Horological Meandering

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A Watch for Someone Like Me!

The price point for this watch puts it in direct competition with known and loved alternatives such as the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony and the Piaget Altiplano. I would argue that this is a worthy competitor for all the reasons mentioned. The additional size to the bezel (for an ultra-thin) and the work required from the engine turned surfaces makes the watch an attractive proposition. The movement is basically the same as others, so what separates this watch out is the engine-turned work on the dial and bezel. Ralph Lauren uses traditional guilloché craftsmanship for its engraving work. Thanks to the partnership, Ralph Lauren Watches have access to workshops utilized by the Richemont Group. RL Watches work with two specialized guillocheurs located in La Chaux de Fonds and Saignelégier. The hand-guided guilloché decorating on the Ralph Lauren Slim Classique watch’s dial and bezel is completed using a rose engine (dating from the 19th century); the work is labour intensive and time consuming, resulting in a limited production for the watch. The rose engine has to be prepared for each different part of the guilloché design. First, the outline - the ‘azurage’ - where the Roman numerals are printed; second, the ‘cremaillere’ or track delineating the numerals; and third, the central ‘grain d’orge’ or barleycorn pattern consisting of 80 waves spiraling from the exterior towards the interior. The time required to carefully prepare each rose engine configuration is significant and while the guilloche is hand-guided, the dials are made in batches rather than individually.

The guillocheur performs a light ‘sablage’– a specialized cleaning method involving pressurized air pushing tiny particles that remove the miniature shavings left over from the engraving process. Then the dial maker will perform ‘brossage’ or specialized brushing that mattefies the metal into an opaline surface. Then it is cleaned and the silvery color is applied with the galvanic method. After the galvanic bath the ‘zapon’ is applied to protect the silvery color from oxidation. After which the dial markings (minute markers, Roman numerals, ‘Ralph Lauren’ logo) are printed.

The machine settings for the grain d’orge’ or barleycorn pattern are not altered for the bezel guillochage as the curvature of the bezel curves on one axis and the guillocheur can offset the curvature of the pattern against the curvature of the bezel.

If you forget about the name on the dial for the moment, it is a watch that will both be a classic dress watch now and a classic dress watch in the future. The watch will ‘wear’ with time and collect its own patina, especially on the back of the case; the bezel should retain its shine because of the polished engine turned surface.

There are a number of variants for the watch. There is a 38mm version and a 42mm version (that I was wearing). The watch can have jewels set in the bezel in either baguette or round form. I have to say that if you are into a watch with bling, and you want it to be subtle rather than something akin to a search light, then this would be a good choice.

I found the watch looks good with any suit/shirt colour combination. I had to give the watch back, but as I look back, the memories of the watch remain; and as the song says “They can’t take that away from me.”







Andrew H