Vacheron Constantin

A launch of an entirely new watch line is something that is not unusual in the watch business.  Cartier has done the Driver, Cle, and others in just less than five years.  Even Apple (currently one of the largest watchmakers in the world) has launched two new lines in the same amount of time; the Apple Watch and the very recent Apple HomePod.  But when one of the Big Three firms (Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin) launch an entirely new line, that’s usually something worth taking notice.  

Vacheron Constantin’s FIFTYSIX model line is its latest creation, supposedly inspired by a watch from their history, the FIFTYSIX is a safe design that will be well received by many.  It’s also a strong launch; three different movements, all in steel or gold cases, for a total of six different variants show that this is not a half hearted launch.  Vacheron Constantin also has more models planned for roll-out in the FIFTYSIX line, one can be almost certain.  However, this article will focus primarily on the launch of the FIFTYSIX date model in steel; the simplest and least expensive version of the new FIFTYSIX and destined to be the volume leader of the new model line and my choice for Best Value Men’s Watch and Most Impactful Novelty of SIHH 2018. 

A lot of famous chefs are starting a trend; they have their high-end restaurant featuring the best cuts of meat and exotic ingredients; but then they have a more accessible restaurant usually nearby utilizing less exotic ingredients but still cooking of a very high standard.  In the San Francisco Bay Area, Alice Water’s Chez Panisse has the Chez Panisse Café; in New York City, Jean Georges has the restaurant bearing his name and “Nougatine by Jean Georges” as the slightly more casual dining option.  I recently dined at Nougatine during Restaurant Week NYC, where I had an excellent meal.  Restaurant Week NYC is all about introducing fine dining restaurants to individuals who haven’t often experienced fine dining.  There’s generally a prix fix menu that is lower in price, reflecting the restaurant’s classic dishes and giving an incentive for those who are less familiar with haute cuisine to give it a try!     

DESIGN

The watch is inspired by a watch Vacheron Constantin made in their history, the reference 6073 that was launched in 1956. 

An original advertisement for the FIFTYSIX. 




The original FIFTYSIX.  Notice the lugs protrude from the side of the case and are shaped like the Maltese Cross.  

The watch features a handsome and safe design that is a universal crowd pleaser.  Starting from the generous 40MM case, it’s a flavorful combination that’s truly abundant in meaningful flavor, not just a salt forward dish that’s lacking in substance.  At a proportionate 9.6mm thick, it will fit under the barrel cuff of all but the slimmest fitting of shirts. 

Big crown. 

Moving on to the dial, the best question anyone can ask of any potential purchase is what is the weakness of the new FIFTYSIX with date?  The Achilles’ heel in this case (no pun intended) is the date window is a little small, and to my eyes, it’s two millimeters too centrally placed courtesy of the smaller movement.  But minor faults, easily forgiven at this pricepoint.  The dial of the steel model is treated with white gold applied numerals and white gold hands.  The superlative dial construction is matched with a masculine grey opaline center and a grey sunburst outer diameter. 

The strap is a dark grey alligator strap.  And most importantly, the strap is surprisingly mounted on a steel folding clasp!  Definitely making this piece a practical watch for daily wear! 

I'm so pleased the FIFTYSIX in steel comes with a folding buckle. 

My first course arrives, it’s a sashimi dish at Nougatine by Jean George’s that’s drizzled in olive oil and has a hint of jalapeno; almost a Japanese and Latin mix?  It’s tasty, but the fish lacks flavor. 

 

MOVEMENT

The automatically wound Caliber 1326 movement of this watch is something that’s unusual for Vacheron Constantin.  It’s not entirely a true Vacheron Constantin movement, it’s a Richemont Group movement that’s been adapted and highly finished to Vacheron Constantin’s lofty standards.  While it doesn’t have the Geneva Seal that’s commonplace on most of Vacheron Constantin’s movements, it is beautifully finished and accentuated with a 22K solid gold winding rotor with a skeletonized Maltese Cross.  It’s a small movement, only 26.2mm in diameter, probably intended for a 36-37mm case.  But upon first glance, the 1326 is a nice piece of kit that’s worth admiring through the sapphire case back. 

The 1326 movement does not have a Geneva Seal, but it is nicely finished.  It has a flat balance spring on a standard annular balance wheel. 

Accuracy predictions are good; it’s got a high beat 4HZ 28,800 VPH balance wheel, smaller balance wheel.  It’s only got a 48 hour power reserve; if you put the watch down after work on Friday evening, it will unfortunately stop before you resume work on Monday morning. 

The movement is well finished and endowed with a 22K solid gold rotor that has a skeletonized Maltese Cross. 

