I propose that to settle the controversy about Laurent Ferrier's characterization of movements as being in-house, we go straight to the source

Apr 03, 2018,00:16 AM
 

I'm sure LF knows that the WIS audience for haute horlogerie timepieces is a very demanding, high-maintenance, ruthlessly perfectionist crowd. The targeted buyers of their products are not superficial collectors who are looking for various dial and bezel combinations or Rolex Submariners. There is no point in creating what is arguably one of the finest automatic movements in the world unless you are going after buyers who purchase an LF watch specifically for that reason.


And so now there is a movement in the new minute repeater which appears to be the work of Barsini and Navas. Given the history of collaboration between LF and Barsini and Navas, I dont see that as an in validation of their in-house claim, if Barsini and Navas are executing a design on behalf of LF.

It appears, however, that a very similar movement has appeared in a Girard-Perregaux 1966 repeater. Given the audience that LF caters to, I can't imagine that this is something nefarious that they hoped would escape notice. My guess is that there is an explanation or rationale, but no platform for articulating that explanation. After all, when introducing the Minute Repeater, it's not as if they could have included a paragraph in the press release that said "now some of you might notice that this movement is similar to the one recently used by GP. Here is an explanation for that..."

I suspect if asked about this specifically, we will get the response that they have prepared for this. If they don't bother to explain and just hope nobody will notice or care, that would be a big mistake. But I think there is an explanation. 

Would anyone who has previous corresponded with LF volunteer to solicit LF's thoughts on this matter on behalf of the WIS community?


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Enrico Barbasini 😉

 
 By: piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1) : April 3rd, 2018-00:54
To what extent do we, watch enthusiasts, collectors, etc, accept outsourcing of design,parts, if not of the whole movement? There is nothing wrong when it is clearly reported in capital letters, but what does in-house stand for? I recently discovered that... 

"until I discovered the truth"

 
 By: Velociphile - No longer in the building : April 3rd, 2018-09:27
I don't think LF actually ever hid the facts. LF is a lot more than an assembler. Of course one can choose one's own definition of in-house and where to play on the spectrum of value. In the end, it's your money and choice to consider the intrinsic value ... 

I like LF watches

 
 By: piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1) : April 3rd, 2018-13:02
But if i had the money, i would never buy any of them. For me, being independent is much more. Unfortunately, he's not the only one, there's also another famous watchmaker who's turbo cage comes from ...outside. Journe embodies the achetype of independent... 

you seem very sure about FPJ [nt]

 
 By: Velociphile - No longer in the building : April 3rd, 2018-13:48

AFAIK, he deserves his reputation [nt]

 
 By: piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1) : April 3rd, 2018-14:42

+1

 
 By: Euroasianstar : April 3rd, 2018-23:01
We have indeed seen true horological innovation from FPJ and I’ve heard other AHCI members grudgingly acknowledge that. As much as LFs watches are nicely finished and well designed, I personally would not see them as adding much in terms of horological in... 

To be fair, Velociphile

 
 By: Spangles - Dr. Tabby : April 3rd, 2018-19:12
It was a few months back that you were ready to believe FPJ used ETA movements (or had movements based on ETA), when even a cursory glance at FPJ's movements would completely disprove that. It seemed a little weird that you even were willing to entertain ... 

Perhaps I didn’t make myself clear

 
 By: Velociphile - No longer in the building : April 3rd, 2018-23:50
I never said Journe used ETA movements. That would be idiotic to suggest. Not quite sure of your reason for that obfuscation. But Re FPJ - The question unanswered remains. Did Journe especially in their early days, use some base components from out of hou... 

Thanks for clarifying

 
 By: Spangles - Dr. Tabby : April 4th, 2018-20:03
It did seem odd! Truly! Please let us know if you discover something about early FPJ (or are you talking about Mr. Journe's work prior to "FPJ" the company existing?). I doubt finding the use of a standardized size gear or whatever will be a smoking gun, ... 

The early Resonance models used Peseaux 7001 gear trains but

 
 By: alex : April 4th, 2018-22:27
Is this really important considering the singularity of this piece?

Not necessarily, but the question would be what was said of it at the time......

