Jaeger-LeCoultre

There are watches that have been a lasting dream. I've long been a Jaeger-LeCoultre admirer before being in charge of this forum. There are Jaeger-LeCoultre watches that I now have the pleasure to keep for the future generation. Actually many of those I acquired after leaving the place for your benefit, passing it to my friend Nicolas.

One of the Jaeger-LeCoultre that appealed me for the longer time (even if that's not the one that appealed me most, another chapter that I will share in the future) is the well known "tear drop" lugs triple calendar of the 40s. This handsome case design was in fact perpetuated till very recently by its Vacheron Constantin cousin through a little range of minute repeaters. As I couldn't get (definitely) my hands on one of those I've been on the contrary very lucky to finally acquire a stainless steel triple date by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

This awesome triple date of more than 60 years of age has joined my modern Reverso GT Date in the JLC box (now counting 10 pieces, 7 man wristwatches, one more for my wife and two pocket watches). The watch was fully restored to its original glory by the internal Jaeger-LeCoultre "spa". The service is costly but definitely worthwhile as I now feel fully entitled to wear a "like" new watch.

Wearing a "like new" watch is not really like wearing a vintage watch. I feel it more like travelling in the past, living historical moments with full performance. I have to admit that I've more dreamt of driving an old early 50s Bentley Continental R or sixties Aston Martin DB4 or 5, ideally perfectly restored by one of those English specialists that bring these old beauties to modern state for not even double the price of their modern counterparts.

The truth is that whatever the appeal of their modern counterpart is, it is of little effect compared to the old charm of the grand mother. I write these words without any disdain or lack of respect for the work of the modern Jaeger-LeCoultre of course. I just share my own little experience and confess my faintness for the respectable old ladies who everyday prove their everlasting beauty.

The voluptuous forms of the "tear drop" style are certainly the main appeal of this watch. The wording has been too often exaggeratedly used for different lug styles, but if I'm right this style is the real "tear drop" style and the most original. As these watches are not really rare I can only encourage you to have a closer and direct look at them.

One of the most striking modern Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, the Master Moon (or the simpler Master Date), is a clear descendant of the "tear drop" models of the 40s. It does not share the case design alas, but the complication and the elegance of the overall design are enough to perpetuate the line in a respectable way. As much as I understand as it is possible to appreciate the Master Calendar, it is in my opinion a very different watch as it has for me a thickness that is positioned on another field. A very nice watch, but not in the same league as far as I can judge. As it seems that the most recent Master watches are heading back towards thinner designs, I hope to see a new triple date someday.

The combination of pink gold indexes and hands on a silver dial in a steel case was re-introduced in 2010 with a limited edition of the new Master Chronograph. The general reception of this version can let us hope of more such watches in the future. I'm not too keen on modern "vintage" watches, but there are vintage aspects that can still be modern and elegant. In fact we don't have to re-invent the wheel each year.

In fact the original era of the "tear drop" watches remind me of the first modern cars post war and of the "razor edge" style. A Bentley mkVI or Type R, or a Rolls-Royce Silver Dawn come to mind, or even the many coach built cars of that time. The trend will last with the Silver Cloud and even as far as the Phantom VI or Daimler DS420 in the very early 90s. The technical constraints that have ended these designs have no reason to apply to watches.

Is there anything in this design that would not fit with a modern use?

Aren't we able today to appreciate such fine and thin watches?

It's time to bring back my modern Reverso Date as an example of a successful modern use of such elegance.

In fact I hope to see some stuff in that line for the 80 years celebration of the birth of the Reverso. The first Reverso presented seems accordingly elegant. It is certainly enough to hope more. There are not even three weeks to wait before the opening of the SIHH. Let's hope!

For long the magical trick of horology was to case large calibres in small watches. In recent time it seems to have been the contrary.  Both watches presented in this thread have calibres perfectly sized for the case. I also hope to see new watches sharing this aspect. This policy has generally been part of Jaeger-LeCoultre's tradition but this tradition has not been perfectly respected in the recent years. I hope it will be in the future as it is an essential aspect of the design success.

To finish with this subject, let's try to pay respect to these lasting beauties. Let's have a look at a design that will probably represent the extreme elegance for probable future decades (hopefully). Maharaja of Nahba is the nickname of the most ancient car in the Royal Mews. Perfectly balanced designs are forever!

Of course I'd be pleased to see your « tear drop » possessions.

Cheers

Dje