26.2 mm (11 ¼ ’’’) diameter, 4.3 mm thick

Approximately 48 hours of power reserve

4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)

142 components

25 jewels

The main course at Nougatine has arrived.  It doesn’t disappoint, it’s a filet of fish that stretches from one end of the dish to the other.  Seared to perfection, and decorated with pumpkin seeds and a hint of spice.  The fish is served on a bed of spaghetti squash and a delicate broth is poured into the dish for added flavor and warmth with minimal salt. 

 

IMPACT

With a price tag of under 12,000 Swiss Francs, the Vacheron Constantin distribution, this watch really brings the world of haute horlogerie to a pricepoint that is accessible for a wide population.  The impact of this watch is truly going to be unprecedented.  The value proposition is incredible.  Other news agencies, like CNN, have already been suggesting this watch will be especially appealing to Millennials, but the FIFTYSIX is truly aimed at watch lovers of all demographics.  Personally, I hope the Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX will be a “gateway drug” for hundreds of new Millennial horology addicts; for it is their appreciation of this art form that will keep the world of haute horlogerie alive for the next generation. 

Modern, cool, ready for anything attitude. 

As I’m finishing the dessert of poached pear at this year’s Nougatine by Jean George’s NYC Restaurant Week 2018 menu, I can quickly reflect upon the meal with very positive remarks.  All the dishes were well flavored, none were salt forward, especially inventive with the use of hot spice in the appetizer and main courses, and just a great meal with the great company of two tremendously amazing watch collectors, one a Jean Georges regular.  I look around and I do see a good mix of clientele of different generations, hopefully some of them are experiencing haute cuisine for the first time and are finding it a successful introduction. 

Likewise, the FIFTYSIX Self-winding Date model will be a great introduction to the world of haute horlogerie for many individuals! 

Many thanks to Vacheron Constantin team for taking the time to explain this watch to me.  I am incredibly pleased that Vacheron Constantin, a storied brand with over 250 years of uninterrupted history, took it upon themselves to create a piece that will impact and inspire the lives of countless individuals whom will be introduced to high horology for the first time.  It’s surely a watch designed to disrupt the luxury timepiece market, and one that makes me personally rethink the value proposition of many other timepieces on the market.  

Goes great with my outfit. What are your thoughts?  Do you think this new Vacheron Constantin is a good value?  What are your thoughts about the impact and disruption the FIFTYSIX will bring to the industry?  

but please don't ever put a cartier caliber in a Lange🙏

Remember the old 1815s made before 2009? Those had one-sided finished movements. A total cheat. Lange wasn't always angelic neither. And I can't say that watch introduced a whole new demographic into the world of high horology.

On the other hand, this Vacheron Constantin really has the potential to show a whole new demographic a glimpse into the high horology world. It's doing so at the expense of other Richemont brands, especially Jaeger-LeCoultre which has watches near this price point, in steel, that are finished not quite as nicely as this one.

I definitely applaud the effort! 

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I have a Saxonia Thin 37mm and I’ve showed it to master watchmakers and they agreed that the finishing is second to none.

Teardowns of early 1815 Langes have shown they weren't finely finished in many places where it wasn't visible. 

A Lange executive has previously said that this was "a dark time for A. Lange & Soehne" and has vowed it won't happen again. 

Today's 1815 models (233 and 235 series) enjoy good finishing and double assembly on their movements.  The movements are assembled twice; first assembly, regulation, adjustments, torn down, partial cleaning, some plates further decorated, reassembled, minimal adjustments and regulations (these adjustments bring the chance of scratches and damage), and casing. 

It's important to note.  Lange does make a wonderful product today! 

There might be many and this very well might have been the case, but Lange was a very new brand trying to figure itself out and mistakes can and do happen along the way. No shame in that.
What would have been shameful is if Lange went backwards and made a movement without its traditional above standard finishing or decided to cut corners.

While I have to say that Lange is still among the best, they still make mistakes, some are still substantial mistakes.  The closer you look, the more likely you'll find something wrong.  It's definitely possible, even with Lange. 

Unless you know everything for a fact, you cannot assume that Lange is perfect.  And I'm a tremendous fan of Lange.  But even despite my fan-boy attitude towards Lange, when I look at Lange objectively, I have to say they're very very good, but I'd stay away from certain models. 

Pretty much, the only brand that is perfect is Montblanc Villeret and Greubel Forsey; certain independents, and some really top pieces from VC, AP, PP, Lange, Chopard L.U.C, and even JLC (although I do find JLC's Gyrotourbillon cage to be in need of a better polish).  And that really makes those Montblancs an excellent value! 

and was little impressed (having a clear memory of the earlier pieces), particularly of the Saxonia automatic. Both the quality of the anglage as well as of the engraving of the balance cock were clearly a notch below what I would expect.

As a collector i am always looking to learn from others. Do you mind explaining what you found to be subpar in their engraving and bevelling? Quality of finishing is very important to me and i have spent countless hours comparing the finishes on my watches with those of AP, Patek and Journe and have only come to the conclusion that Lange was a notch above. i might be mistaken of course, hence why id be interested in hearing your thoughts!

