Undeniably, many collectors have shown a strong preference for larger sizes during the last 10 to 15 years, and this is also the direction Patek is taking for most of its newer models, including the Calatrava collection.

Jun 11, 2023,17:29 PM

I like numbers, so your reply made me look up some interesting data in response. First off, we currently have VERY few in-catalog "men's" models (defined for simplicity's sake as 5xxx- or 6xxx-references, though this is not entirely accurate) of size less than 39mm, and NONE less than 38mm. The only Calatrava included in the former group is Rare Handcraft Ref. 5088/100P, for which it is not even possible to submit new applications. 

To be honest, while I'd be fine with "experimenting" in other areas of Patek's production, I want the Calatrava line to play it VERY safe for now. Since March of last year --- when the first group of 2022 releases included a number of new references, but intentionally left out all the sports models! --- the popularity of the entire Calatrava collection has literally NEVER been so high in generations. It would be insane, in my view, to take any chances so early in the process....be it for a less-than-popular design, or size, or anything else smile [NOTE: I don't work for Patek, but I always provide amazing advice😂]

As for the rest of Patek's current collection, interestingly, the very few men's models of size smaller than 39mm include as many as three iterations of Ref. 5396. This is a gorgeous AC reference, with the unusual feature of being in Patek's collection for over 17 years, by means of a large number of R and G gold versions. (The R-011, which I bought in 2010 and saw many siblings come and go in between, is still in production today!). This is DEFINITELY a watch I would advise you to acquire, assuming you are interested in this type of traditional complication --- good looking, extremely classy, and historically/horologically VERY relevant.

Then, out of more than 140 other models, I'm afraid I only have THREE pieces of good news for you! smile The first two come from the Grand Complications catalog, namely Ref. 5160/500G (a 38mm perpetual calendar with a hand-engraved case back, which is pure art on the wrist), and the highly surprising Ref. 5373P that we announced last year, at 38.3mm. You need to be prepared to wire north of $200k to Patek for either model, but at least for the 5160, that's the only downside I can see smile

Some GREAT news I have is however called 5230P (or 5231G, in its enamel version)! This is our most recent WT, an amazing complication that has written the history of this Brand, and is available --- for less than $100k in both cases --- at 38.5mm.

Perhaps even more interesting from your perspective, this is THE best example I can give you of Patek *downsizing* its modern offering, since the immediate predecessor of the 5230, Ref. 5130, was 39.5mm in size (in turn, this marked an increase with respect to the earlier WT, Ref. 5110). Size aside, I'd warmly encourage you or any other good collector to request a 5230, Andrea (or if accessible, of course go immediately for a 5231)! smile

I hope this helps, or at least that it put things more in perspective for everyone. It was also interesting for me to look into this topic! ;-)

Cheers, FabR

More posts: 5110513051605396calatravacomplicationsgrand complications

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The new limited edition watches from Patek's exhibition in Tokyo

 By: 中野れい : June 10th, 2023-02:50
Photos are from Hodinkee Japan's twitter. I am sure the team here will have more infos and pictures. Thank you. Ref. 5308P-010 The amazing new 5531R-014 The brand new Ref. 5330G-010 Calatrava Ref. 6127G Our new 7121/200G And finally for the six "regular" ...  

Special pieces 👌🏽

 By: ArmisT : June 10th, 2023-03:44
The artistic depiction on the first piece is almost magical. And the purple World Time is unbeatable.

Huge thanks for the first live pictures of the marvelous limited editions for the Tokyo Exhibit, Sir! So I'm taking the liberty to add all the official info I just received from Patek to your thread, with the various press releases, technical info, etc..

 By: FabR : June 10th, 2023-03:59
I will also include a few press pictures of all models and Rare Handcrafts to your original post, so we keep everything together! Please all other Members currently in Tokyo, of course feel free to contribute with any other live pictures you could take. I... 


 By: 中野れい : June 10th, 2023-04:08
It's from Hodinkee japanese twitter, I can not claim they're my pictures 😅 I will try to post my own if I go later next weekend. Thank you Sir

Glad I can be useful 😊

 By: 中野れい : June 10th, 2023-04:27


 By: FabR : June 10th, 2023-05:08

Thanks again, I'm likely done with editing your original post and have added further info below in reply, as it came in from Patek today.

 By: FabR : June 10th, 2023-07:09
I also took the liberty to 'promote' your entry to our Editors Picks section, a selection of our finest threads which will give it further visibility Cheers, FabR (Patek moderator)


 By: 中野れい : June 10th, 2023-09:43
Thank you


 By: FabR : June 10th, 2023-09:47

For what event it was?

 By: amanico : June 10th, 2023-10:09

Ah ok, I got it!

