patrick_y[PuristSPro Moderator]
28281
Hmm... My thoughts...
Sep 18, 2022,20:55 PM
2022 GPHG Winners
Aguille d'Or: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon or Seiko Kodo Tourbillon.
Ladies': Konstantin Chaykin Harley Quinn - because why not? We all want a "naughty girl" every now and then to win something. This one is the watch you get for your girlfriend.
Ladies' Complication: Andersen Geneve Tempus Terrae - because this is the most elegant and ladylike. This is the watch you get for your wife. Or Mother!
Men's: Akrivia Chonometre Contemporaine II - because Rex's already great watch has just been improved! The Trilobe is a close second for me.
Men's Complication: Not impressed her at all. The Bovet gets my vote. But the Hermes is hard to use. The Parmigiani here is really designed for a very specific use case. The Armin Strom Orbit is very technologically impressive - but it doesn't seem to add any value. The Singer is designed for coffee lovers and really belongs in the Chronograph territory. I don't see any clear winners here. The AP is nice, but just a derivative of something they've done before but adapted to this new case.
Iconic: AP Openworked. Yes. The AP Royal Oak won last year's 2021 Icon award. But this one ought to win this year's! It's a much easier watch to wear than the GP Casquette (which was my runner up). And in all honesty, the skeletonization is truly done quite well! This is the one I'd buy with my money.
Tourbillon: Seiko Kodo. This one was really difficult. Between the Seiko Kodo and the Greubel Forsey, these are both technically great pieces. But the advanced constant force mechanism in the Kodo is quite special.
Calendar & Astronomy: Sarpaneva Nocturne. The Arnold & Son was a close contender but it's so thick. The meteorite dial on the Arnold & Son was a great touch. But there's something about the Sarpaneva Nocturne that's just really pleasing to me.
Mechanical Exception: Chopard LUC Full Strike. The Ferdinand Berthoud was a close second. But having heard that Chopard LUC Full Strike thanks to a member here... What can I say... It's probably the best minute repeater I've heard in a long time. What a watch!
Chronograph: MB&F Evo. This was an amazing assortment of chronographs. Each one was quite exceptional. The Louis Moinet was fantastic and looks great even in the dark and I really like this chronograph. The Gronenfeld was amazing as well and the Czapek had a really impressive movement - I'm not smitten about the case nor bracelet. But the unusual complication of the MB&F Evo is just amazing. It's a different type of chronograph entirely! Great job team at MB&F - it's the most significant chronograph invention in the past 100 years! Here's a review I wrote about it recently:
www.watchprosite.com
/
Diver's: Arty A Diver's watch. This is the only one with a depth gauge!
Jewelery: Bulgari Serpenti. Indiana Jones doesn't like snakes. But he'd really like this one!
Artistic Crafts:Bovet's Madonna and Child. The AP Super Sonnerie is great. But it doesn't come off as a craftspiece despite the special guilloche and the special enamel work. The Voutilainen is probably something truly special, but I haven't seen it in person and I imagine it looks even better in person. Would love to learn more about this piece from Kari.
Petite Aiguille: Trilobe. It's just so elegant and minimalist in a way. It's almost mid-century modern meets 1700s meets Apple Watch minimalist. Something about this watch is deeply appealing. And then look at the movement! The Massena Labs and Louis Erard timepiece comes as a close second. You're probably expecting me to say the Gelfmann since many of you know I'm fond of Nixie Clocks!
Challenge: Mad 1. The Challenge Category is for a "strange" watch or a challenge to conventional watches. And there's only one strange watch that challenges conventional watches here. That's the Mad 1! I do like the vintage look of the Massena.
Mechanical Clock (new category): Hands down the Miki Eleta Passage of Time. What an amazing piece. And what a way to kick off a new category. Miki Eleta submitted a clock in 2021 GPHG under the Mechanical Exceptions Category and it should have won last year! This piece is arguably even more impressive. There's even a small human automaton. And this piece is made without computers! Thus, no CAD modeling. No CNC machining! Just drawn on paper. Then made using saws and drills.
Those are my thoughts! Can't wait to see yours!