensions,
under consideration of the added rubber.
While
the use of rubber-coated cases is not a feature exclusive to Ulysse
Nardin, all other watches I am aware of have less sophisticated and fine
details: especially the Marine Diver’s revolving bezel, which is milled
with a fine wave pattern and figures in profile. I can assure that even
the most elaborate details of the case are perfectly reproduced and
modelled by the rubber coat.
Every
visible part of the case is rubber-coated, including the inner sides of
the lugs (lug width 22mm), the only exception being the traditional
serial number plate screwed to the side. All rubber-coated watch cases
of the unlimited series bear unique case numbers.
Typical
for the Marine series cases are the concave sides. On steel or gold
cases this effectively helps to prevent scratches, since this shape
simply keeps the material out of the way from potential harm. Here, the
rubber coat of course is a good protection shield already.
The
display case back is held by six screws and permits the view on the ETA
2892A2 base movement, which is nicely decorated with circular stripes
and a black rotor. The display back is also responsible for the reduced
water tightness rating of 200 meters, a hundred meters less than the
Ulysse Nardin Marine Divers with solid case back; not that this would
make a substantial difference in everyday practice.
The
unidirectionally revolving bezel features a luminous marker at the 60
minutes position, equipped with the same red SuperLuminova that is also
used on the dial and hands. When examined close up, it is noticed that
this luminous dot is missing the protecting sapphire crystal disk that
is present on the bezels of all other Marine Diver watches. I assume
this is because the rubber coating does not allow the attachment of such
a tiny protective crystal. The result is that the luminous dot is more
or less the only part of the whole watch that is prone to scratches.
The lower picture shows the protective sapphire on the luminous dot of the standard Marine Diver
To
assure the durability of the coat, exhaustive tests were conducted
already by the case manufacturer, then again by Ulysse Nardin, showing
no indication of a tendency to flake off, or of visible wear. In
addition to this, I was able to wear the watch reviewed in several rough
situations, and the watch passed these, including the exposure to
several aggressive chemicals, without even the slightest sign of wear or
damage. To read the test report, please click here: ulyssenardin.watchprosite.com
The
flat sapphire crystal has a magnification loupe for the date grinded
into its rear side, and features an efficient anti-reflective coating on
both sides. However, this makes water drops (or my dogs’ slobber) leave
highly visible traces on the crystal.
The
rubber coat also offers perfect grip to the large screw-down crown,
which is protected by two massive crown guards on the case.
III. Dial and hands
A
very attractive three-dimensional wave pattern adorns the black dial,
with domed rings limiting the two subdials of the power reserve at 12
and the small second at 6. The print of the text and the minutes and
seconds markers is not executed in bright white, but in a light grey,
which does not compromise the dominating effect of the red luminous
elements, but is still clearly legible. A concession to the oversized
hour markers with their shiny black facets is the fact that only two
minute markings fit between two hour markers, which makes an accurate
reading and setting more difficult near the hour markers.
The
execution of the dial and the markers is flawless, there is absolutely
no flaw or particle visible even under high magnification.
This
cannot be stated about all hands, though: Already a rather weak (3x)
loupe reveals that the small red hand of the power reserve has a
problem: Apparently, the paint was applied too thick, and the sides of
the hand were not cleaned, resulting in conspicuous varnish tears.
Of
course I am aware of the difficulties for the watch manufacturers to
check the hands sent from the supplier for quality defects. Each
delivery consists of several thousand tiny hands, stuck into pieces of
cardboard. It is impossible to retrieve all of them from this cardboard
for close inspection without risking to damage these most delicate
parts, let alone the work hours this procedure would cost. Yet in my
opinion, it is the responsibility of the supplier to guarantee flawless
products and to conduct serious quality checks before they leave his
facilities.
Finally it remains the individual assembling
watchmaker’s discretion whether he uses a part or rejects it: under his
loupe such a quality flaw should be clearly visible.
However, the
pictures above, when sent to Ulysse Nardin with the request for a
comment, stirred immediate activity: the other hands from this delivery
were subjected to scrutiny, and as it appears, the hand in question was
the only one with this kind of flaw. And I am positive this painted hand
will be the cause for increased efforts of the watchmakers, not to let
similarly compromised components slip through during assembly.
The other hands, especially the polished black hands for hour and minute, are flawless.
Compared
with the traditional Marine Diver and Maxi Marine Diver, the more
recent generation of Divers replaced the classic-looking hands for power
reserve and small second with a more modern design, distantly reminding
of a surfboard. Thus they match the wave pattern on the dial nicely,
and overall add a bit of boldness.
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2012-09-05 05:09:18 This message has been edited by MTF on 2012-09-13 12:10:23
Comments:
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Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver "Black Sea" In-Depth Review, Part 1
By: Marcus Hanke : August 31st, 2012-17:26
Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver "Black Sea" Test report by Marcus Hanke Part 1 Wristwatches with black cases have been popular ever since they were launched. The first really well-known model was released by Orfina in the early 1970s, realizing a design by F.A...
Thank you, Marcus, for performing yet another . . .
By: Dr No : September 1st, 2012-17:45
. . . thorough and objective review. One can tell that your admiration for the whole doesn't prejudice your typical attention to detail. One question: were there any frustrations experienced with setting time? Other variations of the subsidiary seconds ve...
Setting issues ...
By: Marcus Hanke : September 2nd, 2012-03:57
Thank you for your compliments, Art, and your question, of course: Indeed, it is a bit difficult to exactly set the correct time due to the oversized hour markers and missing minute markers as a consequence. For example: It is easy to accurately set the t...
Impressions of the UN Black Sea
By: ED209 : September 3rd, 2012-14:54
Thanks Marcus for your in-depth review of the UN Marine Diver Black Sea. It's interesting to see the differences between the original 2009 DLC version and the subtle changes on this newer rubber coated one. I was wondering if the vulcanized rubber made an...
No skid marks ...
By: Marcus Hanke : September 4th, 2012-01:26
The rubber leaves no traces on the contacted surfaces. However, thinking of it, I never had any traces from the many rubber straps I had and have as well. However, they would not come into similarly sharp contact with hard surfaces as the edges of the wat...
Thank you for another thorough review, Marcus!
By: dxboon : September 3rd, 2012-16:32
I'm glad UN is taking measures to more thoroughly review the hands when they arrive from the supplier. You've done them a great service in pointing out this issue, and they should be commended for responding with action. I think this variant of the Marine...
Thank you. The hands issue somehow reminds me ...
By: Marcus Hanke : September 4th, 2012-01:36
... of a small quality issue on a Glashütte Original dial, many years ago. I think I do not have the original picture that caused the unrest, but the discussion initiated this article of mine: Click here I think that the question of the level of perfectio...
I think your original Imperfect - Perfection article
By: MTF : September 4th, 2012-06:13
should be re-printed on PuristSPro in the future as a 'technical' discussion lead posting. Perhaps with the brand name deleted as the topic is a generic discussion of PuristS' attitudes? Thanks you for the thought provocation. Regards, MTF
Thanks, Marcus, very well done! PVD and DLC are not the panacea
By: ThomasM : September 4th, 2012-17:10
that most would like to believe (or make them out to be) but as you probably know, other treatments which are tougher and can take MOST hard knocks actually are TOO hard to be commercially viable - they cannot be refinished at all and new parts have to be...