 By: amanico : June 10th, 2023-13:10


 By: FabR : June 10th, 2023-13:48

Below please find a few more official pictures of the stunning new 5531R-014, whose enamel dial represents the historical Chuo district in Tokyo. It is a special edition of 15 for the local market! ;-)

 By: FabR : June 10th, 2023-05:06
The stunning enamel dial, representing the Chuo district (central Tokyo) A detail of the case, common to all 5531 in- and out-of-catalog editions The watch comes with two interchangeable case backs, this one in sapphire and one in R gold. They both bear t...  

Thanks, Fab!

 By: amanico : June 10th, 2023-07:28

Thank you very much for the information!

 By: The Wellingtonian : June 10th, 2023-09:14
Great insight to the limited editions. Hopefully some of our members in Japan will be lucky to be allocated some of these !

A little more information for you on two of the most interesting Tokyo Rare Handcrafts, the twin Refs. 5089G-124 and -125, "Tsuba -- Oranges and Flowers," featuring the technique of hand-engraving!

 By: FabR : June 10th, 2023-06:59
From Patek's original description, only lightly edited: These two limited editions of five watches each were inspired by a decoration of oranges and flowers gracing a tsuba, the hand guard on a traditional Japanese sword, dating from the mid-Nineteenth ce...  

Out of this world stuff! Thank you.

 By: The Wellingtonian : June 10th, 2023-09:19
I am guessing all of this these are for the local Japanese market?

That table clock is awesome.

 By: Mr.Gatsby : June 10th, 2023-07:53
If only it came in the form of a watch in white gold or something 😋 Best Gatsby

Some photos of Tokyo editions and rare handcrafts I took today

 By: brandon.c : June 10th, 2023-08:46
Here are some photos I took today that turned out well enough to share: ...  

Beautiful! Thank you !!

 By: The Wellingtonian : June 10th, 2023-09:28

A little more info now from Patek on the amazing table clock Ref. 25014M-001, "Tokyo as the Crow Flies," a unique piece in cloisonné enamel!

 By: FabR : June 10th, 2023-10:00
From Patek's official description: This unique piece notable for its original, exclusive design, is adorned with a stylized plan of central Tokyo, formerly Edo, in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel -- its streets, parks and lakes spilling over from the dial onto...  

WOW, I love the 6127G!!!

 By: andrea~ : June 10th, 2023-11:48
I hope they'll offer it as a part of the permanent collection AND it's 36mm? I adore everything about it. The hands, the dial, the case, the lugs...

hopefully it goes global with other variants

 By: andrea~ : June 11th, 2023-00:33
I really love everything about it and it would be nice to see Patek offering smaller sizes alongside the usual ~39-41mm options

I understand the wider appeal of bigger calatravas

 By: andrea~ : June 11th, 2023-11:41
But it's unfortunate to see for us who like more traditional sizes. It seems like PP is increasing sizes year after year, without anything to fill the gap left in the midsize section. I can see myself buying the 6127 in the future. Brands are missing out ... 

Undeniably, many collectors have shown a strong preference for larger sizes during the last 10 to 15 years, and this is also the direction Patek is taking for most of its newer models, including the Calatrava collection.

 By: FabR : June 11th, 2023-17:29
I like numbers, so your reply made me look up some interesting data in response. First off, we currently have VERY few in-catalog "men's" models (defined for simplicity's sake as 5xxx- or 6xxx-references, though this is not entirely accurate) of size less... 

Thanks for the analysis!

 By: andrea~ : June 11th, 2023-19:48
It seems like the only options are the 5230 (seeing the 40mm 5330 it's likely that this reference is getting bigger too) or a six figure masterpiece 😅

Fully agreed, including on the 5330 (if it enters the regular catalog in the near future, which is not unlikely, that will remain its size! ;-) The 5230P (but I wouldn’t totally rule out a 5396…) will make lots of sense, also in terms of accessibility.

 By: FabR : June 12th, 2023-04:56
The current Platinum version (at Euros 73,900 here in Italy) is in my opinion the best 5230 we have seen, and a real gem of a modern Patek Philippe!😄 Cheers.


 By: FabR : June 12th, 2023-20:31

Thanks for sharing !

 By: GLau : June 10th, 2023-13:51
Love the MR with the AP enamel Tiger !

To wrap up (for now), a few more useful details and pictures on a couple of very popular Rare Handcrafts, since Patek's official site might take a while to update on this part. Let's start with the amazing Ref. 5738/50G-025, “Snow-Covered Landscape”:

 By: FabR : June 10th, 2023-16:04
From Patek's official material, only lightly edited (I believe this hasn't been published elsewhere): Golden Ellipse wristwatch with dial in cloisonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel. The decoration in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel on this ...  

As for our Dome Clocks, a lesser-known but equally important part of Patek's Rare Handcraft production, eight clocks were created to celebrate the Tokyo Exhibit --- all unique pieces! Here's for you the stunning Ref. 20140M-001, "Calligraphy":

 By: FabR : June 10th, 2023-16:13
Again from Patek's official material: Dome table clock in cloisonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel This unique piece in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel pays tribute to the noble art of Japanese calligraphy, particularly the tradition of insc...