A Jaeger-LeCoultre calendar for life: a 40s triple date or a 90s Reverso!
There are
watches that have been a lasting dream. I've long been a Jaeger-LeCoultre
admirer before being in charge of this forum. There are Jaeger-LeCoultre
watches that I now have the pleasure to keep for the future generation.
Actually many of those I acquired after leaving the place for your benefit,
passing it to my friend Nicolas.
One of the
Jaeger-LeCoultre that appealed me for the longer time (even if that's not
the one that appealed me most, another chapter that I will share in the future)
is the well known "tear drop" lugs triple calendar of the 40s. This
handsome case design was in fact perpetuated till very recently by its Vacheron
Constantin cousin through a little range of minute repeaters. As I couldn't
get (definitely) my hands on one of those I've been on the contrary very
lucky to finally acquire a stainless steel triple date by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
This awesome
triple date of more than 60 years of age has joined my modern Reverso GT Date
in the JLC box (now counting 10 pieces, 7 man wristwatches, one more for my
wife and two pocket watches). The watch was fully restored to its original
glory by the internal Jaeger-LeCoultre "spa". The service is costly
but definitely worthwhile as I now feel fully entitled to wear a
"like" new watch.
Wearing a
"like new" watch is not really like wearing a vintage watch. I feel
it more like travelling in the past, living historical moments with full
performance. I have to admit that I've more dreamt of driving an old
early 50s Bentley Continental R or sixties Aston Martin DB4 or 5, ideally
perfectly restored by one of those English specialists that bring these old beauties
to modern state for not even double the price of their modern counterparts.
The truth is
that whatever the appeal of their modern counterpart is, it is of little effect
compared to the old charm of the grand mother. I write these words without any
disdain or lack of respect for the work of the modern Jaeger-LeCoultre of
course. I just share my own little experience and confess my faintness for the
respectable old ladies who everyday prove their everlasting beauty.
The voluptuous
forms of the "tear drop" style are certainly the main appeal of
this watch. The wording has been too often exaggeratedly used for different lug
styles, but if I'm right this style is the real "tear drop"
style and the most original. As these watches are not really rare I can only
encourage you to have a closer and direct look at them.
One of the most
striking modern Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, the Master Moon (or the simpler
Master Date), is a clear descendant of the "tear drop" models of
the 40s. It does not share the case design alas, but the complication and the
elegance of the overall design are enough to perpetuate the line in a
respectable way. As much as I understand as it is possible to appreciate the
Master Calendar, it is in my opinion a very different watch as it has for me a
thickness that is positioned on another field. A very nice watch, but not in the
same league as far as I can judge. As it seems that the most recent Master
watches are heading back towards thinner designs, I hope to see a new triple
date someday.
The combination
of pink gold indexes and hands on a silver dial in a steel case was
re-introduced in 2010 with a limited edition of the new Master Chronograph. The
general reception of this version can let us hope of more such watches in the
future. I'm not too keen on modern "vintage" watches, but
there are vintage aspects that can still be modern and elegant. In fact we
don't have to re-invent the wheel each year.
In fact the
original era of the "tear drop" watches remind me of the first
modern cars post war and of the "razor edge" style. A Bentley mkVI
or Type R, or a Rolls-Royce Silver Dawn come to mind, or even the many coach
built cars of that time. The trend will last with the Silver Cloud and even as
far as the Phantom VI or Daimler DS420 in the very early 90s. The technical
constraints that have ended these designs have no reason to apply to watches.
Is there
anything in this design that would not fit with a modern use?
Aren't we
able today to appreciate such fine and thin watches?
It's time
to bring back my modern Reverso Date as an example of a successful modern use
of such elegance.
In fact I hope
to see some stuff in that line for the 80 years celebration of the birth of the
Reverso. The first Reverso presented seems accordingly elegant. It is certainly
enough to hope more. There are not even three weeks to wait before the opening
of the SIHH. Let's hope!
For long the
magical trick of horology was to case large calibres in small watches. In
recent time it seems to have been the contrary. Both watches presented in
this thread have calibres perfectly sized for the case. I also hope to see new
watches sharing this aspect. This policy has generally been part of
Jaeger-LeCoultre's tradition but this tradition has not been perfectly
respected in the recent years. I hope it will be in the future as it is an
essential aspect of the design success.
