Officine Panerai

To mark the 100^th anniversary Jules Verne’s passing, Panerai released the Jules Verne Sealand (Ref: PAM000216) in 2005.  What captivated me most was not the watch itself but the strap.

 

 

Photo taken from Panerai website

 

So why is this strap so special? Well, simply because it was the first OEM strap released by Panerai, or any other watch manufacture for that matter, to feature nubuck alligator hide.  It was surprising to see the term "nubuck" coupled with "alligator" since I had always associated nubuck with cowhide.

 

Nubuck refers to the process by which the hide is buffed on the outside, or the top-grain side.  The result is a light surface nap which can be very fine and displays a very soft, velvety finish.  Nubuck is comparable to suede.  However, suede is created from buffing the inner side or flesh side of the hide.  Leathersmiths consider nubuck to be superior to suede because it is much softer, thicker and more resistance to normal wear and stains.

 

Applying this process on an alligator hide give it this softer suede-like characteristic while retaining its reptilian scaling. WOW!!! How cool is that?

 

Being a strapaholic, I had to learn as much about what is now affectionately referred to as the Jules Verne strap (JV strap for short).  When launched, the strap was offered only in gold.  This was followed by black in late 2007. However, the black is not really black but rather a dark gray.

 

Gold JV strap on Pre A 1 and Black JV strap on Cali dial

 

Besides, the Jules Verne Sealand, the JV strap comes standard with the limited edition platinum 10-day GMT Radiomir (Ref: PAM000274).

 

Photo taken from Panerai website

 

The variants, in both colours, that I am aware of, are as follows:

 

1. 26/26 for the tang buckle

2. 24/22 for the tang buckle and Luminor deployant buckle

3. 26/20 for the Radiomir deployant buckle

4. 26/22 for the tang buckle

5. 26/22 for the tang buckle

 

The lengths vary between 115/75 and 125/85, although the 115/75 is the most common. There may be other variations of both dimension and length as Panerai used to take custom orders for this strap. However, due to production issues Panerai has since ceased this practice, or so they tell me.

 

As far as OEM straps go, the JV strap is not cheap.  However, in my opinion, it is probably one of the most exquisite straps ever produced.  Its softness and texture is something that one does not generally associate with reptilian hides but it is this very contrast that makes it such a special strap. 

 

What intrigues me even more is the variation in colour and tone of the nubuck alligator hide, particularly in gold.  The tones vary within the scales, ranging from dark brown to light tan giving it a cloudy appearance.  This allows each strap to form its own characteristics with no two gold JV strap sharing the same tonal qualities.  As it ages, the gold JV strap forms a nice patina further expressing its uniqueness.  It is this individuality that makes this strap so appealing to me.

 

Top strap – used

Bottom strap – new

 

Top strap – 26/26

Bottom strap – 24/22

 

Overlaid with used strap

 

Check out that texture, you can see the fine nap

 

The strap gets a little grainier as it ages

 

While it feels soft and fragile, its actually very durable

 

The newer black JV strap is much more consistent in colour by virtue of its darker and narrower tonal differences.  Its finishing and texture are smoother and more refined than the gold JV strap.  However, depending on how strong the ambient lighting is, the scales on the black JV strap can be less pronounced.

 

 

 

 

The strap wears extremely well with both Radiomir and Luminor watches.  This is surprising since the ruggedness of the Luminor case may not make this strap the obvious choice.  One of the finest combinations that I have seen is the pairing of the gold JV strap with the PAM000203. 

 

Courtesy of Jester, used with permission

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It may seem a little frivolous to write so much about a strap, but for me the JV strap is a truly magnificent strap.  It is the only example of its kind available and I applaud Panerai for making such an interesting strap available.  If I can make one request, please make a nubuck hornback strap

 

Thanks for reading

Gaz

 

 

 added to Editor's Pick

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-03-17 20:53:01

I've just got new JV for my wife's 219 and she really loves this strap BADLY....its texture and color are amazing. I never had the idea of the "aged JV" until I read through your post. Thanks for sharing your review.

Here are some pics of hey JV....

obligatory wristshot....

Cheers.

Gaz

of a strap I have ever witnessed.  I am all over it now!

HAGWE

 

Asi

Would love to see it on a Pre V, please share that with us when you get the strap.  I think the gold will go really well with the patina dial.

Cheers

Gaz

This strap, with the one of the 172/192, is one fo the very nicest Vendome straps...
Vzery nice review, my Gazza Friend! LOL
Best, and thanks!
Nicolas

Maybe that would be my next strap review

Cheers

Gaz

I've ever read!

