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Hublot Fusion, Passion, and Philosophy in Paris - as delivered by Jean-Claude Biver

The next stop was Paris. As part of the pre-Basel build up Jean-Claude Biver has been on the road to introduce the new collection this year, to talk to journalists who might not make it to Basel or be unable to meet, and talk about what the watches mean to him. There is an energy to Paris in the spring, and while M Biver needs little help in that regard, it was a pleasure to be in there on a balmy early spring day in the city of light, living up to its name, at the newly revamped Hotel Meurice on the rue du Rivoli. The Hotel Meurice has become the very fusion of former grandeur, with modern twists courtesy of Phillipe Stark. Bathed in sunlight, opposite the Jardin de Tuilleries, the hotel was at once modern and yesteryear at the same time.



Two pre-collection topics were up for discussion. First was the fact that M. Biver had just left Japan (http://hublot.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-871/pi-4466778/ti-693533/s-0/). The shock and dismay was obvious, but Jean Claude pointed out the resilience and the persistence of the Japanese. His admiration for the Japanese people was apparent; their ability to continue with life in the face of near overwhelming circumstances made them special.



The talk and conversation started with Hublot’s watch guarantee system and the cards activated at the authorized dealers. I have to say that I admire the information technology systems that Hublot have in place, and I do wonder why other watch firms have not implemented the same system. It provides security and peace of mind all in the same instance. When you buy a Hublot, the dealer activates the card. This immediately starts the guarantee period and also provides an authentication that the Hublot watch you are buying is genuine. Throughout the life of the watch (however many years that might be), the guarantee card should accompany the watch. When it was bought, the first service, all services after that, are all recorded under the same registration number. Jean-Claude Biver is always concerned with the consumer and how Hublot interacts with the watch enthusiast. Hence, the setting up of Hublot TV and the Hublot website.

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Second was the takeover of Bulgari by LVMH. Back in April 2008 LVMH had acquired Hublot and kept Jean Claude Biver at the helm. I asked about the acquisition of Bulgari and whether it would impact Hublot in anyway. Later, as I will come onto to describe, M. Biver described how the acquisition of BNB Concept had increased production capacity at Hublot, and how this had astounded Hublot’s owners on what was to become of the spare capacity. However, whatever the intended designation of the spare capacity, it will not be for Bulgari. The two brands will be kept as completely separate entities; Bulgari will continue to operate as it did; likewise Hublot.

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In a suite room at the front of the Hotel, myself and a select few from the French media gathered around to hear what Mr Biver had to say about Hublot and this years collection. Mr Biver started off talking generally about the watch business. He emphasized that tradition was first in life. Without tradition in the Swiss watchmaking industry, there would be no future. Once there is tradition in what you do, there will be a future. Hublot has tradition from the past and looks to the future; Hublot started off as avant-garde, as a fusion brand, but with traditional Swiss watchmaking. The future is both to account for the past and innovate to push forward.



The other noted acquisition in recent years was BNB Concept. This has allowed the acquisition of people and machines that can drive Hublot in new directions. Hublot have been working with various specializations in metallurgy and carbon fibre to produce a new movement and new directions for movement design. Hublot have also engaged an academic specialist on carbon from Lausanne Polytechnic. BNB and the research and development and production capabilities gave Hublot the chance to vertically integrate all elements. What started as an unfortunate situation turned into a very fortunate situation for Hublot. Hublot can now make in-house just about everything they need. Hublot make in-house, not only movement but screws, axis, wheels, alloy, they refine their own gold, produce their own ceramic, and their own carbon. This capacity to innovate has allowed Hublot to undertake the research necessary to create a minute repeater made with carbon in a carbon case. This is something new and is part of Hublot’s philosophy to fuse the new material with the traditional techniques of watchmaking. A carbon minute repeater has never existed – light and yet clearly audible. Jean Claude referred to it as a philosophical watch: the fusion of new techniques, materials, with the traditions of Swiss watchmaking. It will be revolutionary!



As well as the discussion on the revolutionary and the philosophical, Jean Claude Biver introduced a number of other watches for Basel. In a sense there is a return to the very elements that are Hublot. A number of the watches are called ‘Classic Fusion’ and it is almost a return to the beginnings of Hublot with the case made of a metal and the galvanized rubber strap with matching clasp. The time-only/date watches in both titanium and rose gold were stunning and the titanium watch would make an excellent everyday watch with a twist.



Not shown in Paris on that Monday afternoon was some new pieces for the F1 range. What will catch everyone’s attention is the King Power F1 Ceramic and the King Power Ayrton Senna. Both are carbon variations on the F1 King Power watch produced last year with Ayrton Senna having a carbon patterned case and a split-second chronograph function. The same ‘disc-brake’ bezel on the F1 can be found on the new watches as well. Eye-catching and indicative of the F1 cars own material technology.

Inspired by the black diamond ‘Caviar’ watch, the Black Brick Bang is the ceramic version. Lightweight, very eye-catching, and fortunately, only a fraction of the price of the Black Caviar watch. Not my taste for a watch, but definitely different, and definitely Hublot!



The other watch to look out for at Basel will be the release of a Hublot dive watch. A rather formidable watch that can withstand pressure to 4000 metre, green luminescence, and an intricate case.

Finally, there was a range of watches called ‘Big Bang Tutti Frutti’. Different colours and different shades all along the same theme.



I had a great time chatting with Mr Biver in Paris and Basel promises to be an exciting time for all Hublot collectors and enthusiasts.

Andrew H