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Chopard

The tagline says it: Classic complication at great value

 
 By: MTF : March 18th, 2016-23:39
The project driver was "value" from the start.
Regards,
MTF

28 28 28 29?

 
 By: MTF : March 19th, 2016-00:58
Don't confuse the newbies !
We have enough confusion, as it is.
smile
MTF

28 28 28 29?

 
 By: Billy S. : March 19th, 2016-22:21
I really don't get it.

He means that instead of the markers 1, 2, 3, 4 on the Leap Year indicator...

 
 By: MTF : March 19th, 2016-23:54
Traditionally, the markers 1, 2, 3 and 4 indicate normal years 1 to 3 that have 28 days in February.
Then in Year 4, there are 29 days.
The suggestion to help people is to indicate for each year sector the actual number of days e.g. 28, 28, 28 and then 29 days.
Logically, the owner can see immediately the number of days in current indicated year.
On the other hand, as this is a new idea..there is confusion, as you discovered.
Regards,
MTF

Leap year! [nt]

 
 By: amanico : March 20th, 2016-00:25
No message body

Or...as you suggest...just write "Leap" for the Year 4 sector. :o) (nt)

 
 By: MTF : March 20th, 2016-00:28
smile

Or Lip. ;) [nt]

 
 By: amanico : March 20th, 2016-00:32
No message body

Yes, I would be happy with LEAP

 
 By: cazalea : March 21st, 2016-11:00
It's just this 1 2 3 4 business that I can't quite reconcile with. It's one of the main reasons I settled on the IWC for my first perpetual.
No need to worry about 4=Leap when you have the whole year spelled out in 4 digits on the dial (most of the time).

Putting the Leap indicator at 2 is very cool, and making the L red to match the indicator hand is a good touch too.
I must say I find the Chopard very appealing in many ways.

Cazalea




If the sub dials has no label and there is a Moonphase...

 
 By: Clueless_Collector : March 18th, 2016-20:08
it will appeal me more. I'm still cannot get over a Perpetual Calendar without a moon, not even those with different phases of the moon engraved in a sub dial.

It will also be nice if micro rotors are gold smile) I think that will look so much better.

Rgds
Raymond

Funny, I was thinking pretty much the same thing!

 
 By: Esharp : March 18th, 2016-20:45
It's great to see this.  Generally I'm very fond of what Chopard has done, and I've considered a good few for purchase.  Unfortunately there's been something in each model I've looked at that didn't quite do it for me; but I've come pretty close and I still regard the original LUC 1.96 as a bit of a grail - maybe someday I'll pick one up (white gold, blue dial, I think).

Now, about this watch...

I don't mind about the lack of a moonphase.

And I noticed with a little disappointment, but don't really mind, the steel winding rotor (assuming that the price has benefited from omitting a precious-metal winding mass).

But those subdials!  Goodness me.  I just don't understand why that text is there.  Surely anyone who has the good taste and the wherewithal to buy and wear such a watch can be trusted to figure out that a subdial with JFMAM etc. is the months, etc.?

Or was there a conversation a little while back in Chopard HQ which went something like this:

"Oh look, check this out, here's what I've designed."
"Nice!  Steel LUC perpetual calendar...it's gonna be a huge hit with all those weirdo obsessive watch fans!  And I like that eccentric leap year indicator.  Well done.  Who's it targeted at?"
"Well, you know, our customers are classy!  Discerning!  Sophisticated!  They have great taste and they're learning so much more these days about watches, and there's a lot more demand for stainless steel because they see the value in the movement.  Plus, as everyone knows, the Swiss watch industry has pushed prices up in the last bunch of years to the ridiculous bordering on the insane, and finally the customers are catching up with that; so we've got to adjust all that and address the value proposition."
"Great.  But wait...why are we telling people what each subdial does?  Is that necessary?  Won't it be pretty obvious to everyone that this one is for seconds, that one is for months, and the other one is for days of the week?"
"Hey...I never said our customers had any brains!"

????

Best (tongue firmly in cheek),

E.
This message has been edited by Esharp on 2016-03-18 21:12:38

I was not at the board meeting

 
 By: MTF : March 19th, 2016-00:35
Esharp

I was not at the Chopard meeting but did discuss "plans" with Mr KFS about 5 years ago.

The original drivers even before a crystal ball could have predicted recent geopolitical events were:
Respond to requests for a simpler, affordable perpetual calendar L.U.C and a beginner-friendly complication.

So, some of your speculation about the topics is correct BUT the discussion conclusions were turned around. Yes - the features and labels on the dial were left on the watch: Not for the "weirdo obsessive watch fans" but for the new collectors.

Chopard pricing policy has always been different from their Swiss|German competitors. They did not spiral up every 12 months. In fact, I once "complained" to Mr KFS that his watches were" too cheap" and should keep up with his neighbours. This was in 2010. He replied that it was family policy not to overprice as long as they made a sensible profit and the dealers made a profit without discounts.
The family has been proven correct because Chopard global sales (even in China) has been steady positive all these years without crazy swings.
Those "cheap" watches I complained about in 2010 are now still correctly priced.

Regards
MTF

This message has been edited by MTF on 2016-03-20 11:37:33

Thanks, MTF

 
 By: Esharp : March 19th, 2016-03:03
I'm sure you could tell my post was very tongue-in-cheek but on a more serious note, it's always interesting to hear something about the thought process that goes into the development of the products.

Agreed re Chopard's pricing policy and that's one of several elements which lead me to label this company one of the few examples of what I would call 'honesty' in the business - serious kudos to KFS and the family!

