Montblanc

An on-the-wrist appreciation of the Grande Seconde Au Centre Retour-à-Zéro begins with an overview of the watch itself. The R-à-Z is an immaculately executed three-handed watch equipped with a flyback re-set mechanism that allows the owner to accurately and consistently set the time. Even though it's not explicitly marketed as such, this configuration is one that intuitively belongs to the category of observatory designs. A classical movement design imbued with justifiable complexity is one that I can find favor with, so when Anthony asked which Villeret I found most interesting, my response was unequivocal. Many thanks to Montblanc for allowing the pleasure of wearing my dream Villeret for a month. Here's what I found.

Montblanc Villeret 1858 Grande Seconde au Centre Retour-à-Zéro - an "On-the-Wrist" Review

By Art "Dr No" Dakessian

© June 2010

First, the Grande Seconde version is undeniably large by anyone's standards. The specified diameter of 47 mm infers a decision . . .

. . . to accept its considerable size. There is a version with a different base movement at a more manageable diameter of 41 mm, but the Grande version is objectively tolerable on my slender wrist. Here are profile photos taken from different perspectives:

These photos convey the sense of proportion that Montblanc's designers imparted . . . the objectively large size of the case is ameliorated by the relative height, the gently rounded contours, and the hue of rose gold, all of which serve to make its appearance manageable on most wrists. The crown is usefully and pleasingly proportioned to the case. The overall dimensions are driven by the size of the base cal 16-18 movement of 38.4 mm x 6.3mm, but as can be seen by this photo, the movement is proportional to the case:

A compensating ring or case design would've been cause for criticism, so I feel it's only fair to applaud Montblanc for crafting the Grande Seconde with an eye for both proportion and mechanical integrity.

The dial design complements the movement in it's pursuit of extracting the greatest level of accuracy possible. The ability to consistently set the seconds hand to zero by pulling the crown should be obvious to the casual observer. What is not quite so immediately obvious is the manner in which the dial and hands layout similarly facilitates time-setting duties. In this photo . . .

. . . you can see the tip of the seconds hand set to the outer edge of the track, while the minutes hand is precisely set to the inner edge, and the hour hand is circumscribed within the hour track. In the next two photos . . .

. . . the minute hand is clearly sweeping right over the marker, and lined up with the stroke on inner minute marker track. The effect is subtle, but contributes to legibility.

My previous sentiments about the dial were transformed shortly after receiving the Retour-à-Zéro. What at first glance seemed unnecessarily ornate revealed itself to be art in the service of functionality. The central positioning of the hour chapters is, on reflection, a brilliant move on the part of the designer(s) to absorb the vast open space of the dial. The juxtaposition of a short hours to a long minutes hand seems slightly odd until the utility for the placement of the hour chapter was realized. The acclimation process was surprisingly brief, and the initial aesthetic impression left by the two distinctive varieties of engraving with oddly proportioned hands quickly gave way to admiration. If the purpose of a watch is to tell time, and the raison d'être of an exquisite watch is to tell time in a correspondingly exquisite manner, then Montblanc succeeded admirably.

Montblanc's métier is movement construction and finishing . . .

. . . which proved magnificent to the unaided eye, and delectable under magnification. Every visible surface is finished to an exceedingly high level of the watchmaker's art.

Two comments. First, the construction of the cal 16-18 movement conveys an impression of indelible solidity. With some highly finished movements, the attention is first drawn to the details. Not so with the Retour-à-Zéro. The structure itself commands interest. The word "magnificent" comes to mind, and in my opinion, wholly deserved. The architecture, proportions, and most critically, the absolute size of the movement is simply remarkable.

Second, the finishing, while of the highest level, does not overwhelm as some others. The Minerva movement is more seductive than mesmerizing. It doesn't dazzle with intensity; rather, it beckons with a radiant glow.

I'm not sure what to attribute this to; what I can say is that comparisons with other lauded movements will not come up short in any objective sense. One can validly question the comparative intrinsic value of the Minerva movements in the Villeret line, but judging from this and other examples, they can stand up in direct comparison with any production movement under magnification. I've used the analogy of Rubens and Vermeer before . . .

