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Baselword 2012 - Official PuristSPro Report: Breitling
Dear All;
Breitling was (almost) always a company with a very clear identity: high-performing technical watches with an aviation image (“Instruments for Professionals”). Breitling played that field very well. The watches had a broad clientele, but were not necessarily considered horological highlights.
This changed in 2009!
With the introduction of the Calibre 01, its first in-house manufacture movement (automatic chronograph with 70h of power reserve), the company propelled itself into the highest rank of the watch industry – and all this with brute force!
Not only did the calibre deliver on its timekeeping promises (all of these movements come with a COSC certificate; and we heard that reliability is top-notch), it was also the starting point for a strategy eventually leading to best-possible independence through vertical integration.
In the future, Breitling eventually will also produce its own cases, dials and hands.
Moreover, the manufacture is not content with showcasing the Cal. 01 as demonstration piece for their watchmaking capabilities. Instead, it’s a full production movement with 10.000s already delivered and running and running and running. Breitling is so confident in the reliability of this movement that it offers an exceptional five-year warranty on all models equipped with these calibres.
That’s a bold statement that gains further importance with the fact that Breitlings novelties this year all contain the Cal. 01 as base movement.
Let´s start with the highlight of their novelties.
Transocean Chronograph Unitime
The Transocean Chronograph Unitime is a true novelty with a lot of innovation. It is a multi-timezone watch with an added complication integrated into the Cal. 01 base movement – called Cal. 05.
With 46mm in diameter it is a large watch, but with a reason: the elaborate worldtime mechanism is responsible for the dimensions of the watch (note the different diameter of base-movement and mechanism plate on the top image):
On a close inspection we notice the two disks on the perimeter of the module (one with a list of cities representing different timezones, one with a 24h scale):
Thanks to this double disk system, the Transocean Chronograph Unitime provides at-a-glance reading, anywhere in the world, of the time in all 24 timezones. When the user changes timezone, simply turning the crown forwards or backwards enables instant correction of the hour hand, the city disk and the 24-hour disk – while automatically adjusting the date to local time. The module is ‘fool-proof’; and timezones and time can be set at any time of the day, even across the date line (both back- and forward!).
Our short video demonstrates its abilities:
Back to the watch! We were shown steel version with both a silver (on a gorgeous Milanese bracelet)…
… as well as with a black dial on a robust calf leather strap:
The outer ring carries, as mentioned, the different timezones indicated by representative cities as well as the daylight saving times. Below the second ring indicates home time (local time is shown with the hands).
The richness of detail and the quality of execution is as excellent as can be expected from Breitling. Note how sharp the printing is, how precise indices and hands are cut and hoe detailed the globe in the center is executed (depth, surface patterns, colours):
The case offers known clean and precise lines both on the side…
… and on the back:
The case back itself is (unfortunately) not transparent, but nicely crafted with the ‘Transocean’ logo and exact engravings:
Despite its ‘generous’ size the watch wears relatively well on smaller and larger wrists as demonstrated by the following two images shot from a comparable viewpoint:
Certainly the black dialled version catches more attention than the restrained silver one.
We also think that the silver version exposes the inside position of the chronograph subdials more than its black sibling:
Of course there have been quite a lot more new launches, but we didn´t see them all and will show you only a small selection of what we saw.
The three legends (current versions): Navitimer, Chronomat and Transocean – share the same heart. You already heard about the movement, but maybe you didn´t see the watches. So let´s a have look at two examples.
Navitimer Cosmonaute 1962
The design of the Navitimer´s in general is more than well known in the world of watches. But this one is special and related to a historical event.
Excursion:1962: Scott Carpenter eventually received his own 24-hour Breitling on the 21st May, 1962 just three days before his historic flight.
(May 24 1962 at 0745 hrs EST - Lift-off for Lt Cmdr Carpenter)
He orbited the Earth over three times at a maximum distance from Earth of 164 miles. After a flight lasting just under 5 hours, splash-down was in the Atlantic approximately 1000 miles south-east of Cape Canaveral. Unfortunately during recovery Carpenter's left arm was submerged, damaging his non-waterproof watch which after examination by NASA experts was sent off to the Breitling company. The historic watch was never returned and sadly its present whereabouts are unknown.
Breitling certainly made good use of the publicity:
Fast forward 2012: New versus old:
(New version versus 1962 Cosmonaute Ref. 809 with Venus calibre 178)
The overall quality has improved and there is more attention to details, but the brands logos are more prominent and there is a date on the dial. The latter is practical but a question of taste.
The back shows a well done engraving …
… with information regarding the historical event. Once more no sapphire back, but it fits to the watch.
The number of limited watches is just too easy to guess ;-)
On the wrist, there are no surprises and for quite a lot of people it is a very pleasing watch.
Chronomat 44 GMT
Breitling presents the Chronomat GMT in a new 44 mm diameter, ready to conquer wrists at the four corners of the globe. In addition to its slightly smaller size, this new version stands out for the rotating bezel which displays a third time zone over 24 hours.
The Breitling 04 caliber (based on caliber 01) is inside.
Case – Stainless steel
Dial – different versions (Sierra Silver, Onyx Black, Metallica or Blackeye Blue, Blackeye Grey or Metallica Brown) are available
Bracelet/Strap - Barenia leather, crocodile, Ocean Racer rubber, Diver Pro rubber strap or Pilot steel bracelet
The DNA of Breitling is easy to see and there are no surprises. The haptic of the watch is good and even the details like dial, hands … are well done.
