Patek Philippe

I was reading the FT today and the 'How To Spend It' magazine insert, I noticed with pleasure that there is finally a retreat in sizing up wrist watches. About time too as I was in despair. I really do believe that a watch should be discreet and a silent purveyor of good taste, the big-ben size type of watches have no place in a gentleman's collection.

It is worth noting that some of the top names are returning to slim, small diameter watches and I personally welcome the day that Patek returns to it tradition of yesteryears as I am lost as what to purchase with the current batch. I am a hopeless lover of 33-36 diameter watches harking back to the days when purchasing a watch was an individual experience and not dictated by trend.

Over to you....

I have to get that issue of the FT!

Many, many thanks for this note, as I was, too wondering what "the keeper of good taste and elegance" are doing to themselfs!

A Patrimony in 40 mm, a PP chrono in 42 mm are IMHO watch crimes!

And I do hope that I can express this subjective opinion here.

Complicated 40 mm and more are combined to a tuxedo ???

In the past it was feasible to make also complicated watches well under 40, even 38 mm: PP 5050 35 mm, the UEBER watch 3450 in 37 mm, the mother of all pp chronos 3970 in 36 mm, repeater ... so why all of a sudden going big?

I honestly welcome this rather critical post and suffer also with the current collection from these illustrious manufactures.

As mantioned many times here: a 5119 YG or better 5120 YG is what I call a classic, elegant watch and still, the 5119 YG in particular, is top of my list as next aquisition.

Many thanks!


Regards

Moritz

This message has been edited by COUNT DE MONET on 2010-09-04 12:03:14

I started collecting PP's before the big diameter trend of late.  The other day, I tried on my 1980's Calatrava and it looks like a woman's watch on my wrist.  For me, I have a big wrist and the current larger watches such as the 5960, 5070, 5167 etc just fit better on my wrist and look more proportionate.  If you have a small wrist, get a 5004!  For me, I like the big diameter and it is not because of the "trend" toward big watches during the past decade but rather the proportionality.  I think the guys with big wrists just were not being catered to in the past!

I do not believe that human beings have grown into giants merely that taste has evolved negatively, in my humble opinion.

No message body This message has been edited by =RWK= on 2010-09-09 02:00:35

beyond fashion...there is a place for 32-36mm and their gaint counterparts....its the overall design and the beauty and quality of the movement and case that determines its horological merits.

Since summer of 2009, I remember reading the FT watch editor insisting the industry will return to classicism, traditional values, and smaller watch cases.

In times of unstable economic times, luxury goods companies are hurt tremendously, during these times most firms will take very conservative approaches to maintain their market-share.

Let's see what happens. I can't say that I have really detected a trend yet in what the manufacturers are offering, although it's possible that they are having better luck actually selling the smaller pieces.

I'm pretty sure we will not see 33 and 35 mm again. Ofcourse there will always be exceptions

But  probalby less tha 15% of us would want to wear a 33 or 34 mm watch. I think everething between  39 and 42 is what we can call 'normal' size. Bigger watches between 43 and 46 will always have a place in the market but I do think we have reached a limit. 1 or 2 years ago several brands were making almost every watch in a 45mm or bigger size and that has stopped.

Brands like AP (the ROO) and Panerai can get away with it but we don't need 46mm or bigger  JLC, IWC, Hublot

And the 60mm Egiziano .. well that was even 2 years ago a joke

...bugged my two tone rolex datejust is now officially a womens watch and my patek ellipse 31mm would suit my 8 year old daughter! its sad that I am put off wearing some watches due to a market trend my vintage sea dweller gets all the wrist time now.

I you like to wear a 31 mm watch, why wouldn't you

I wear whatever I want and I don't care what others might think.

I have some Patek with 33 diameters and have the greatest pleasure wearing them, more so than with 36. You should re-evaluate your decision and refuse to be conditioned by trend.

...ellipse, the AD politely mentioned a guy was looking for one for his wife and my  friend said it would suit her, it will not put me off wearing my datejust but I am now on the hunt for a 37mm calatrava.

The Ellipse was / is an unisex model, which is a nice idea in the first place.

Sadly, I noticed also that this 31 mm model is for the contemporary taste a tad small.

The magnification of the current  model 3738  was a very right thought as it looks now even more "credible", convincing or harmonious as a gent's watch, without having lost the unisex appeal.

But overall stands your own perception, feeling about the 31 mm Ellipse.

Obviously you liked it back in the days when you bought it and if it felt right on your individual wrist those days, so it should still.

Regardless any current fashion dictate.

PP offers still the rectangular 5098 in just 32 mm, the UEBER watch 3939 H in 33.5 mm ... .

 

Your 36 mm datejust is still a gent's watch and will be.

The new models, as the Submariners, are far too big and more importantly far too heavy.

I tried a YG new datejust on and the sheer weight of it was really irritating, nothing comfortable.

If I may give you an advise on your next purchase:

- the 5119 YG in 36 mm ---> try it on and you will see how miraculously big it looks on the wrist due to it's classy, open, plain design with a very elaborate case!


Regards

Moritz









This message has been edited by COUNT DE MONET on 2010-09-07 12:41:37 This message has been edited by COUNT DE MONET on 2010-09-07 12:48:12 This message has been edited by COUNT DE MONET on 2010-09-07 12:55:23

I have got several vintage Pateks with incredible case designs and they all are pretty small compared to todays standards - but I do not care at all!

In former times it was an art to produce small and slim watch movements which were accurate enough and reliable even in small cases - much more difficult than building "elephants" like today...

I appreciate the art of the former days - although I have bought a bit larger (37mm) pieces in the last years too like a 5110 world timer which is a beautiful and comfortable size for me.

best

erich

my three Pateks are a vintage Calatrava 96, Calatrava 5053, & Aquanaut 5066A. less is More!!! I hate the current hockey puck bling on the wrist style.