 
 By: Velociphile - No longer in the building : April 5th, 2018-01:23
I can't remember back that far, probably "in house"

The same movement has been used in at least four other watches

 
 By: Incandenza : April 3rd, 2018-01:52
Girard Perreguax, Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren and Speake-Marin. Personally, I would be upset if I spent US$345k on a watch with the same movement as two fashion brands. Nevermind whether the movement is “in house” - that just doesn’t seem right to me. At ...  

Thanks for all the details provided !

 
 By: montres1 : April 4th, 2018-05:27
Interesting to see how the same basis "ebauche" is treated and worked differently depending on the brands. Very personally I like the GP well, using the "Pont d'Or" to sustain the balance wheel. I agree anyway that now with large groups (e.g. LVMH) holdin... 

Did you spend 345k on the LF minute repeater??

 
 By: andrewluff : April 4th, 2018-12:57
If so, then complain to LF and please report back to us on how you get on. If not, then leave it to those people to complain if they wish. I agree the statements are a little misleading, but I have seen these images several times now and am starting to fe... 

Hmmm ...

 
 By: Incandenza : April 4th, 2018-13:40
Do you think that a collector only has a “right” to post a critique of a watch if he has already purchased the watch? That doesn’t sound like a sensible view to me. (FYI, I own a number of high-value independent watches, and would actually consider buying... 

Congratulations to you on your collection!

 
 By: andrewluff : April 5th, 2018-01:18
But we try to keep the tone of forum as we would as gentleman and friends sitting around a table. To mention repeatedly seems to be nothing more than grinding your axe against LF... we all already heard you and saw your pictures! If LF as a brand does not... 

That’s because you did defame me

 
 By: gerald.d : April 6th, 2018-11:20
You accused me of having knowledge that I don’t have. When I said I didn’t have that knowledge, you flat out accused me of lying. Me - “3. Can't comment, don't know the business model.” You - “Second, I think you probably can comment on my third point abo... 

Truth is a defence to defamation

 
 By: Incandenza : April 6th, 2018-13:28
Your full name is stated in bold font at the top of your public Instagram page. I would never reveal the name of someone who wanted to keep their name private. On your IG page, you have expressly stated that you handled brand new LF watches from a well-kn... 

And there you go again

 
 By: gerald.d : April 6th, 2018-19:52
I’ve handled, and photographed, watches from many sources. Quite why you think this would mean I have deep knowlege of brands’ business models is beyond me. I have already stated it is of no interest to me. And yet AGAIN you accuse me of lying. And my Ins... 

I believe credibility and reputation are key success factors for luxury brands that aim at a conoisseurs' clientele.

 
 By: maxmanzo : April 3rd, 2018-06:15
LF website clearly reports Mr. LF himself words: "Each of our developments, from conception through assembly, is made in our geneva workshops." Even though the notion of "in-house" is not well defined and I guess there is space to play, carefulness must b... 

i think "in house" means

 
 By: TylerDurden : April 3rd, 2018-06:32
developed in house then all the components are sent to fabrication to respective subcontractors, which is fair cause you don't need to buy all the cnc machines etc to produce 500 watches a year, and finally if you control all the process i don't see any p... 

+1 [nt]

 
 By: Velociphile - No longer in the building : April 3rd, 2018-09:28

Thanks Tyler for defining more clearly the meaning of in-house and I completely agree on all your subsequent points.

 
 By: maxmanzo : April 4th, 2018-06:24
I am a fan of LF and expecially of the micro rotor movement and its finish is one of the best I've seen in reality. I actually hope to own one in the future. I'm just wondering, since I'm not an expert, for the sake of knowledge, if your definition of "in... 

first things first

 
 By: TylerDurden : April 4th, 2018-12:20
in a watch there are 2 different things, one is the movement and the other one is the "habillage"(case, dials, straps, buckles etc) for the movement serious swiss watchmakers are doing their components themselves or outsourced but in switzerland, to me, i... 

How do I delete this thread?

 
 By: Saturninus : April 6th, 2018-15:47
I regret starting it :/

I agree

 
 By: Incandenza : April 7th, 2018-06:05
It would be best to delete this thread. Apologies that it has become so ugly. I guess watches inspire strong emotions.