Horological Meandering

We just ended a fantastic watchmaking week in Paris !

 

You certainly have read several posts here about the activities offered but please let me share with you my experience of this week.

 

An attended conference

 

The beginning of the week was the "Duometre a Chronographe" conference at the Jeu de Paume museum in the gardens of the Tuilerie.

 

Stephane Belmont

 

The conference was given by Mr Yves Meylan, manager of JLC France, Mr Stephane Belmont, head of marketing for JLC, and by our own Amanico, Mr Nicolas Fondaneche!

 

Happy men

 

The conference was a success by its lecture and by its interested and knowledgeable attendance. The numerous and pertinent questions perfectly complemented the lecture.

 

The secret of the Duometre

 

We saw several drawings that I would have been happy to see and use for this article last year :  http://jlc.watchprosite.com/show-nblog.post/ti-367427/

 

Brasserie Lipp

 

The night ended with a pleasing dinner at the Brasserie Lipp on the Boulevard Saint-Germain, after a very nice cocktail at the Jeu de Paume.

 

Tribute to Polaris

 

The dinner was shared by a small group of friends and turned in a meeting of Polaristi ! Actually it was probably the largest worldwide meeting of Tribute to Polaris watches on that night

 

Omega Tourbillon Central

 

The next day was a day of visits for me, while the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master class was going on for the second day (it is ending the 1^st of December).

 

Among the few watches I saw and tried was this magnificent and IMVHO under estimated Omega Tourbillon Central. I should bring Nicolas to see it someday! 

 

Perfect back

 

The next visit was for the Breguet boutique.

 

Breguet La Tradition Tourbillon

 

I chose to have a closer look at the La Tradition Tourbillon prototype currently on show over there.

 

Tasty

 

I've been a fan of the La Tradition range since its launch and this tourbillon is really a cherry on the cake! I hope to see soon a definitive watch.

 

It deserves a plain back

 

This prototype was not functioning but I've been able to see its toubillon carriage rotating. The view on this large balance is really a treat.

 

Try to find a large balance that's not easy

 

I've heard negative comments about the thickness of the watch and specially its top glass. I have to say that I like it the way it is. I see it as an old 'onion" watch worn on the wrist so I like this "bubble" glass.

 

Simple dial

 

After taking a break I went back to Paris on Friday for the second edition of the watch show "Belles Montres".

 

LeCoultre Grande complication calibre 19/20 SMCCSQ

 

The show was hosting a very interesting exhibition of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie about "the world of complication watches".

 

LeCoultre pilot watch

 

The historical exhibition was very rich for JLC lovers, but in fact for any watch lover.

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

 

The Polaris we talk so much about these days was hard to miss, as three watches were on show on different areas.

 

Another Polaris for sale elsewhere in the show

 

This exhibition showed a great success on Friday, even if the show was not too crowdy yet on that first day.

 

Another option

 

It would be hard to choose a favorite watch among those on show but a very rare tear drop lugs minute repeater triple date Vacheron Constantin would be a great choice.

 

Exceptional minute repeater from Vacheron Constantin

 

A well known Parisian vintage watch shop had a nice selection of watches on display in a discreet window!

 

The Reverso below was among these watches.

 

Early Reverso

 

Some of the watches were really historical pieces from nearly a half millenium !!!

 

Early striking pocket watch showing Copernicus made around 1540 in Germany

 

Apparently many people were amazed to discover that some watches could be so old !

 

Another not so recent marvel

 

Still after discussing with several watchmakers and exhibitors it was clear that the overall impression was that the attendance was quite educated in general about horology, and willing to learn and know much more!

 

No see through back yet

 

One of the interests of these shows is to allow us to compare watches that you would rarely imagine to see !

 

Universal day and night pocket watch by Cartier from 1940

 

Sometimes people have a very recent vision of the horological market and it is a very rich experience to see what was made even 20 years ago.

 

The simplest Breguet tourbillon

 

From the picture above to the one below you can see how a concept can evolve and be brought to the extreme.

 

Antoine Preziuso triple tourbillon

 

Still it is hard to say that modern watches are more complicated than the historical ones.

 

Grande complication by Audemars Piguet

 

It is when you see the really old and complicated watches that you think that they were doing an amazing job, without all the modern technical means.

 

back side

 

Then we are just pleased to see that they respect their greatest traditions.