To finish with
this subject, let's try to pay respect to these lasting beauties. Let's
have a look at a design that will probably represent the extreme elegance for
probable future decades (hopefully). Maharaja of Nahba is the nickname of the
most ancient car in the Royal Mews. Perfectly balanced designs are forever!
Of course I'd
be pleased to see your « tear drop » possessions.
Cheers
Dje
What a gorgeous vintage piece, Dje!
Great pictures, my friend! Thanks for sharing them with us.
Cheers,
Daos
Thank you Daos!
Thank you for your nice comments.
I must confess that it is indeed one of the watches that I've looked at for a very long time.
It is obvious watch.
Cheers
Dje
I was thinking a lot about your Duo of " JLC Date ", Jerome.
And to tell you all, one is very high in my wish list, the round triple calendar, and the other one, your Reverso, was a very pleasant and unexpected surprise ( sorry for the redundance ) when I saw it in the flesh some 2 years ago.
The round Triple Date, first:
The case is indeed the most sublime ever made by JLC... Tear Drops, superb proportions, very elegant dial, all is here!
I recently saw the rare black dial, as you can admire it below:
But your silver alternative is superb, too.
To share (another) secret with you, it is already planned for 2011... But sshhhht, not a word, eeh?
As for your Reverso Date, it is not a very often seen model, it reminds me a rectangular watch ade in 1949 in Homage to Jacques David LeCoultre, with a moonphase, though.
If I remember well, they made the relation between your Reverso and this J.D LeCoultre Homage, in the catalogs.
Super elegant!
Thaks for this marvellous post, Jerome.
You surprised me, as I was waiting for another post, but it may be your next one?
All the best, my friend.
Nicolas
Someday Nicolas!
Someday you'll see a post you're waiting for....... not yet!
I hope you'll put your hands soon on a special triple date piece. You've been hoping for one for a while now.
For the Reverso I see another inspiration, a "special" perpetual calendar Reverso.....
But who knows?
Cheers
Dje
You know, Jerome, there is always a time for a watch.
I have been waiting for MY triple date for a while, now...
It seems that 2011 will be MY year, for me to lock this target.
Fingers crossed!
Best, my friend.
Nicolas.
Jerome, you know how much I love the TD/TD!
TD/TD – Triple Date with Tear Drop lugs.
Yours look fantastic!
The Reverso also looks great.
Here is my pair YG/RG.
Thank you for sharing this beauty!
Best
Blomman
Dje, enjoy reading this post...
... although i do not have either triple or double calendar JLC, i am sure these kinds of watch come by, i will for sure get one such classic vintage.
thanks for sharing.
stefan
I, too, have high expectations...
for the 80eme! The Reverso Date is one of my favorites, but I'm hoping that the SIHH will reveal a triple-date Reverso, or - better yet - an annual calendar!
Your comment below "An Everyday Reverso" is true - as we've seen in the 38mm MUT, but, it doesn't look TOO out of proportion, as I've seen on some Zenith Elites in 44/45mm cases with small portholes.
Please Santa (Jerome Lambert), may I have a clean guilloche dial on the front (perhaps like the Art Deco) and an Annual Calendar on the back of a Reverso Grande? I'll be good - I promise!
-Dean
We'll see soon! Hopefully you'll be answered! nt
fab tripple date
Have to say love Jaeger's calender watches, both your triple date and the Reverso. I still need to be convinced by the current master date - seems to have lost a certain elegance that yours has in spades. Enjoy them both Regards JML
The Master Moon is a very beautiful and understated watch!
I love your watch too (but we can't get them all).
Cheers
Dje
What beautifull review Jerome!
Thank's for sharing!
Best!
Great calendar pieces
I used to own the reverso, its much underarted watch. i do miss it, your pictures do it full justice.. if you only ever own one reverso. I would heartily reccomend it.
Best
Imran
Reverso Day-Date
Thanks for the great review. It certainly sparked interest in the JLC triple-calendar in me!
I am the fortunate owner of the JLC Reverso Day-Date. I discovered the existence of the watch after it was discontinued, but I was lucky to stumble upon another fine specimen for sale after I missed out on the first one. Needless to say, I snapped up the offer and swapped the cool bracelet for a vintage look Ostrich strap. I know it was based on a classic art deco model launched way back, and it is one watch which I never get tired of looking at. I've small wrist, and the Reverso fits me very well. The silver dial and blued hands play off each other very well, and the unique art deco design and typeface really sets the watch apart from others. And being JLC, the movement is absolutely great, and it's a joy to wind the watch every other day (even setting the day-date is a breeze).