It was originally on www.thepurists.com website, the original website to PuristSPro.  Writer was "8Ohms" or something like that. 

Found it...

ei8htohms.tinyparts.net

Unfortunately, the link to the original posting is dead, probably because thepurists.com is no longer functioning. 

I guess there's no more evidence on Lange's flawed watch anymore.  But it's important to note...  Don't "fall in love" with any brand.  The brands don't love you back.  And don't become a "fan boy" of any brand because things can always change.  Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, two of the great brands used to make "B" and "C" grade movements with lower finishing, cheaper regulation, etc.  Nobody has a perfect history; and those who do have all the time in the world to ruin it. 

I appreciate the effort, but the result is contradictory.
The main, big flaw is the non in-house movement.
It has been stated that it comes from Cartier, a good movement , likely very carefully finished, but it seems a makeshift choice.
As you reported, the date window is clearly not aligned with numerals.
Are we the only ones who care of this details?
Unfortunately I.Think so.
Imho 😉

"I appreciate the effort" is all that we owe Vacheron Constantin for this creation.

Vacheron Constantin can't give a whole VC movement with high finishing and a Geneva Seal at this price point. Imagine the betrayal their former customers would feel if Vacheron Constantin sold a watch with a movement of the caliber you're expecting at that price... The FIFTYSIX Day Date model which does have a VC movement costs around 17000 CHF in steel. Here you're getting a 100% VC watch. That's probably more up your ally.

No... This is a reasonable action by Vacheron Constantin, they made an exquisite timepiece, albeit one with a movement that was "modified by Vacheron Constantin."

Kind of like my favorite car, the Rolls Royce Wraith. The Wraith's V12 engine is supplied by BMW, another subsidiary in the BMW Group. Rolls Royce does modify it to suit its own purposes and adapt it to better suit the character of a Rolls Royce, but in essence, it's almost identical to the BMW engine. And I don't fault Rolls Royce for doing that. And I applaud Rolls Royce for making the major modifications to adapt the engine to their platform. We both recognize the effort!

What do new collectors, or simply purchasers, buy today?
Brand name (logo), resale value, quality?
We all know the answer.
I absolutely agree with Velociphile,the making of cars is much more expensive, that's why they use modular chassis.
I can buy Skoda with nearly the same quality of VW and Audi, but at cheaper price.
I can buy a Maserati with Ferrari's engineering, or and Audi with Lambo's parts but would you buy a Ferrari with a Maserati's engine, or a Lamborghini with an Audi's engine?
I want to underline that VC is, or was, the state of art in watchmaking.
They should have manufactured a 100% in house movement, no deplo, no golden hands.
A nice designed time only, no frills.
Oh, i don't like those numerals and markers together, either the first or the latter.
JBC introduced a cheap turbo: did it damage the tag-heuer collection?

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“With a price tag of under 12,000 Swiss Francs, the Vacheron Constantin distribution, this watch really brings the world of haute horlogerie to a pricepoint that is accessible for a wide population.”

I think it's not exactly the watch for most PuristSPro readers. Keep in mind, PuristSPro readers are the most sophisticated readers about watches in any public online forum in the world. And I've read many of your posts in the past years Bruno, I know nothing gets past you.

In the article, I did mention some of the "shortcomings" of the Vacheron Constantin movement. But I also wanted to push its strengths; 1, it's a great value; 2, it has the ability to impact a very wide audience that would normally be priced out of a Vacheron Constantin watch.

You're right, to the PuristSPro audience, some will question if it's a truly "high horology" timepiece. Heck, even on PuristSPro, we have readers with very high standards who don't consider it "haute horlogery" unless it's highly finished and with some high complication. Let's say, this would be considered "entry-level haute-horlogerie," and there's nothing wrong with entry level. Porsche's Boxster/Cayman is a great car, I found it better for me than the 911 much of the time.

In the end, it's the effort that Vacheron Constantin has made, and the disruption it will likely create, that makes this watch so significant. It may not affect you and me directly, I'm not likely to be buying one right away. But it will be a watch worn by so many others!

Richemont would just let the various manufacturers be. If you want to buy a VC it should be just that. Why not put a VC movement in a Cartier, that would be a fair trade off.

Compared to other conglomerates, there is relatively very little technology sharing among the brands within Richemont. Each brand does have most of its identity intact. This particular watch just happens to be one that does use a movement from the Richemont group.

But don't you think that the watch is a good deal for a first-time buyer? Do you think its price point allows a lot of people to become more exposed to the world of high horology?

Your point is well taken, I suppose a newbie who starts of here will likely move onto patrimony, overseas etc.
I know JLC did that for me starting with the MUTM then Reverso and finally caliber 2121.