. . . and it bears repeating here.

These close-ups of Minerva chronograph cal 13 - 21 movements . . .

. . . serve to illustrate my point, namely, that the movements offered by Montblanc Villeret reflect established modalities of Swiss movement construction at the highest level.

 Wearing the Grande Seconde Retour-à-Zéro for a month fostered a sense of déjà-vu. I've never carried a pocket watch, but the size, massiveness . . .

. . . ornate dial, voluptuous proportions, and movement construction made me feel as though I were carrying one. There is not a hint of casualness about it. Anyone considering this particular model should not expect to feel an urge to strap it on for a foray to the beach, race track, corner pub, or golf course. The Retour-à-Zéro is a watch that commands respect. The hinged back (seen above), actuated by pressing on a latch hidden . . .

. . . under the alligator covered bridge between the lugs, undoubtedly contributes to that sense. This is, first and foremost, a venerable watch.

The considerable weight of the Grande Seconde incurred one distraction. The tang buckle . . .

 
. . . was secured to the shortest hole on the strap, but even on that tight setting, it still shifted on occasion. Considering that one of the consequences of the design is that an owner must turn to Montblanc for replacement straps to maintain aesthetic continuity with the upholstered section between the lugs, my sense is that Montblanc could turn this limitation into an advantage by supplying each Grande Seconde with an unpunched strap secured by a double-fold deployant, which would permit the boutique an opportunity to precisely tailor the strap for an ideal fit that will be resistant to the shifting I experienced.

The complication offered by the cal 16 - 18 movement is what elevates the Retour-à-Zéro from being merely outwardly beautiful. The facility to set time precisely with absolute consistency is the quality that induced an ineffable bond during my brief stay. Its execution with a visibly complex mechanism that employs a hammer and clutch is what makes the Retour-à-Zéro special. If the purpose of a watch is to tell time accurately and consistently, then the operational aspect of setting time accurately and consistently has been developed in the Retour-à-Zéro to an exceptionally high level. The observed deviation was a gain of 2 seconds per day, which I consider excellent performance. The point of the design and construction of the watch, though, is not the result but rather the path taken. Had the results been marginally different, the gestalt of the watch would've remained intact from my perspective. That the Grande Seconde Retour-à-Zéro exudes elegance . . .

. . . is inarguable. Cordially, Art

 

Copyright June 2010 - Art Dakessian &  PuristSPro.com - all rights reserved

PuristSPro Homepage | ThePuristS Homepage

Comments, suggestions, and corrections to this article are welcomed.  

 

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2010-06-07 23:51:16 This message has been edited by mkt33 on 2010-06-14 07:15:34

Thank you Art for not only the perfect review, but perfectly agreeable review. I say agreeable because I share the exact same sentiments as you regarding the undeniable qualities of this Montblanc Villeret timepiece.

Regarding the case size, your thoughts are exactly the same thought as mine, the case is large and daunting. It makes the watch quite a statement piece. You noticed something that escaped me, the size of the dial and the perfect length of the hands as their radius touch just the edge of the dials. The large hands and overall legibility and design of this watch evokes the memories of observatoire watches. With two seconds accuracy, this watch is accurate enough for an observatoire watch, but it almost seems a bit too delicate, despite its large size. One last mention about the case, I’m very fond of the line on the side of the case that goes from lug to lug, the “stepped” lug is a design feature I’m fond of.

In regards to the movement, my favorite aspect about this watch, you captured it perfectly. The structure of the movement is impeccable; large slow-beat balance wheel with hand-cut spring, curved bridges, both concave and convex bridges reveal a subtle play of light reflection when combined with the lavish finishing bestowed upon these German Silver movements. Lastly, the “structure” itself closely resembles that of a chronograph movement, which I’m sure has to do with the zero-reset second hand. This is perhaps one of the best finished movements on the market today. I would even argue that the finishing on the Villerets exceed the finishing on some of the other most highly respected large brands. Perhaps you put it best; “the Minerva movement is more seductive than mesmerizing.”

