Breguet

Last year Breguet snatched the limelight announcing their High Frequency (HF), 10Hz  Chronograph, the  3880 ST. A production model and not prototyping. 
Breguet housed their first HF in the TYPE XXII collection.  The 10Hz  (72,000 VPH) movement with silicon escapement and flat balance spring is cased in a 44mm diameter 100m water-resistance rated steel case. 

HF movement ( 5Hz and above) is known to be more accurate and provide a higher resolution chronograph.  The 3880 ST records down to 1/10 of a second and its chronograph second-hand completes a single rotation in 30 seconds instead of typical 60 seconds.  Reading the timing , will need some practises.

Though the 3880 ST was launched last year, it is not easily seen.  However a finalised piece landed in Singapore Boutique recently and likely it has flown off the shelf.

Some pictures of the production model of the TYPE XXII 3880 ST 10Hz Chronograph with Flyback .....



44mm diameter steel case with fluted caseband.  Bezel is bi-directional and marked with 60-min scale.

Black dial with prints in red and white.

The hour indexes are printed in white and red to have sort of stereoscopic 3D effect like some Anaglyph images.

But it has a functional purpose too for the chronograph reading, which will revisit at the end of this post.



Subdial 9H is the small-second on a 30-second per round, Second time zone indicator is represented by sub-dial 6H with date and at 3H, it is 24 hour indicator.

For both the hands in the centre, the Red chronograph’s seconds hand runs on a 30-second basis, while the White hand with a diamond-shaped tip, is a half-minute totalizer,








Signed Breguet crown, with 4 positions. 

Positon #1 is the crown is screwed in, #2 is for manual winding, #3 is for the time-zone and date setting (which should be the time the city you are in) and #4 is for the reference time (your domicile location) .

The pusher at 2H is the Start-Stop of the chronograph while the ....


pusher at 4H which is marked with two red bands  is to reset the chronograph and also the flyback  actuator too.

Pushers tactile is smooth and positive.




As for the caseback, it has not much to see.  The steel caseback covers most of the automatic10Hz Breguet. Cal. 589F which has a 45-hour power-reserve. 
Per instructions, with about 40 rounds turning of the crown, will achieve full-winding of the movement.

A keyhole to peep at the escapement ...


In the crown up position, the rotor partially painted red will block the escapement....


Turning it over will expose the escapement, giving a view of the  ...


Silicon escapement and flat balance spring.





Taking the read out of the 3880 ST ....


A point to note the 3880 ST chronograph could accurately record under 1 hour ...



1) To read, first note the location of the centre minute-hand (white with red diamond tip, M60 ),  that's the direct minute reading.

2) Then note which colour it is pointing at.... (Red or White on the B60). 

If it is red, then the red centre second-hand  ( S30) is still within the 0 to 30 second  zone.  

Otherwise the red centre second-hand  ( S30) should be pointing at the white bar, indicating it is now in the 31 to 60 second zone.

3) Get the reading for second ...

and

4) Get the reading for 1/10 sec.







Two examples from Breguet Instruction manual ....







Reference to Diagram A and the steps mentioned above :

1) Note M60-hand location for minute reading.  Where it is pointing on the outer-most  band B60?
After 53 min

So the minute reading is  53 minutes!

2) What colour bar was M60-hand pointing at?

Pointing at the end of the red bar (ie before 30 sec).


3) Now see where is the red-hand S30 on the B30-band ?
28 Sec

4) Its not over yet.  Now for the 1/10 second ... where exactly is S30 pointing within the minute?
3.  Thus it is 3/10.

So the full chronograph reading is 53 mins 28 sec 3/10





One more example .... full reading is in the diagram 



A fast lume shot indicating which or what will illuminate at low light.  Beautiful Blue when fully charged.



A wristshot.


A video previously taken ....




At 44mm, some think it is big, but I felt it is wearable on my small wrist. The chronograph second-hand glides smoothly over the dial and the actuators are smooth. 
Reading where the markers are pointing is a bit challenging for me, (think hyperopia is setting in), and the reflective crystal does not help either.  Perhaps the crystal should be both sides anti-reflective coated to reduce glare.
Wonder how Breguet and others (brands attempting HF Chronograph) will redesign for faster and easier readout of the chronograph timing.

Before I end the post, another 2 pictures, see if you can interpret the readings correctly



Diagram # 1


Diagram #B


Thanks for viewing.

Kong





This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2011-06-12 12:19:50

This message has been edited by Kong on 2011-06-22 01:48:15

but I find the execution needlessly complex. I think if they hadn't included the second timezone and used that dial at 3 o'clock as a 15 min totalizer or something more chrono-centric. It just seems that they dropped too much of the chroo function to add in the TZ

A

It is not easy to read,and indeed, as you say, the subdial at 3H can be some of more chrono-centric.

Thanks for viewing.
Kong

It's very cool. It has Breguet DNA. I find the dial very busy, but... this may be the idea... The peek a boo in back is fun. Also reminds the owner that this watch comes from a premier house... It's not my Breguet but I have to say they did a nice job, retaining their OWN blood and bones... and not copying AP, Rolex, or Panerai...

I owned a Type 21 for a while... it's a stunning dial and the dial-quality is up there with 50K plus watches, IMHO... these are special watches.... I don't 'get' the crazy hertz thing, I guess it's that we live in mad-fast times? Whatever... I applaud Breguet for combining extreme-sport with true, recognizable Breguet DNA and --I bet--doing it at the highest level....

