Omega

I would be grateful if members can chime in on how to tell the difference in quality in grand feu enamel dials. For example the Seiko Presage has an enamel dial and so does the UN San Marco’s of old or Jaquet Droz. 

Surely it cannot be just be the identity of the artist like Anita Porchet or Susanne Rohr.  

How does one rate each grand feu enamel dial. In movement finishing one looks at the anglage and polishing etc.

Is there a similar criteria to identify in grand feu enamel dials? 

Many thanks.

Second, cheap enamel can be executed on copper or silver, but the best examples use a gold dial base plate as a starting point. 

Third, how many layers are applied and how well they are fired can influence the richness and smoothness of the dial. Great enamel can have up to 20 layers even if the dial is just a solid color. 

Fourth, surface smoothness is difficult to achieve with enamel, and that's why the vast majority of enamel dials are white; it hides defects. That's also the reason that even Patek Philippe enamel dials avoided dark colors until the last decade. For years, even flagship complications like the 5016 would receive lacquer dials if black dial color was requested. Flawless black or dark blue enamel is a sign of excellence.

Fifth, are the graphical features of the dial applied after the firing or an integral part of the enamel itself? The best enamel dials are all-enamel, and cheaper enamel dials have tampon-applied numerals, indices, etc. like a regular watch dial. 

Sixth, any combination with cloisonne, champleve, engraving (e.g., Patek 5738/51G), paillone, or miniature painting raises the challenge and skill level required at a geometric rate. Flinque enamel involves applying a layer of translucent enamel over a guilloche or engraved base, so the see-though enamel layer must be optically clear and flawless in order to avoid obstructing or distorting the view of the cut dial base.

I'm sure more will come to me, but this is what I can recall of the top of my head.

Here's another recent Omega with an enamel dial.

Case is 49.2 mm, dial is probably on the order of 45 mm.  I wonder what the rejection rate was?

🤔

This is the only example I've ever seen; don't know of anyone that owns one.

Art