Independents

only have the Dornblüth

 

I can only speak about Dornblüth from the perspective of the one I have, the 04.0:

I think the first thing to consider is whether the aesthetic grabs you.  The marine chronometer look isn't for everyone, but if it sings to you, then I think you'll be hard pressed to find a more honest example.  The second thing to consider is the size.  The models available are either 42mm or 34mm.

Dirk is a great person as well as a fine watchmaker, so I'm confident your experience will be good if you work with him.  Someone mentioned above that his movement finishing is crude; I might not use that word, but I understand the point: finishing certainly is not as fine as the major houses or best independents.  Dirk begins with an ebauche, to be sure, but the rest is handmade: no CNC machines, just lots and lots of lathes and hand tools.  Examples: The swan neck you see above is simple, but was cut individually from a steel plate, hand polished and tempered.  The regulating screw is made in one piece from steel rod stock.  The balance cock is engraved by hand.

Dials are very good, and options are getting better.  The Regulator model offers an engraved, silver-finished dial made according to the methods of traditional ship's chronometers.  Several models now have fired enamel dials as well.

Weaknesses?  The cases are solid and well-finished with brushed and polished areas, but are a bit generic.  Hands are well-executed but lack, in my opinion, a bit of the elegance of the dial.  Movement finishing, particularly the plate edges, the striping, and the rose-gold plating, show imperfections under the loupe that would not be there in certain more expensive watches.

I could go on and on about how much I like Dornblüth's watches, but in the end, I think you can see what you get: a simple, robust watch largely handmade by master watchmaker and a true can-do person.  If the traditional German look and execution lights a fire for you, then your choice is easy....

regards, Tom