Haha....Mostel, I like that.

This HF / Hertz thingee, perhaps is a reason to a provide more value-added with silicium escapement than the typical need no oil,  and at high 10Hz ,can measure at finer resolution

Enjoy your Type 21!

Thanks for viewing.

Kong

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i like the Dial Layout and color scheme.

 thanks for posting

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This is a powerhouse watch...I exceptionally like the way the second hand glides across the dial fluidly.

this model retains the dna and takes a bold step to rival the zenith striking 10th...not my cup of tea but well done breguet!

of the Breguet 10Hz is smoother than Zenith Striking 10th from my observation.

Thanks for viewing.

Kong

Thanks for the instructive post. 

Considering that the type XXII  wiht the HF movement features an impressive innovation, i think it has not received the attention it deserves. I  find  the 30 seconds totalizer way better than the solution with a small aperture that was shown a year ago on the 2010 presentation model. Obviously the unanimous critique of the PuristS was heard by Breguet. The 30 second totalizer might be still not that easy to read but it seems tat with a little bit of practice it can be done without too much trouble.

I agree with the other comments that using two subdials for a second timezone is not a good choice for a chronograph. Wouldn't the logical choice be to use the subdial at 6 for the hourcounter? (this is a chronograph, after all). One subdial  is sufficient to show a second time zone, if this is reallz needed.

Finally, the keywholes on the back of the case are not my cup of tea. In fact, it doesn't look bad, but it is not consistent. If you have a nice movement and you want to show it, make a crystal back. If you dont want to show it or the type of watch does not allow for a crystel back, fair enough, a solid case back is the solution. Everything inbetween does not make sense to me.

Overall, certainly an interesting extension of the XX collection - i am looking forward to see it metal.

Best,

Stefan

Hi Stefan

Thanks for the inputs,and hope Breguet and also other brands intending a 10Hz Chronograph will take note too.

It is true with some practise, the readout could be easy. Strangely nobody answers my last two questions, perhaps I need to source for some Breguet gifts    You have to see it in metal but I find it challenging to read.  Aesthetically it is better to drop the initial aperture for 30sec totalizer, it may be easier to read.

Better use of subdials is definitely needed to be reviewed.  You made a valid point.

As for the keyhole or peep-hole, likely is to hide the movement from other brands, as more could be on similar path of HF movements.  So instead able to retrieve the information from the forums, may have to pay for a piece to open up the caseback to see more

Thanks for viewing.

Kong

Hot looking Breguet. Cool dial and caseback. Thanks for posting, Kong.

Hi Davo

See if you can check out this piece in metal.

Pretty cool, now can do 1/10th second. But whoever can design a fast read-out should be the winner ...otherwise most will still prefer the G-Shock

Thanks for viewing.

Kong

Fantastic write-up Kong!

Looking forward to seeing (and hearing) the other HF movements in the near future!

Hi;
I started a search for a "low key" travel watch. I used to travel with my Daytona (Zenith) but feel it garners a bit more attention than I would like as a tourist is foreign countries. So I set off to get a watch a good friend has, the XXI. It seems he can ride the subway and nobody knows what it is!
While looking for the XXI at my local AD he showed me an practically unused Marine Big Date at a price I couldn't resist. So I left the store with the Marine, very very happy! But I felt I hadn't really accomplished what I set out to do so I returned to the sport watch concept and made another run at the XXI. I like so much about the XXI I thought this was a done deal.
I tried on the steel XXI then the titanium XXI. My preference was for the steel version.
Then, for grins, I noticed the XXII and decided to try it on. I left the store to so some research an soul searching and decided I wanted to add a higher end sport watch to my collection. I checked out alternatives such as the Royal Oak, Overseas among others. There was something about the Royal Oak that didn't wow me (I know I am in a minority) but I did like the Overseas.
I am a tech guy at heart and admire well engineered products, be they cars, audio equipment, watches, etc. I was intrigued by the new tech in the XXII and the potential precision it offered. And I liked the complications and capabilities of the watch. A couple weeks later I returned to the AD and bought the XXII.
I have a rotation of 6 favorite watches and each gets wrist time or wound every 2-3 weeks. But I find the XXII and Marine are on my wrist most often.
The XXII takes a bit of getting used to but I have figured it our. And I really admire the 10Hz technology which is leaps an bounds ahead of the Royal Oak and Vacheron. The watch is an unknown quantity to most people and does not shout like some of the other similarly priced sport watches. But I know what I have on my wrist and if somebody takes the time to really look (only fellow watch people would) it is a conversation piece.
The quality of construction is excellent. The operation of the chronograph is smooth and precise. The 30 second sweep around the dial allows for reading elapsed time with twice the precision of other chronographs. I like that.
I agree the face is rather busy but I think it is appropriate for the mission of this watch. Once you get used to its quick glance offers clear reading of 2 time zones. And my aging eyes appreciate the clarity of the basic task a reading the current time. Lume is long lasting too.
So yes, as I said in the title, I love my XXII!
As for my trip coming up in another month I plan to wear the Marine. Smaller, more discrete and so comfortable.
What is it about Breguet that makes them so unrecognized? I think that is an advantage. I have other watches that "announce" themselves more obviously but my preference is the Breguet style.
Next one I am eyeing is a Classic in gold with some complication. Until then I am one happy camper!!
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