Admittedly, JLC was my first introduction into horology as well. I was mesmerized by the Reverso Duo and the clean art deco design. I never acquired a JLC, but I have to credit JLC as it certainly got me thinking about watches.

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Don’t really understand the value of it; better off buying from another brand at this price tag. Apparently some well known Watch bloggers and website people participated in the design or gave their input .... no more comments

I didn't know that they invited watch bloggers to participate in the design. I can say with certainty that I definitely did not get the invitation. If I had, I would've made much more curvaceous and concave lugs.

The design is definitely a very "middle of the road" design. A very safe design. Maybe a little too safe. Where are the unique lugs?

Here are some things they did do right though.
1. They did do a nice onion crown, and a big crown. I like that. I always find my watch crowns too small. And my manual watches often have even smaller crowns! Torture for the fingers. Lange is one of the brands that actually usually makes better than average crowns.
2. The mixture of brushed, sandblasted, and other surfaces on the dial, the proportions of the numerals, applied numerals, all works out quite nicely. Has a good premium look to it.
3. I do like that folding clasp too. I always like seeing that Maltese cross clasp.

Personally I love VC and possess a few of their creations.
I also value their client treatment.
But...this watch is a missed opportunity imo. The design is too average and the non in- house movement can do more damage than good imo, to the eyes of collectors.
Finally, I appreciate the article but as it does not sound very neutral, it also can damage the independent appeal of our cherished forum.
All the best,
Alex

Trying to be as neutral as I can. I feel that I mentioned where the FIFTYSIX is imperfect, specifically citing the "safe case design" and the "[movement] is a Richemont Group movement with a flat balance spring and standard balance wheel", but I also applaud the effort VC made, the tremendous risk they took that could affect their business model, and the positive attributes to the watch.

This watch is definitely not intended for super collectors, and thus, the article is a little lost on the PuristSPro forum, a forum that appeals primarily to super collectors. But, I was just hoping that despite it's not a watch that appeals to our audience, I wanted to bring out that it was an impressive business decision on VC to take it upon themselves to make this creation!

Lastly, and while I'm not suggesting that you read other websites' views on the FIFTYSIX, almost all the other websites/blogs/news cover the FIFTYSIX with very little mention to the shortcomings this watch has from a collector's point of view. This is more or less the only article on the FIFTYSIX that goes into detail about the movement, and why it's priced this way. Every other website covers the FIFTYSIX from a "non-collector" point of view and doesn't mention the flat hair spring, the annular balance wheel, some mention it's a non-Geneva Seal movement, very few mention it's a Richemont Group movement.

Appreciate the fact that you replied and the additional thoughts.

All points are taken, but to say that the watch is about to disrupt the industry and that it will change the perspective of millenials on haute horlogerie is outside of my reasoning; hence my doubts.

I would agree to this with what Rolex did with Tudor. A monster of a brand (Rolex) with the means and network to change perceptions. Plus the Tudor price points can indeed resonate with millenials, but at 12k, I don't think this can be stated.

These were the reasons why the article sounded out of reasonable perspective and of a 'forced' reasoning.

All good.

Take care,
Alex

Had dinner with some friends and apparently I've got some Millennials who aren't so sure they'd buy this VC.

The Millennials who are watch people and PuristSPro-level watch appreciators state that the date is obviously forced and when they learned the movement doesn't have a Geneva Seal, they immediately inquired if it was sourced externally.

The Millennials who aren't watch people weren't moved by the design, have heard of the VC name, and were convinced that they had to go upmarket by the other guests at dinner who did know something about watches. These Millennials who aren't watch people are now convinced, "a Vacheron Constantin should have a Geneva Seal on its movement."

I agree with the 'they shouldn't have done this' sentiments.
Giving up on Geneva Seal is a cheap move, carefully disguised on their website in the way this piece is presented. At least it leaves a future opportunity for them to proudly announce that, "All of our movements are now Geneva Seal" in a couple of years when this folly has been abandoned. Lol. And we'll all be applauding the new CEOs 'vision'.
I'm really surprised this design got approved with that catastrophically disrupted date window. As to the movement, once seen, the 'spare unused pivot for small seconds' cannot be unseen. It's like finding blanking plates for options you haven't got in a luxury car and stinks of cheap, modularity.
Velociphile

Yes, I really disliked the button blanks in the 996 Porsche 911s. Those were so unattractive. I don't think this piece was intended for collectors on PuristSPro. We'd consider buying one of the higher-end Vacheron Constantin pieces. But, overall, it's a great entry point for a new collector.

It's like buying an Audi A3. Yes, it's the smaller model they make. Yes, it's front wheel drive where most premium cars are rear wheel or all wheel drive. But some people want that Audi safety, Audi design, Audi reputation (non diesel reputation), and Audi infotainment features. Let's give the people what they want!