Part 3 - Magali Metrailler and the world's strongest case? (photo of new chrono!)

Mar 02, 2005,12:24 PM

(Magali Metrailler, Jaeger-LeCoultre Creative Designer)

When a young product designer Magali Metrailler joined Jaeger-LeCoultre 4 years ago, few expected her to make any impact on a very traditional company. Knowing Magali, few should be surprise that her fiery and idealistic nature could rock the boat.

(Le Corbusier had a new approach to experience life by being in tune to the senses and close to details, Magali designs in a similar vein)

Magali likes the architect Antoni Gaudi because Gaudi's church designs were totally unconventional and in her own words "It is a crazy design and they didn't look like the churches of his time". She loves Joan Miro because she saw him as a surrealist dreamer.

(This is the color of my dreams!)

In her commercial product design training, continuous aesthetic breakthroughs are assumed to be essential and breaking a tradition is perceived as a rise above mediocrity. The first thing she learnt in her new home is that watch people worship tradition, brand authenticity and the brand pedigree.

(From left, The new compressor push button. Since it is assumed to be more frequently used, it now takes only a quarter turn to lock and unlock and the Jumping Minute counter)

Magali understood and didn't feel this as a limitation, but if there was a case which Magali needs to tone down, her determination to push her ideas through should not be it. For example, when she proposed her open concept date window for the Master Compressor Automatic, the then conservative technical department was probably horrified and told her that it was technically impossible.

(From left, The chrono hour disc turns instead of the hand and on the right is the Tachymeter scale)

(Quarter Turn Compressor Push button)

Magali was not intimidated, she sought opinions from every watchmaker she personally know and went back to confront the technical department. The result was the slightly modified Calibre 960M - and no prize for guessing what the "M" stands for.

(Straps change is effortless, a push of the button releases the strap, to fit it back, just align and push to snap in)

Marketing & Communication Director Stephane Belmont, who is a senior executive in the manufacture for many years described Magali as a young designer who wants to change everything, "she dreams and she fights for new designs and new materials all the time. The more experienced group may know what works and what doesn't, at least most of the time, but the constant challenge from the younger generation has improved the dynamics and provided a better balance to the manufacture", according to Stephane.

(Work in progress designs)

Creative Director Janek Deleskiewicz is practically the establishment in Jaeger-LeCoultre and he described Magali as "talented" and has "done very well". If Magali argued with her colleagues over designs, it was always reconciled with just a few drinks. The only thing she needs to do perhaps is to "keep her feet on the ground?, said Janek, referring to some of her wilder design ideas.

(Work in progress designs)

For Magali, working for Jaeger-LeCoultre has been a refreshing experience. If argued over ideas, it was because all of us want to do what's best for the company", said Magali, "and this is a great company where all of us are proud to be working for".

After working 4 years for JLC, she also learns a very important lesson; she understood the basic need to respect the brand tradition and yes, each watch must clearly be a JLC.

Even after her repeated success, Magali remains humble and retains a subtle hint of nervousness (at least to me). She attributed her success, if true, to the the generous opportunities given by the manufacturer.

That doesn't mean Magali will stop fighting. And that, could be a very good thing indeed!

(Work in Progress designs)

The first Reverso was built on the request of the Polo Players. While the 1931 Reverso probably won't survive a bad knock, it was JLC's first true sport watch (as being actually used in the sport of Polo). Incidentally, the 1965 Memovox was also the first waterproof alarm watch.

(Richard Meier, the American architect explores shapes, forms and BREAK the rules so that people can connect and experience the space, Magali hopes to use the same principle in her designs)

While the Autotractor movements were meant to resist more shock, it is probably unwise to wear Master Home Time for extreme sports:
1. 1G is the measurement of normal gravity on earth, 2G of thrust is enough to blind a person and cause a human to faint. Even professional pilot with anti-G gear could not resist a force more than 5G.

2. A watch however can subject to a level of impact of 50 - 100G of shock when playing golf, Ice climbing as much as 200 - 300G and competitive Mountain biking as much as 400 - 500G and Extreme sports impact can be as high as 600 -700G

(The surrealist painter, Magritte CHALLENGES social codes and references. In doing so, he urges us to free our minds of conventions to live life fully, according to Magali)

3. A true extreme sport watch, should be tested and proven not only able to withstand the extreme impacts and vibration without damage but more critical, should be able to withstand those shocks without affecting the watch accuracy!