Lastly, in regards to the strap, I have to agree with you. The watch does indeed feel top-heavy and the clasp does not feel substantial enough to support it. I completely concur with you that a custom strap ought to be sourced by Montblanc, and Montblanc boutiques should be equipped to punch a single hole for the wearer. A Villeret is such a personal watch that it would greatly benefit from such a personal touch.

Thank you for the great review! A pleasure as always!

. . . despite its large size", is precisely the reason why the R-à-Z succeeds aesthetically, even on my slender wrist. Thank you, Patrick, and hope to see you soon at one of our gatherings . . . most cordially, Art

captivating watch. I liked your comparison to a pocket watch, very true indeed. Thanks for real quality writing and great photographs.
Best,
Tim

. . . it was a pleasure to "borrow" the R-à-Z for a spell, partly because it exudes a pocket watch aura . . . cordially, Art

Wonderfully written.

After wearing this 47mm refined beast on the wrist for an entire month, has your view on large watches changed at all?
Do you think you are more tolerant of watches of this size?

Cheers,
Anthony

. . . skirted the "invisible barrier", and this particular R-à-Z is probably the most successful due to, as Patrick points out, its aesthetic delicacy. Still, when all is said and done, my instinctive preference would be for the standard model in a 41 mm case, preferably in white gold with a black dial . . . cordially, Art

Thanks Art for the in-depth on-the-wrist review.  The 47mm case size is huge, but I'm glad to see that Montblanc designed the retour-a-zero with a proportionate sized movement. 

Regards,
ED-209

. . . that explains why I felt so comfortable with it. It isn't a large watch for the sake of being large, rather, it's large because its form follows its function . . . cordially, Art

Thanks for the wonderful on the wrist review.

The two second deviation is impressive.

Perhaps the proprietary mainspring wire

 

The inhouse created balace wheels, escape wheels, the anchors and the chrono column wheels.

 

Each one custom mated to its partner with perfect harmony by Ms. Wyssmuller and then regulated by Villeret's watchmakers

 

Makes a measurable difference!

 

Best, Mike

 

. . . has the goods in spades! Cordially, Art

Great article and pics. But from my point of view this is a truly 100% Minerva and not a Montblanc watch. Minerva was acquired by Richemont some years ago and integrated into Montblanc. What a pity :-( The watch would be more attractive with the name Minerva on the dial.

Cheers,
biowatch

and wrong at the same time.

Biowatch,

Since your first post on 11/5/2008 you have said the same thing.

In the last year and a half, has Montblanc not proved itself a capable partner with the financial resources to allow Mr. Cabiddu and the other wonderful craftsmen at Minera to continue their work in Villeret?

The Retour A Zero was a new model once MB joined in the partnership.

So was the Grande Chronographe Regulateur.

 

Did the Exotourbillon not impress this year?

Was the Metamorphosis lacking in innovation?

 

All partnerships share in the same successes and failures.  Thus they should also share in the banner.

Do we not see this in the watch world?

Greubel Forsey, MB&F etc...

I am happy that Montblanc decided NOT to erase Minerva completely from the watch.  They could have, but they didn't.  In fact they display the name proudly where it belongs...on the movement.  The Montblanc name is on the dial, where it belongs because the watch dial and aesthetics are from the MB designers.  I cannot think of a more equal way of doing this.

 

If the original Minerva watch was so beautiful and attractive the original company would have survived...It wouldn't have needed two different partners/owners over the last decade to ensure its survival.

Thoughts about these comments?  Please do not take the talking points personally, I am just interested in why you continue to hold the same position as you did back in 2008.

Regards,

Mike

This message has been edited by mkt33 on 2010-06-08 16:48:35

Hi Mike,

don't worry. I don't take your comments personally Minerva is one of my favourite watch brands. I own 4 Minervas's (two Chrono's with the wonderful 13-20 and two Pythagore from the late 90/early 2000 with the calibre 49) and for me they produced wonderful and timeless pieces till end of the Frey era. I had a lot of concerns when the Gnuti group took over despite the fact that they continue to made wonderful watches but now with a complete new target group. When the Riechemont group took over a couple of years later I was optimistic that they will re-launch Minerva as an "independent" brand. I believe that the brand would have the potential to survive. So I was disappointed when I heard the news that Riechemont will use the movements for high end Montblanc watches. I would never by a Montblanc despite the fact that the movement is from Minerva. From my point of view Montblanc has no real expertise in watchmaking. Don't understanding me wrong. They have some nice timepieces and they did an excellent job over the past years. But they bought the expertise with the money from Richemont respectively the money they earned with their pens and build up a new business. That's so far ok but it is now big business and has nothing to do with the charming small company from the past.

