Roger Dubuis

I already had the opportunity to present you the  Pink Gold Monegasque Automatic  last year with my Roger Dubuis report after the Salon Belles Montres 2011:

rogerdubuis.watchprosite.com

I would like to come back to the Stainless Steel version further to a loan from a friend who gave me the opportunity  to enjoy his watch for more than a full day.

In the same way that the Stainless Steel Excalibur 42 mm Automatic  presented at the beginning of the year, this Monegasque is a part of the entry level of Roger Dubuis. Defining such kind of watch is always a tricky task as it is necessary to build an offer with credible contents, respecting the principles of the Manufacture while keeping the retail price in an affordable range  in order to attract new customers.

The red 60 on the flange brings a touch of colour:

Roger Dubuis managed to achieve this result thanks to a very subtle alchemy that is similar to that used for the Excalibur: a mix of classicism and audacity, great dial finishings,  a Stainless Steel case, a movement finished according to the Geneva Seal criteria but produced with  controlled costs.

I think that the Monegasque is firstly an aesthetic success. The case is particularly well done thanks to its shape inspired by the Sympathie case  what allows to make a nice reminder of the past. its style is however less pronounced thus making it a more "reasonable" while keeping a hint of originality. It remains attractive in its Stainless Steel version thanks to the alternating of polished and brushed parts. The bezel is perhaps the most important element: it creates the link between the round shape of the dial and the most geometric shape of the case.


The dial is mainly inspired by the codes of casinos and gambling world but not only. If the  numerals on the dial evoke  the roulette, the way the indexes are extended on the dial makes me think about the stretched Roman numerals of the Excalibur. To make it short, the typical atmosphere of Roger Dubuis is present! The positioning of the 12 in the inner part of the dial frees room for the brand name on the top of the dial and creates a small break to bring dynamism to the design. The dial is made of several relief effects: the numerals are applied and the different parts of the dial appear as a succession of layers. The finishings are very convincing and help to make the  Monegasque a very charming watch. The hands don't spoil the dial: they combine perfectly with their background.

The RD821 automatic movement which powers this Monegasque has unlike the Excalibur 42 mm, a central rotor. Its frequency is 4 Hz. The 48 hours of power reserve are of course enough but they are a bit too short compared to current standards. The RD821 is a very nice movement to observe thanks to its pretty architecture and its both discrete and refined finishings. Unfortunately, in order to offer the most adjusted retail price, some concessions about the used materials had to be made. And I can feel it when I carefully look at the winding rotor that, even if we forget its material, is decorated in a way that does not give justice to it. The comparison with a gold central rotor movement like the RD14 can be almost cruel. It's a pity because the movement as a whole is a very qualitative one.

Its size is a bit small for the 42 mm case of the Monegasque: it is much more suited to the case of the 36mm Excalibur. At this stage, I have to pay tribute to the designers who were able to reduce with talent the perception of the second hand location too close to the center position. The complexity of the dial, the flange, the length of the index reduce this unbalanced feeling and the dial is visually very harmonious.

The test over a longer period allowed me to appreciate the qualities of the Monegasque but also to confirm some weaknesses even if at the end, the balance remains very positive. It is the reason why I start my "on the wrist review" by the points which disappointed me.

I was very lucky to be able to do this review by the way. My wrist size is the same than my friend's one who owns of the Monegasque. If this had not been the case, I would not have been able to enjoy it because  the only method to put the strap at the right size is to cut it! The clasp is obviously adjustable but it is for summer/winter positions only. Systems that make it necessary to cut the bracelets are in my opinion to be banished.

I have already mentioned the finishings of the rotor and it is true that they have disappointed me: the movement definitely deserves better ones. The pattern is not unpleasant to watch, but it's little qualitative. I think there is much better to do even with controlled costs.

Finally, the legibility can be delicate in special light conditions. The hands "fade" into the dial when the light strikes the dial with one specific angle and I was obliged to find the correct position to be able to read the time again.

Let 's have a closer look now to the assets of the Monegasque. They are numerous and they explain its power of seduction.

Once the strap is adjusted, the watch is worn with comfort: it is well positioned on the wrist and doesn't move anymore. There's nothing worse than a watch that swings on the wrist. The clasp is quite nice thanks to  its square shape with 4  Roger Dubuis logos on it. It opens by pressing the two side buttons and it is something I appreciate. I do not like clasp with which it is necessary simply to pull to open them.
The finishings of the dial is highlighted by the shades of light that it creates: from grey to blue, the dial is very subtle and luminous. Volume effects enhance the perceived quality. The bezel is as beautiful, its brushed rendering is a feast for the eyes. Frankly speaking, I've spent plenty of time to enjoy this dial whose details make us forget the unbalanced positioning of the second hand.

I have to confess that I was seduced by this Monegasque and  I personally prefer it to  the Excalibur 42 mm of the same segment: the Excalibur has a significant advantage with its micro-rotor calibre but I think that over a long period the beauty and the refinement of the dial would work better with me. Despite some unfortunate  (the finishing of the rotor) or annoying (the obligation to cut the strap) details, the Monegasque offers solid watchmaking contents with an attractive price for a watch bearing the Geneva seal. The Stainless Steel Monegasque Automatic  therefore meets the assigned mission which is to open the collection to new customers who look for a High Horology Manufacture watch at an adjusted price. The decision in this context to propose a Stainless Steel case has to be emphasized. Even if it is an entry-level watch, it is before all a real Roger Dubuis watch with all that this means in terms of qualitative approach and of interest from the mechanical point of view.

Thanks to the staff of the Hall of Time boutique in Brussels.

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