(Research shows that shock in the direction of Z can be most damaging to a watch, The Compressor Extreme World Chronograph must be able to withstand shock from x and Z and anywhere between, i.e. y)

(The new Compressor Extreme World Chronograph - In case you are confused with some of the Magali drawings, there are 2 new Chronographs, this one is the Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph)

Newton's Second Law F = ma states that Force applied is directly correlated to the mass of the object, so titanium (density = 4.8g/cm3) is used as the movement case metal because it is tough and at the same time, light.

In the new Compressor Extreme World Chronograph, A Titanium movement case housing sits snugly on a Stainless Steel outer case (or a platinum one), suspended by 4 springs and an absorber chamber filled with air (lab tested with Helium to ensure airtight chamber, but filled with air on actual delivered product)

The mirror polished Stainless Steel (density of 7g/cm3) or the platinum (density of 20g/cm3) outer housing was not used just for aesthetic reason. The 2 different metal housings are able to deflect the force (alter direction) when a shock is applied from direction x.

To be continued


(Shock protection crown)


(The new Master Compressor Chronograph, this photo is being published for the first time in public - All chronographs are alike? Magali wants the 2 Compressor Chronos to be different)


(The initial target case diameter for the Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph was 45mm, but the anti shock mechanism and the integrated strap changing mechanism takes up every available space, the final watch diameter? 46.3mm and yet still wearable)


How does the Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph measures in a real shock test?

Watch this space!

More posts: Extreme World ChronographMaster CompressorMaster Compressor AutomaticMaster Compressor ChronographMaster Compressor Extreme World ChronographMemovoxNew Master Compressor Chronograph

  login to reply

Comments: view entire thread


The true blue Jaeger-LeCoultre pedigree in Chronograph watchmaking

 By: Jaw : February 28th, 2005-11:11
From an etymological standpoint, chrono-graph means ?writing the time?. The chronograph invented by Rieussec in 1821 (patented in 1822) literally placed a drop of ink to mark the end of the measurement (while the hand continued turning). Strictly speaking...  

A great watch...

 By: Dje : February 28th, 2005-11:11
seems to be coming. Jaw you are perfect to make us desire. Thank you for your new input to our JLC knowledge. A great story full of wonders. We are getting closer to the jewel.

Thanks Dje...

 By: Jaw : March 6th, 2005-05:05

Pining for more info...

 By: John : February 28th, 2005-12:24

Mechanized production elsewhere

 By: Aaron : February 28th, 2005-03:15
I'm interested in the date of the first production of JLC's chronograph movements by machine and whether they really pre-date the Waltham patents on the subject(1880, with production soon after). This was the pinnacle of American movement production as ca...  

Great prologue Jaw!

 By: damien : March 1st, 2005-06:06

To be continued.......Arghhhh

 By: Jokoh : February 28th, 2005-07:19
Everytime I watch a series that says "To be continued", I get very jittery. As always, its like nearing the murder scene. The suspense of waiting till next week!! I love chrono, I'm willing to wait as I know JLC will not let me down Thanks again ... 

Thanks for the heads up Jaw, what's that 2.....

 By: watchculture : February 28th, 2005-09:21
circular thin tubes on the Cal 19 CCRM for ? >>>>>Zach T

2 hammers at the top edge....

 By: watchculture : March 1st, 2005-07:07

Did Jaeger also develop the jumping minute counter for lange?

 By: furen : March 1st, 2005-01:01
Greetings, Was the chronograph movement not released because they let Lange use the innovation, the same way they let lange use the big date mechanism first? thanks for the write-up! I can't wait to see the watchmaker's watchmaker chronograph. Francis

the Jumping Minute function is actually not an innovation from JLC

 By: clavi : March 1st, 2005-01:01
the Jumping Minute feature is not something new in chronographs. For example, the rather old and common Valjoux 72 and Lemania 321 feature this function. Therefore it can't be something that JLC saved for Lange use only, as you can find it on many other c... 

semi-instantaneous is not the same as instantaneous

 By: ei8htohms : March 5th, 2005-08:08
Hi Guys, Lange's minute counter is instantaneous. Precisely at the 60 second mark, the minute hand jumps instantly to the next minute. Most minute counters are semi-instantaneous. A few seconds before the minute changeover they start to creep a little and... 


