Rosneathian
1471
Please update us on progress.
My own selections are based on a combination of availability and personal taste. They may or may not overlap with references currently available at auction or on sales platforms...
No matter. I've been able to reconstruct much of the catalogue in chronological order from 1989 to 2011 (neither THG nor Bvlgari could provide these when I spoke with them). This ordering is far from complete but it's allowed me to appreciate elements of each phase on its own terms.
The general consensus appears to be that those first few years - 1989-1994 - set a magically high water mark. Indeed they do. Daniel Roth (the man) only designed and made about ten watches types, and most of these were in those first few years. At the same time there were some fine moments from the periods 1995-2000, when he was less involved, and 2001-2011, when of course he wasn't involved at all.
Interviews in Europa Star with THG's Tay family during the mid-1990s show how high their appreciation and ambition were. Circumstances, as we know, got in the way and this showed in the watches that emerged during this period. Many lacked the balance, symmetry and use of precious metals that were Daniel Roth's leitmotifs.
Bvlgari was less than charitable about some of the output that preceded its ownership. They had a point even if they were being less than graceful to say so in print. With the benefit of hindsight we can also see the aesthetic drift creep into Bvlgari's own releases.
The bottom line is that it was the prerogative of both sets of owners to take their company in directions they saw fit. Sometimes it worked. At others, less so.
What's clear is that Daniel Roth (the man) couldn't wait to escape from all of this. FIHH Journal interviewed him in 2019, and the following remarks were attributed to him:
“I heard it all at Bulgari. The production manager was clearly set on getting rid of me, and I obviously had no intention of carrying on working in those conditions. I had a one-year fixed term contract and as soon as the twelve months were up, I left.”
“I heard it all at Bulgari. The production manager was clearly set on getting rid of me, and I obviously had no intention of carrying on working in those conditions. I had a one-year fixed term contract and as soon as the twelve months were up, I left.”
This is what I admire the most: an artist steeped in tradition, a master of his craft, a designer and an artisan, a purist who can be whimsical at the same time, and all the while fiercely independent.
More posts:
Daniel Roth Classic Small Seconds ref. 207/L.30.011.CN.BA
18K rose gold Calibre: JLC 891 36 jewels, 28,800 A/h Certified chronometer 1999 This is the third of my mini collection of Daniel Roths. I'm working my way backwards for the most part, based on availability and personal tastes. First was the Bvlgari perio...
Bulgari still service Daniel Roth watches, even after they dropped the name during the LVMH buy-out in 2011.
Personally, however, I use an independent watch repair outfit. I live in a large city where they've operated for more than 50 years with certified watch repairers for most major brands. They count Christies among their clients, who use them to service and...
Thanks. I can see why you say that.
Much has been said of the 'phases' of M. Roth's work. There is his peerless early output, but I also find that some of the references produced under the ownership of The Hour Glass and Bvlgari did a decent job of adhering to his codes: balance, proportion...
Beautiful collection of DRs .
Like you i am also on the hunt to try to add a early masterpiece from the master watchmaker himself. Till then i am happy to have these 3 great watches ...
Hello again. I'll race you!
Joking of course. One of the pleasures of life right now is to delve deep into Daniel Roth, to meet and converse with experienced collectors and writers, to research the lineage, to compile records of references, and to quietly follow social media posts f...
I would love to add a Papillon or early Tourbillon at some point.
But a beautiful chrono will do also 😉. Lets see what will cross my path in the future 🤷🏻♂️
They are all so wonderful!
I have thought of getting one for years. Can these still be serviced by Bvlgari?
Hello. Yes, the word I have is that Bvlgari still services DR watches.
I should call Bvlgari to confirm this but that’s my understanding. I have my own authorized independent watch repair to go to, so will be taking these three in later this year.
All three of those pop up from time to time.
A 1999 yellow gold papillon featured on Chrono24 for about three days two weeks ago and was gone. I guess you saw my WTB. The price I cited was notional. One was sold for $8,000 less than two years ago, but I’m aware that they are fetching somewhat more t...
I know some pop up from time to time.
Prices are going up. Just need to find the right one at the right time 🤗. Wish you a happy hunt and hope you will find one soon 🙏🏻
Thank you. The first adheres most closely to 'the DR code,' so to speak. The second and third are tangential, but nice compositions in their own ways.
It's whetted my appetite for one or more of his foundational references. For me, that would mean a BB2147 or a C127 a begin with.
Lovely collection.
Hope to add a DR to my collection at some point. May I ask, what is the text that forms part of the zero on the date wheel (second pic/ oversize date)?
Hello. The text reads 'Roth.' This detail appears on the date indicator of Bvlgari-period DR watches...
... and is an example of the 'too much design' trend that crept into watches of the early-mid 2000s. They just about got away with it in this instance, but less really would have been more I feel. That said, it's a lovely little watch and I like how it tu...
Thanks for the clarification.
I agree, it probably is a tad too much, but at least its subtle enough.
Please update us on progress.
My own selections are based on a combination of availability and personal taste. They may or may not overlap with references currently available at auction or on sales platforms... No matter. I've been able to reconstruct much of the catalogue in chronolo...