 

Vacheron Constantin minute repeater

 

As I said earlier the choice was impossible!

 

Cartier Tortue minute repeater from 1928

 

Even between eras it is impossible to choose.

 

Daniel Roth minute repeater from 2002

 

You can't choose between complications either !

 

Van Cleef et Arpels Midnight in Paris showing the stars above Paris

 

Some die-hard collectors of very specific brands would perhaps more easily think they can choose, but would they be able to forget all the marvels around?

 

Patek Philippe Nautilus 1977 from the Beyer Museum

 

You could touch the extreme of wrist watches.

 

Extreme watch

 

Let me ask who can make such a  calibre ?

 

This is a Grande Sonnerie calibre from Gerald Genta.

 

The Grande Sonnerie watch from Daniel Roth

 

My favorite opportunity was to hear the fantastic grande sonnerie calibre made by Gerald Genta for its use and the use of Daniel Roth. 1000 pieces or so to produce a fascinating watch

 

Historical Gerald Genta Grande Sonnerie

 

I could even put on my wrist an empty Daniel Roth Grande Sonnerie. I could wear it!

 

8 days tourbillon with perpetual calendar

 

A very handsome 8 days tourbillon Daniel roth with perpetual calendar was showing a new dial, kind of smoked! Really handsome!

 

Perpetual back

 

Still one of my favorite was a very simple watch, the black dial white gold Daniel Roth Athys 2. The two men from DR were really kind but unfortunately didn't let me leave with the watch!

 

Athys 2

 

This kind of show is also an opportunity to see some watches you don't see in shops because of their extreme rarity, even if they are not so expensive.

 

Jaquet Droz

 

There was obviously a wide selection of Jaquet droz watches exhibited.

 

Simple beauty

 

I didn't even know there was a Jaquet Droz pocket watch !

 

The pocket

 

Piaget was showing a watch with a very beautiful dial, engraved and enamelled (we call it "flinque" in France). Among the more complicated Piaget models this one caught my heart!

 

Enamelled dial on a Piaget Altiplano

 

There were not only large brands, or long established brands, but also many independent watchmakers.

 

Romain Gauthier

 

The Vallee de Joux dream team was there with Romain Gauthier and Philippe Dufour.

 

High level of finish

 

These watches are never exhibited in France except at this show, so that was the day to fall in love….

 

Glorified Vallee de Joux

 

All the range of watches made by Philippe Dufour was exhibited.

 

Grande sonnerie pocket watch by Philippe Dufour

 

I was not able to talk to the man this time, but his watches talked to me !

 

Philippe Dufour Duality

 

It's even surprising that the tiny window was still there even after one day with so many marvels inside.

 

Grande sonnerie wristwatch by Philippe Dufour

 

Tha Vallee de Joux was also represented this year by its largest player Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 1

 

The Grande Complication a Triptyque was also on show. Both superwatches will be on show in the JLC boutique in Lyon from the 3^rd till the 8^th of December.

 

Gerald Genta Arena

 

Gerald Genta was also exhibiting a large selection of watches. Apparently the steel watches are disappearing fast from the GG collection!

 

Kari Voutilainen's Chronometre 27

 

It could have been tempting to leave with Mr Voutilainen's window too!!

 

Kari Voutilainen's Observatoire

 

The independants' work range from the perfectly finished classical round watch to the most extreme new design.

 

Vianney Halter's new creation

 

Vianney Halter's creation can hardly leave cold !

 

The Antiqua

 

The work on the cases can also bring to philosophical approches like the B-side from Preziuso. The time indication becomes secondary!

 

Antoine Preziuso B-side

 

I must confess that I'm more appealed by some more classical efforts even from established companies like Girard-Perregaux.

 

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 45

 

Still some watches need to be seen to be appreciated !

 

Andreas Strehler's Papillon

 

I would finally want to end this week with my new watch !

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Polaris 1968 Edition

 

We read so much about it already, but let me say it's not the end but just the beginning.

 

Horrible pic of a superb watch

 

Of course this re-edition can seem to lack of innovation, but we asked for it so…..

 

Nice plexiglass

 

I'm very happy to wear it now and hope it will wake me up tomorrow!

 

A diver

 

Simplicity to some extent !

 

My watch of exception

 

Thanks for reading and thank you for such a week !

 

Dje