 By: Jaw : March 5th, 2005-07:19

I am speculating here

 By: Jaw : March 1st, 2005-02:02
The calibre 829 project was costly, but possibly due to the ready availability of lesser chronographs at cheaper prices, the response from the market wasn't exactly hot then. Gunter Blumlein was one of the most (if not the emost) admired industry leaders.... 


 By: furen : March 1st, 2005-05:05

Part 2 - The revived calibre 930 and a never before published PHOTO of a new watch!

 By: Jaw : March 1st, 2005-08:08
For most technical watch brands, a minimum of a clear 5 year product strategy is essential. The ability to continuously produce innovations that meet high expectations is a real challenge for most. Jaeger-LeCoultre, in contrast, has many working prototype...  

I am under shock right now!!

 By: Dje : March 1st, 2005-09:09
Thank you Jaw for all this precise report (I am eagerly waiting for part 3). This new caliber seems amazing. AMAZING!! You say it incorporates ALL autotractor improvements, so I guess it is an automatic caliber? I hope to know soon what is the use of the ... 

Re: looks fabulous and exciting blend of functions...but I fear....

 By: stultus77 : March 1st, 2005-09:09
...that this is going to be quite a MASSIVE case. Not to jump the gun, Jaw, but any idea of the case size? - Daniel

Thanks Jaw for >>

 By: Velociphile - No longer in the building : March 1st, 2005-10:10

Excellent reporting!

 By: wisemoth : March 1st, 2005-10:10
Thanks Jaw for another fantastic report, nicely split for drama and suspense ! A lovely addition to the Compressor range.

Gorgeous watch....

 By: Spiros : March 1st, 2005-10:10

Jaw (and JLC) thank you!

 By: Todd Warnke : March 1st, 2005-12:24
I have been lookng for "One Watch" to wear for 95% of what I do. I need a chrono, and it needs to be sporting enough for hiking, biking and playing with my two boys. But it also needs to be something special enough for me to hand down to one of those two ... 

Wonderful report!

 By: Gary : March 1st, 2005-12:24

Jaw, Thank you very much for a wonderful review. (more)

 By: rodaballo : March 1st, 2005-12:24
Do you know if JLC is planning a chronograph in the Master series? Best wishes antonio

Thanks for the report Jaw. Very interesting reading. Do love the fact that MJLC can..

 By: 219 : March 1st, 2005-03:15
design, manufacture and construct a movement and case from scratch. Such a unique firm within the industry. Andrew H


 By: Jaw : March 6th, 2005-05:05

Only current Integrated World Time Chrono...

 By: Jaw : March 2nd, 2005-12:24
World Timer (no dual time), no split and a seconds disc indicator at 6 o'clock Jaw

Wow! Thanks again for a fabulous writeup Jaw.

 By: damien : March 1st, 2005-07:19
Overall a well balanced dial, the most symmetrical compressor dial yet. The 30 minute subdial gets an unusual treatment - at first glance it looks like the normal date dial. IMHO, the hands on the 30 minute subdial are too different from the hour subdial.... 

Wow !

 By: Praveen : March 1st, 2005-08:20
Jaw !! My Jaw(s) are wide open !! Sorry What a beautiful report ! What a beautiful watch - Now how do i justify this to my wife.... Hmm... Waiting for more Jaw, Keep up the stellar work ! P

Thanks Praveen..

 By: Jaw : March 6th, 2005-05:05


 By: jimsbk : March 1st, 2005-10:22
Fantastic and thank you Jaw for the scope! Regards Jim

What interest me are the 4 springs.....................

 By: Zach T : March 2nd, 2005-07:07
looks like it acts to provide a suspension system for the movement when it's subjected to impact or shock. A cool piece of engineering art. Thanks for sharing,Jaw. >>>>>Zach T

good guess! (nt)

 By: Jaw : March 6th, 2005-05:05

Another good job done by MJLC...