So my view is an extremely emotional one. In general you are absolutely right with your Montblanc comment and they have my respect that the name Minerva is still on the movements (good marketing ).

Kind regards,
biowatch

This watch is also my fav from the Villeret line, but I am still disturbed by the excess and unnecessary text on the dial.
I think a small change there would increase the enjoyment several-fold.
Don

. . . coming from the moderator's Moderator, your kind words are deeply appreciated . . . most cordially, Art

Thanks Art,

 

It has the feel of a Regulateur, which I like, but with greater legibility.

 

Emotionally I like the idea of Regulators: the separation of hours, minutes and seconds to facilitate the accurate reading of time. But in practice I find them difficult to use. But MB have achieved something special in this regard and capped it off with the Retour-à-Zéro function.

 

Nice.

 

Andrew

People have asked me what "Claytons" refers to and I have now realised that the description has not translated well internationally.

Claytons is a non-alcoholic mixer that had a successful advertising campaign in the 1970's in Australia and New Zealand with the tag line: "The drink you have when you're not having a drink". So it has come to refer to things that are not quite correct copies or inferior alternatives to the real thing.

Andrew

. . . researching "Clayton's regulateur/tor" and all I could find was a hydraulic project in South Australia!! I can be elliptical at times, but dam, that was a stretch ;-) . . .

--and prescriptive from Dr. No. Thanks for the personal travelogue with the watch. I think you know I'm a fan of the MB Villeret line.

m

Enjoyed the pics!

loved your ... allow me to call it watch reading DR.NO , a watch with its own atmosphere.. i like.

 

 Faisal

 

 

. . . many thanks, Art

I would like to see it in the metal one day but I suspect 47mm is too much for me.

Do you think that the upholstered section between the lugs adds anything to the aesthetics of this watch? As you state, you may only use MB straps with this piece.

Regards,

Richard.

. . . consider it an enhancement per se. My sense is that it's the an artful solution to the problem of concealing the latch. If the Grande Seconde didn't have a hinged back and there was no latch to conceal, then the gap between the lugs would be cavernous. In these photos, you can see the "step" created by the leather covering:

It covers what would normally be empty space, which could be a problem with a watch as large as this. The serious practical drawback is the absolute limitation with regards to strap options. Even this sample shows a slight variation between the permanent covering and the strap, and once it ages, the variation might be more pronounced, particularly after re-strapping. Something to consider, in my opinion, and the one aspect of the design that could bear additional attention from the manufactory . . . cordially, Art

Having seen the watch in person on more than one occasion now, I would have to agree that it's not a watch for the family beach outing or running around town getting groceries.  It's a watch to wear with a suit or on more elegant occasions.  There's a serious beauty to this watch and its movement.  I love the dial on this piece and find the layout of the numerals coupled with the guilloche mesmerizing.  The movement design and finishing is also very much to my taste and I especially enjoy the little Minerva touches (arrow motif, for one).

Thanks for the review.  I enjoyed reading more about one of my favorite pieces in the Villeret collection.

Cheers,
Daos

. . . my planned action video of wearing the R-à-Z while surfing hadn't been interrupted ;-) . . .

...What an elegant watch!  The alligator covered bridge between the lugs is a small detail that makes such a huge difference in my opinion in contributing to the watch's elegance with smooth continuous lines. 

Sorry for the delayed feedback.  Great review!   

I have just fallen on this superb article, Art, and I must say that I was delighted to read it.

I am not shocked at all by the size.

Minerva made some big watches, and why not seeing them nowadays?

The movement is just superb, the dial is great looking, and I find the case a tad too thick, but it is still very elegantly shaped.

I discovered it thanks to you, and I don't know if I have to thank you.

All the best!

Nicolas

. . . if one ends up in your collection, Nico.