On the wrist we both liked the rubber strap, which is of good quality and fits very well to a sporty watch – even when it is not a diver. Also the buckle is comfortably designed!
It feels like a daily beater, but maybe not for business people with a suit.
Conclusion
What we like about Breitling are mainly two things: 1) a concise and streamlined identity matched by its position in the watch market; 2) the dedication towards product quality exemplified by thorough engineering and (almost) flawless execution accompanied by a COSC certificate and a 5-year warranty.
In fact, we would not be surprised that Breitling would score high in an (imaginary) customer satisfaction rating of the watch industry.
It seems to us that family ownership does have its merits. A long-polished identity and product range is easier to maintain if there is consistency in the ownership situation. Family businesses tend to be less vulnerable to apparently ‘promising’ new trends and certainly are more likely to adopt a long-term view and vision.
Also, since immediate shareholder satisfaction is of lower importance (or can easier be moderated within a family) such businesses can easier invest into long-term values.
Quality is one such value. Here, Breitling pull all strings; cases, dials and hands always have been on a high level. Also, all mechanical watches came with a COSC certificate. Now, Breitling has upped the ante and – with a view to gain independence and thus more control over its production.
The company seems to make wise decisions on how to become a fully integrated manufacture. The Cal. 01 is a (good) point in case: designed to deliver on performance and reliability rather than on aesthetics, it is placed well within the market position of Breitling. It is affordable as well and a very exciting offering in its price range.
That the movement quickly has been adopted as a base for any new complication speaks for a well thought through construction.
The company also has to be applauded for not using the in-house movement to command significantly higher prices.
Altogether, the example of Breitling brilliantly shows how integration benefits for the consumer.
Magnus
My personal highlight is the Navitimer Cosmonaute 1962. I just love the complexity of the dial as well as the design itself. The Navitimer is one of my all-time favourites and true icon. My only regret is that the current model has lost a bit of its soul compared to its predecessors. There was a bit more life in those watches (3D effects, particularly on printed elements like numeral, scales). Or is this just sentimental melancholy (unjustly) favouring the vintage?
Intellectually, I think the Transocean Chronograph Unitime is just brilliant. Very useful, well-executed complication that even satisfies highly in the area of meta-attributes. Just adjust the time-ring with the crown and you really feel that some large wheels interact – consistency inside-out!
Oliver
All three watches which we presented to you are dedicated to travelling (more or less) and I think I am not the only one with a weakness for the GMT complication – even when it is a small one. My biggest surprise was the new Transocean Chronograph Unitime. It shows qualities which (to be honest) I didn´t expect from Breitling, so far. The readability, the practicability, the touch and feel, the dials finish … everything is more than well done. Even when it comes to the price, it is a strong competitor in the market. Breitling offers a lot of watch for the money they ask. Congrats! I guess it will be a big success for them. The only critical point I have, based on my own wrist, is the 46mm diameter. I still can wear it, but not for business travelling and that would be important for me and my lifestyle.
Magnus & Oliver
Baselword 2012 - Official PuristSPro Report: Breitling
Dear All; Breitling was (almost) always a company with a very clear identity: high-performing technical watches with an aviation image (“Instruments for Professionals”). Breitling played that field very well. The watches had a broad clientele, but were no...
Thank you both for the great report as usual...
But I still have the same problem with Breitling: why these huge diameters? For example, the Transocean 3 hands watch is very well made and I deeply regret its size. I think the same with this 2012 collection. Fx
I like the Cosmonaute
I do agree the dial is too busy though. Thanks for the report. This makes me want to dig out my 60s Navitimer to wear! - SJX
Thank you for a terrific report
Although I have never been a breitling guy, the Transocean collection strikes a chord with me. I love the reliability and toughness of Rolex so why not a Breitling calibre 01? Generally, I've found their dials overloaded and not my cup of tea, but the Tra...
Even though...
...I don't generally care for world timers, I do think the white dial Unitime chrono is quite attractive. The mesh bracelet is the way to go with that one -- I've liked that bracelet since seeing it on the Superocean Heritage. Pretty sweet! Well, good for...
Thanks for the very interesting reading, Oliver and Magnus.
This is a brilliant team work, my friends. Aaah the Unitime. A magic name for a magic watch from the past. I regret its size and its date, but I applaud Breitling to have made it! Best, Nicolas
i've always liked Breitling so great report guys
the new in house calibre sounds good. always been a Navitimer/Cosmonaute fan, but not so much the chronomat and that hasnt changed with the new models. do i take it that the new id is a joint id for the pair of you ? best Graham
No, that's my own...
in honour of my email address. Also, some recent incidents necessitated this step. Cheers, Magnus
unitime
i'm not generally a breitling fan, although the br01 movement is quite pretty and i think the chronomat has been a winner. but that unitime is just gorgeous. can't wait to see it in person. i love the representation of the globe in the center: it has a sl...
i prefer the original Unitime...
i prefer the original Unitime from the 60s Chris. they made some brilliant watches in that era despite using pretty standard chronograph movements. G
may i commit a heresy?
i guess the current one reminds me a little of the approach that vc takes to its world time watch. i like the vc too.... chris
One 2012 Breitling offering I havent read about...
Is this one: http://www.breitling.com/en/models/transocean/transocean-chronograph-qp/presentation/index.php I saw a stainless steel version in the flesh earlier this week in a store in London and fell in love. I really like how Breitling execute their 146...