I knew someday someone would write a strap review for a Panerai strap, so I'm not surprised at all.  It's about time someone did I guess

Thanks for the details on the Jules Verne strap, and many other Paneristi's have raved about the JV strap as well.  They sure age beautifully!

Cheers,
Anthony

Thanks for the encouraging response. 

Cheers

Gaz

nt

Gaz

Back to drooling over straps and watches.

Thanks again.

Bill

Watch out for a Berluti post next LOL!!!

Gaz

.

Gaz

-David

of the post..!!!  That really is an awsome strap...big congrats on putting together this post.  More pics wouldn't be lost at all.

Yours,

andy.

match the strap up against a PVD.  Thanks for the encouragement.

Gaz

I need to get one too...really nice strap

Gaz

This is one of the best review I have read in a while.

Thank you for your input.

It would be great if we can get it archive on this forum.. imho..

Cheers,

Ken

 

 

 

This message has been edited by colantotte on 2008-03-16 08:43:02

Gaz

Great report!  I am particularly pleased to see your photos and comments regarding the black JV.  I own a tan strap and have been contemplating the purchase of a black.  After seeing your photos, my decision to purchase the latter is made.  The JV is such a wonderful strap ..... it has a wonderful look and an even more wonderfuI feel to the touch.  I wish Panerai would consider other colours as well.

Thanks again

Carol

Gaz

but I have had no luck with my JV. The strap retails for $375 in Australia but luckily mine was a gift so I didn't feel quite the same $$ pain when I noticed little "flicky bits"  floating away from the strap and keepers. Perhaps I got the lemon in the batch but whilst wearing it I noticed that it also picked up every little mark and spot. Mine was a tan 24/22 XL 95/115 and was mounted on my 233. After your review I may get a 26 and try it on my 203 as you suggest. That watch does not get the daily wear of my three 44mm Pams so it may stay in a more pristine condition.

So that's my only real question mark on this strap.. the nubuck seems to mark easily. Of course I tried to get the nasty spots off...but ended up turning the nubuck into  "semimat alligator".It's much darker now and gets little wrist time. Your review has inspired me to try again but to be more careful with it next time

Cheers,

David

I have seen an example of what you have described.  This was on a very worn strap and was from the initial batch that was launched. 

Given the nubuck finishing, there is some degree of fragility in the strap, especially with the tang buckle.  The deployant versions fare much better on the wear and tear.  As for spotting, I have had water splashed on it and it never left a permanent mark but I know oils will leave a bit of a stain.

If possible, see if you can track down the black version.  I think part of the issueis also related to the lighter colour to the gold version which, as I mentioned, ages with wear.  You can see from my examples the difference in both tone and colour between new and worn.

Good luck.

Gaz

The JV is one killer strap!

This is the first time I have seen the black JV strap.

Gaz This message has been edited by Gaz on 2008-03-17 17:56:25

and was told by Panerai that the strap on the 45mm 10 Days GMT is actually a 27mm/24mm strap and not a 26mm/22mm strap (I guess the holes are a bit wider apart on that Radiomir case), and it is also designed for a deployant clasp on that model.

I can order one in 26/22 for my 190 and a) it is wickedly expensive and b) it will take 8-10 weeks.

Is it really worth it?  I know most of the threads here are very positive about it, but I could get three straps from strap makers for the same price.

Come on, push me over the edge - it looks superb

Simon

I would even wager that its Panerai's most expensive strap.  Also there are a multitude of variations in the sizing.  Having said that and best to my knowledge, the deployant for the Radiomir is 20mm at the buckle end.  Irrespective, I feel that the nicest OEM strap that Panerai produces and is extremely unique.

The deployant version is much thinner at the tip, and given some of the "fragility" issues raised by David in his post, it is a better version of the strap.  Also, for obvious reasons, the deployant helps preserve the strap too.

I understand that there are several straps that have been plauged by quality issues.  Some early versions of the JV strap has had flaying and even cracking around the holes due to wear.  However, my strap is holding up pretty well, even with the occassional splashing of water.  This is one of a few straps that Panerai seem to gravitate towards a deployant version.  The other being the Riva strap, which as I understand it had longevity issues when designed for the tang buckle.

By no means am I "defending" this particular make and I think David and yourself have raised some very good points - 1) it is a very expensive strap and 2) there is some degree of fragility.  Having said that, and raised in my review, I think the black version is a much sturdier construction.  Panerai has learnt much from its production experience with the gold version.  Perhaps you should check that version out too.

BTW, what they have offered you is a "custom" service.  I've been told that this service is no longer offered, but I think its because I keep bugging them about my straps .  Having said that, I have waited over four months for a custom hornback straps but I am fairly patient when I know something is bespoked.

Good luck with your purchase.

Cheers

Gaz