 By: Chai : March 3rd, 2005-03:03
The case design, layout of the dial, the anti-shock system with the case, the movement, and etc... All these are so well executed and I really like it... BTW, Can someone tell me what is the function of the disc with red and white colours? Chai

Another thank you note.

 By: jaspert : March 2nd, 2005-02:02

Part 3 - Magali Metrailler and the world's strongest case? (photo of new chrono!)

 By: Jaw : March 2nd, 2005-12:24
(Magali Metrailler, Jaeger-LeCoultre Creative Designer) When a young product designer Magali Metrailler joined Jaeger-LeCoultre 4 years ago, few expected her to make any impact on a very traditional company. Knowing Magali, few should be surprise that her...  

Many many thanks again Jaw. Some questions if I may >>

 By: Velociphile - No longer in the building : March 2nd, 2005-01:13

Thanks again Jaw.

 By: damien : March 2nd, 2005-03:15

Slight historic correction

 By: clavi : March 2nd, 2005-03:15
I will be my boring self again and do a minor correction to your JLC history introduction. The memovox was actually not "the the first waterproof alarm watch" when it came in 1965. This title is held by the Vulcain Cricket Nautical, launched in 1961, and ... 

Thanks Clavi, after checking with a historian...

 By: Jaw : March 7th, 2005-06:06
Not only the 1965 memovox wasn't the first waterproof alarm watch, it wasn't even the first JLC waterproof alarm watch!, the facts was misquoted because of some mis-communications. The first JLC waterproof alarm watch was actually the Deep Sea, a modele c...  


 By: clavi : March 8th, 2005-06:06
I didn't know that the DeepSea was from 1961 also. I have seen it bearing bothe the US LeCoultre and the swiss Jaeger leCoultre names on dial (see this example of swiss dialed one)

Thank you, Jaw, for our daily dose of these new chronographs.

 By: Ruckdee : March 2nd, 2005-06:18
I like the engineering spirit exuding from them. The size is prohibitive indeed and I believe the price will be the same. Can't wait to see what JLC will offer for the non-Compressor series, chronograph or not. Ruckdee

In my personal opinion, the price is so reasonable that

 By: Jaw : March 2nd, 2005-08:20
the mid to high end chronograph market will never be the same again, what do you think if I say it will PROBABLY priced below the Girard-Perregaux But don't take

Master Series chrono as well ??

 By: Chris Launder : March 2nd, 2005-11:23
Hi JAW , Thankyou for an excellent coverage of the new JLC Chrono , something I have been looking forward to for some time , both are excellent pieces of engineering !! The question several have asked , but have not yet ascertained , is there also going t... 

Thank you Jaw

 By: Dje : March 2nd, 2005-11:23
for getting us further inside this nex marvel. Each step makes me love it more. The non-extreme compressor chronograph is stunning. I can't wait to see a steel on strap one. You say that it may probably priced under the GP WWTC. I guess you are talking of... 

Never before published photo of Stainless Steel Compressor Chronograph

 By: Jaw : March 3rd, 2005-12:12
(Master Compresor Chronograph, Stainless Steel version) Jaw...  

Jaw I love your secret signature. Class, understated, discreet!

 By: Dje : March 3rd, 2005-01:01
By the way, could we know the siez of the "simple" compressor chrono? Thank you

Is it correct that this version does not have the Ti subchassis? ...

 By: Marcus Hanke : March 4th, 2005-04:04
I do not see the "inlay" around the pushers/crown, which is present on the Extreme worldtimer version, so I assume this varaint has a more conventional case layout? Regards, Marcus

F=ma point of order and other concerns >>

 By: MTF : March 2nd, 2005-06:18
Jaw, Thanks for the fascinating series. I have 2 points of order. 1st: Force = Mass x Acceleration; so for a given external force (impetus), the acceleration of the watch would be less (i.e. less rate of change of velocity or displacement) if the Mass was... 

The question of "Force", may the force be with you...

 By: Jaw : March 2nd, 2005-08:20
Impact is exerted when the watch is stopped from acceleration, the acceleration just before the impact is the a, the force exerted on impact correlates to mass. It takes much more force to stop your "Densitometrium" than Titanium during impact with the sa...  