That said, I still don't understand why even a new collector would need the labels on the dial.  Once you've looked at it for more than, oh, 30 seconds you'll know exactly what's what, even if you've never owned a watch before - and I've got to assume that the people who would buy this watch are generally going to be pretty accomplished and intelligent.  (My premise is that the industry does not generally position perpetual calendars for purchase by buffoons!)  Hence my state of perplexity over this one element of what otherwise looks to be rather a nice timepiece.

Best

E., self-proclaimed 'weirdo obsessive watch fan'


You have a very valid point, E. +1. Otherwise, nicely designed I must say. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : March 19th, 2016-01:09
No message body

Agreed on both counts

 
 By: alphabeta81 : March 18th, 2016-20:51
My first thought was "where's the moonphase?" And my second thought was "why the labels for day month etc?"

See reply to Raymond_S (nt)

 
 By: MTF : March 18th, 2016-23:58
nt

Makes sense

 
 By: alphabeta81 : March 22nd, 2016-13:06
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! And I agree, sensibly priced

It was designed from the start to recapture classic theme

 
 By: MTF : March 18th, 2016-23:57
Chopard already has an award winning Lunar One that even won a PuristS Purity Prize in 2009.

The original perpetual calendar definition does not include a moonphase display so it is suited to a more affordable model for new collectors or those who already have the Lunar One.

The idea is those who want the moonphase get the Lunar One and thise who want standard perpetual calendar get the Perpetual Twin.

Chopard already planned an affordable L. U. C 'complication piece' years before recent geopolitical events so this was coincidental to external global conditions.

Regards
MTF This message has been edited by MTF on 2016-03-19 02:58:11

Not too sure of the month indices of just J, F, M, A, M, J, J, ...

 
 By: Jester : March 18th, 2016-23:08
To me it's not exactly intuitive. Given the inscription of 'month' on the subdial, wouldn't it be better to simply indicate w/ arabic numerals then the leap year indicator w/ roman numeral?
Moreover, I'm curious about motivation behind launching this new caliber in steel case. The obvious guess would be to achieve a lower price point? However, if I remember correctly, this is the first non-precious metal perpetual from the house of Chopard?

Yes: both simplicity and cost were the goals

 
 By: MTF : March 19th, 2016-01:02
Good value, simplified complication.
Want more?
Pay more and get the Lunar One.
Regards
MTF

J, F, M, A, M, J, J ...

 
 By: kolosstt : March 21st, 2016-03:53
is pretty straight forward to me and naturally only reflects my taste.
We see the same as well on the Lunar One, Perpetual T and the lucky ones among us on the 150 All-in-one. It actually means that Chopard continues its style line, which I do appreciate. 

I think I would struggle with months 1, 2, 3 maybe a little bit, since it's less clear what you would be looking at - day or month. Don't you think?

Furthermore, I would like to say that I find the approach of other brands using sub-dials for month indication with JAN, • , MAR, a bit less attractive, actually it's the emptiness '•' in between,
Top notch for me would be a solution that allows complete JAN, FEB, MAR like we see with models using indications on bigger diameters. 

In the end, it's all a matter of taste. wink

Steel is for sure resulting in lower price point, but the little bit less of finishing by skipping the Geneva hallmark as well. On the other side, I also like the fact of the increased hardness of steel compared to precious metals. 

Positioning this PC in the Chopard portfolio, it seems to be a complimenting reference on the principles of the 1937 for example. 

Kind regards,
Kolosstt 
This message has been edited by kolosstt on 2016-03-21 03:56:17

Awful in so many ways...

 
 By: mdg : March 18th, 2016-23:31
...beginning with the text on the sundials and ending with the massive size. A watch this big should be waterproof down to 1,000 feet. Can't anyone other than PP make a slim, discreet perpetual anymore? Making thick watches isn't difficult, it's lazy imho.

For you: Buy the Patek Philippe

 
 By: MTF : March 19th, 2016-01:09
Now we have the choice according to our means .
Both in Geneva and at Baselworld, the two brands are neighbours. Its convenient for consumers.
You should get the Patek Philippe.
Regards,
MTF

My means lean more toward this one...

 
 By: mdg : March 19th, 2016-01:30
...unless my companies stock makes a long-awaited move up : )

But my point remains; is PP the only ones who can figure it out? If I'm a 'poor' man with 'only' $40-$60k to spend on a watch, should I just be satisfied and not expect anything else?

We know that Chopard can make a technically and aesthetically beautiful (and) slim movement. Why can't they apply that to a perpetual that costs the same as a Mercedes E-Class?

Just wondering...not trying to be contentious.

Unknown

 
 By: MTF : March 19th, 2016-02:52
I don't have shares nor role in the company.
I assume decisions are made despite and inspite of abilities and technique, that are driven by other forces.
Perhaps there is no need or purpose to subserve?
You are not contentious.
Its a valid question.
Thank you.
Regards,
MTF

Try JLC and the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : March 19th, 2016-07:04
No message body

Congrats to Chopard; I wish them success.

 
 By: dr.kol : March 19th, 2016-00:46
Chopard did what many others should have done. In general the global economy is getting complicated and Chopard, as a response, is offering fine watches in more affordable case. At least for me it's more important what ticks inside rather than the fancy material around the machine.

Best, Kari

Designed before current geopolitical effects

 
 By: MTF : March 19th, 2016-00:52
Actually discussed and designed before recent global conditions but I guess Chopard had a predictive crystal ball ?!?
smile
MTF

The current situation has been easy to predict for a long time.

 
 By: dr.kol : March 19th, 2016-00:56

I think Chopard has really understood what horology is all about.

Best, Kari
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