The JLC Reverso Day-Date don't come by often, so if you love it be sure to snap up the next specimen you see on sale! I can't remember the number of compliments I get on this watch. Love it or hate it - you just can't ignore it!
Welcome here, neoxenon!
Thanks a lot for your input on this Reverso.
Well written, and a pleasure to read you.
Aah, one thing, this is Jerome's Reverso you see in his post.
Looking forward to reading you more often here and there,
Best,
Nicolas.
How not to love them
Hi Jérôme,
Well, it's a fact that I am quite fond of the memovox, the reason being that it is a fairly uncommon 'small' complication to be found in the vintage (and even current) watches world, and that there has been a great diversity of models throughout the years.
However, when it comes to the Triple dates (and the moon variants), I see them as the pinnacle of the classic era of Jaeger LeCoultre, the most refined watches from the vintage years.
In the last months of 2010, I received these 3 also back from the spa (not the same as yours), and I am wearing them in rotation almost daily (which saves me from having to set the triple date ! )
About the V&C triple dates teardrop lugs, they were very, very close to their JLC cousins (actually, almost same case, movement by JLC and same source for the dial, so not surprisingly a very similar outcome).
While you can usually find a sometimes significant difference between the V&C models and their JLC cousins (mostly on the movement side) on other models, in the case of the triple dates, they are extremely close, so there is no regret to have not to have found your V&C one.
The level of finish in the JLC-signed movements is actually very high.
(pictures from my watchmaker, taken during the 'spa')
The dials / hands of the V&C Triple date / teardrop lugs were usually differentfrom the JLC ones, V&C using applied numbers / bâtons hands instead of index + dauphine (or the rare radium dial and hands variant found only on the JLCs).
Also, while JLCs had the first day of the month at 12', V&C had the date of the 31 at 12' instead.
However, you might note that in the 3 JLC ones above, I have a somehow unusual 'V&C-styled JLC', which is very unusual as it is 100% JLC, but has the dial characteristics of a V&C ! (applied numbers, baton hands and 31 at 12')
So, even with the triple dates there are som odd variants that can meke the joy of collectors.
Your triple date looks brand new, and must be a joy to wear.
I have to say that I was a little disapointed by the dial-repriniting job done on yours during its Sentier spa treatment.
While the printings are perfect (size / colour / fonts / layout etc), the base of the dial (the coating layer) is a bit rough looking, and, being apparently a coating of silver painting instead of a galvanic / electrolytic treatment, it doesn't have the characteristic 'brushed' texture, and the paint has completely filled the fine sort-of-guillochage that was present in the second subdial.
I know that this is a tricky thing to achieve (having been in talks last week with a redialler who explained me how this was done originally, and how he could not do it himself because he didn't have the electrolytic treatment capability), but I would have expected a better / more original result for what appears to have been a fairly expensive spa treatment.
That being said, it is just a reflection from a collectors point of view, as I personnally prefer my dials with some small flaws but fully originals, but I can perfectly understand that others like to have a watch as fresh and with an 'as new' feeling as possible, even with a verly 'respectable 60 years old lady' like your triple date.
It makes a perfect pair with your Reverso date (which, despite being not so old, becomes a collectible itself it seems)
Superb watches Clavi
Thank you for sharing your pics.
You own three gorgeous examples indeed.
I understand your point about the original state, but in fact the watch dial and hands were in really bad state when I got them.
I just checked the pics I've kept and there was no guillochage in the seconds circle when I got them.
The "grain" of the dial is that of a paint in fact. It's more grained than my pics let see.
The watch is definitely more beautiful today and I have no regret, definitely;
The only strange aspect is about the colour of the dates. They were light blue originally. It annoyed me to see them red when I got the watch back, but it was so beautiful I easily forget the blue. Still this point make me wonder if the dial was really repainted or if they put a NOS dial.
Who knows?
Cheers
Dje
Your dial
Your dial is definitively repainted, not a NOS one. NOS should have the textured 'guilloched' sub-second dial (as can be seen on this moon phase, but this would be similar for the regular version)
However, if your dial did not have this guillochage initially, and had the date in blue, there are chances that it was already repainted / not original, so all in all your watch is obviously in a much better state now (and I believe the red date is indeed correct for your dial version)