Based on this data, the watch can pass a 7000g test>>

 By: Velociphile - No longer in the building : March 3rd, 2005-04:04

thank you....

 By: teckmeng : March 2nd, 2005-10:22

Really got to see this baby in the flesh...

 By: Jokoh : March 3rd, 2005-01:01
Hi Jaw, 1st of all, thank you for all the hard work in bringing us this 1st hand wonder you "disappeared" for a long time , JLC is my 1st passion and will always be Most of the questions I wanted to ask have been answered...especially the gigant... 


 By: jlouissaul : March 3rd, 2005-06:06
Jaw, Thanks for wonderful photo essay. This site sets new standards; bringing the latest improvements to an eager audience! I have a question concerning the sizes of the NEW Master Chronographs, the Extreme is 46.3 mm, but I don't see a mm size for the Ma... 

This is one tough lady &.........

 By: Zach T : March 3rd, 2005-09:09
one tough watch . I can imagine the scene in their meeting room with technical drawings all over the table, formulas and calculations being challenged,all in a day's work in a Design department.....sounds so familiar. Thank you for this very well written ... 

Amazing stuff....

 By: hjuanie : March 4th, 2005-05:05

Part 4 - A Commercial break (Press Release)

 By: Jaw : March 3rd, 2005-10:10
Compressor Chronograph Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph: when the hand of time is pointing to sport. The Master Compressor Chronograph and the Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph represent a new horological peak for the master-watchmake...  

So the counter at 6 is the power reserve indicator?

 By: Dje : March 3rd, 2005-11:11
Two last questions: Do we get a 40 mm classic case (? la Hometime)? Do we get a 40 mm Aston Martin case? Perhaps some answers tomorrow!! Thank you very much Jaw! What a week!

Thanks very much Jaw for all your efforts and pictures.

 By: ddpd : March 3rd, 2005-01:13
I have been looking for a new chrongraph, but wanted to wait till all the manufacturers released their items. These would have to be the most technologically advanced chronos on the market and knowing how JLC usually underprices their wares compared to ev... 

it has to be said

 By: ei8htohms : March 3rd, 2005-06:18
Hi Jaw, The chronograph section of this movement bears an incredibly strong resemblance to the Piguet 1185 and I've got to take exception with this line: "Obviously, this is a more complicated solution than that employed by other watchmakers. . . " A sign... 

Wow, there?s still more to come? :-)

 By: vlim : March 3rd, 2005-07:19
Thanks Jaw for the preview of the new watch and movement! I can?t wait to see the watch and try out the chronograph function. Vernon

Only 100m WR...

 By: Jokoh : March 4th, 2005-12:12

Really can't wait to see the real things...

 By: Chai : March 4th, 2005-02:02
BTW, are Calibre 751 & 752 autotrack? Chai

A quartz-driven mechanical chronograph

 By: Aalok : March 4th, 2005-07:07
Hi Marie, Until the current product annoucements, the only round JLC chronographs made in recent years have been a hybrid quartz-mechanical watch. The watch keeps time like a quartz watch with a battery and quartz crystal, but includes a mechanical chrono... 

Thanks (nt)

 By: Jaw : March 5th, 2005-09:21

Well done MJLC! But where is the purist Chronograph?

 By: Ian Y. Thow : March 3rd, 2005-06:18
Well done MJLC! Thank you Jaw for this world exclusive preview! You have outdone yourself again! Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph is huge! As big as AP?s ROO T3 Limited Edition worn by the Terminator! Sadly, I don?t have Arnold?s big wrist to w... 

perception of size is subjective

 By: Jaw : March 3rd, 2005-08:20
and compression keys have a very functional purpose and not just a design decision. Jaw

Part 5 - Is the scary sounding 46.3mm TOO big?

 By: Jaw : March 3rd, 2005-09:21
(From left, Magali Metrailler, Joel Cordier, Stephane Belmont with Compressor Chrono, Caroline Dunand with Compressor Chrono, CEO Jerome Lambert with Extreme World Chrono and Isabelle Gervais) Perhaps stunned by the WOW factor of the watch, most of us in ...  

Nice size!! Looks macho on a man's wrist...

 By: alainc : March 3rd, 2005-10:22
Unlike many other 40+ sized watches in the market nowadays, designed with a big watch case just to meet the market demands; the generous dimensions of the Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph is justified by functional and innovative details. Strap... 

Mine is also 16.5cm...just went to measure :-)

 By: Jokoh : March 4th, 2005-12:12
Hi Jaw, Strange...could be photography for the wrist. It looks good with your right hand and not that big but it looks bigger on Wei's left hand...illusion . I notice that he is wearing it lower and you are wearing it higher...could that be it :)hmmmm...a... 

If Magali can wear it ,so can I..ha ha............

 By: Zach T : March 4th, 2005-08:08
certainly nice to see wrist shots that gave a good perspective of the size of the watch. Have to try it on to really see but I'm feeling very weak now.. >>>>>Zach T

Where is the PR indication

 By: Daniel : March 4th, 2005-09:09
The press release says the Extreme has a Power Reserve indication. Is this the red disc above 6, or is the red disc for running seconds? If the latter, where is the PR indication? Daniel

Part 6 - Portable shock test and a brief first look on the real watches

 By: Jaw : March 4th, 2005-09:09
The use of Titanium and Stainless Steel (or Platinum) is functional, when you use 2 metals with different densities and properties, shock can be deflected, and hence reducing the potential shock to the movement. The winding stem has a collar resting again...  

Case thickness...

 By: Jaw : March 9th, 2005-12:12

Part 7 - First look continuation and an animation of the Shock Absorber case!

 By: Jaw : March 5th, 2005-06:06
When the 3 new models, Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph, Master Compressor Chronograph and MecaQuartz Master Compressor Lady, were unveiled in Dubai, most journalists went straight to the Extreme World display case. (The limited edition Master ...  


 By: jlouissaul : March 5th, 2005-07:07
Jaw, Fabulous! When will these new pieces be available and what are the price points?? Again fantastic coverage... Jeff

An astonishing debut

 By: tony p : March 5th, 2005-07:19
I'm 100% impressed and awestruck by these new JLC releases. I was never a big fan of the Compressor range, but these watches have changed all that. To those who complain about the size: get a life. Just because you think 46mm is too big for you, does that... 

"Form follows function" - and a slightly different position ...

 By: Marcus Hanke : March 6th, 2005-06:06
First of all I might point out that the famous dictum of "form follows function" itself has never been used by the Bauhaus movement, but must be credited to the US architect Louis Sullivan in 1896. However, it is clear that the Bauhaus movement, like all ...  

Actually, the chrono is very easy to read...

 By: Jaw : March 6th, 2005-06:06
and thanks for your very carefully worded post and contribution. And although I won't argue with your para "Especially the Extreme chronograph makes it difficult to read the elapsed time at a single glance, since it is very likely that one will not find t... 

Let me offer a suggestion ...

 By: Marcus Hanke : March 6th, 2005-07:07

I thoroughly agree Marcus >>

 By: Velociphile - No longer in the building : March 6th, 2005-09:09

Outstanding stuff Jaw......such a .......>>>>

 By: Peg : March 6th, 2005-06:06
intriguing essay....i must say that although i am not a JLC fan but this is interesting stuff... Keep it coming... Cheers Pegan

I say !

 By: Praveen : March 22nd, 2005-03:03
Hi Jaw That is a rather reasonable price for these watches ! Any idea of the USA retail price indications ? Thanks in advance praveen

Due to popular demand, here are the tentative prices for the 2 compressors.

 By: Jaw : March 6th, 2005-08:20
This is in response to many email enquiries, technicaly, I think the watch should be assessed without price discussion but here they are: compressor chrono stainless steel : Euro 6,500 world extreme stainless steel/titanium: Euro 9,850 world extreme Plati... 

Well slap me silly...JLC has done it again...

 By: Jokoh : March 7th, 2005-12:12
Hi Jaw, I think with that kind of pricing, most other brands are gonna have weak knees Maybe thats what JLC intended to do in the 1st place. I have been actually following their prices closely and comparing with others. MJLC is definitely telling the rest...