Girard Perregaux

SIHH 2012: GP

 

As you know, GP presented this year its latest collection in the context of the SIHH. The decision to move to Baselworld in 2013 is absolutely not surprising, Sowind being now a subsidiary of PPR. If I regret this decision for personal reasons (nothing can replace the   SIHH organization), I believe it is the right decision for the future of GP. In a sense, the presence at the SIHH is perfect for brands which already have the right level of recognition and visibility. SIHH is very selected fair which can be visited only with an invitation and I think that GP needs something else now,  in order to reach a larger audience not in terms of customers but in terms of image. Moreover there is a sort of effervecence at Baselworld which makes communication between the staff of the brands easier and this can be also favourable to GP. More people will understand why GP is one of the top Manufactures in the world.

But before moving to Basel, there was a 2012 collection and this collection was very important, being  the first "PPR" one. It was a very comprehensive collection exploring all the sides of the Manufacture, from simple 3 hands watches to a striking watch without forgetting uncommon Tourbillons. I propose to browse the watches I had the chance to see during my appointment at the GP booth, I will come back to some of them later this year.

Let's start by the 1966 collection. As I mentioned it in another post, I always found the "1966"name not the best to describe the purpose of the collection. 1966 is a year of innovation, of break-through with the high frequency movement. On the other hand, the 1966 collection symbolises the elegant and understated side of the Manufacture.  Of course,if  there is not any true opposition between these two dimensions, I would have chosen a more relevant name.

At first glance, you may think that this 3 hands 1966 is not a novelty. And you would be wrong! Because this watch is housing caliber 4500 which is larger (30,6mm) than the 3300 (26,2mm) used in the similar 38mm watch. The consequence is a larger case (sorry, I don't remember exactly the actual size) but the dial balance is preserved. The watch tends to be too big for my taste due to the thin bezel and the 38mm version was enough. Anyway, this enlarged version remains attractive and it is a very worthy way to enter GP world.













Maybe the most famous watch of the 1966 collection is the Annual Calendar / Equation of Time. Not because the watch is worn by the French president but thanks to its very clever and original dial lay-out. Forget the usual logic and very quickly the position of the different displays on the dial becomes very practical and brings a lot of pleasure at the daily use. The 2012 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time keeps its 40mm case but offers a new combo: pink gold case and slate dial. The watch becomes even more refined (the sunray finishings of the dial are really beautiful) and the months display is highlighted due to the higher contrast between the white months disk and the slate dial. 

















If with this watch,  a pure aesthetical evolution was done, it is not the case with the 1966 chronograph because it gets an additional complication: a date window.










I already expressed my love for the dial of the 1966 chronograph. GP designers did a great job here again because the date window was well inserted on the dial even if it gives the proof that caliber and module are a bit lost in the case. I appreciated a lot the use of applied figures which give volume on the dial (they replace the indexes of the "no date" chronograph). This 40mm  watch is a pure beauty with similar strengthes and weaknesses than the "no date" chronograph. Its main assets are its classic and elegant dial and the 1966 case. Its main weakness  is the use of a modular caliber. If we turn over the watch, we discover the base movement and absolutely not an integrated movement. It is fairly disappointing for a Manufacture like GP but they work on this topic.







All these watches share in common the comfort of the 1966 case. Whatever are their diameters, the short and curved lugs  make the case very comfortable on the wrist.

Now, let's discover the main novelty within the 1966 collection: the Minute Repeater.

It is without any doubt a watch which was expected by GP fans as the 1966 collection has started to explore a wide range of complications. GP reputation on striking watches was strongly reinforced thanks to the 3 Opera and now the MR complication is housed in the 1966 case.
Forget any reference with the Opera: the 1966 Minute Repeater strikes diffently from the Opera 1 or 2 and the caliber has nothing related with the Opera 1. Actually, the movement was developped by La Fabrique du Temps and if you compare it with the Louis Vuitton Minute Repeater, you will recognize a similar lay-out. But in the context of the GP, its finishings, its architecture is much more impressive.








Work on the movement was really outstanding and I would like to underline some features:

- first of all, the bridges were opened almost like a skeletonized finishing: the key parts of the movement are clearly visible and isolated. The visual result is truly eye-catching with a feeling of depth. Everything is visible from the backside: inertia wheel, countersprings, minutes rack, hammers... One of the most beautiful elements is the balance bridge inspired by the Tourbillon Gold Bridges.
- second interest of this finishing style is the accessibility to these crucial parts to improve service and adjustment.
- third interest is obviously sound purety. When the GP team made the watch strike, I was impressed by the "silence" around the MR notes. You don't hear the inertia wheel, the sound is very clear and pure which is a proof a great technical achievement.







Movement has a 3hz frequency and a power reserve of 100 hours.




MR mecanism is launched through the sliding lever on the left side of the case. This lever is clearly visible and it is the reason why I would have prefered an enamel dial without the "Répétition Minutes" on it. Anyway, these two words remain quite shy and they don't spoil the dial balance.
The enamel dial contributes a lot to the charm of the watch. It is perfectly balanced (see the small hand subdial) and the applied figures give volume. Combo between the blued hands and the dial is gorgeous.




Thanks to its shape, 42mm PG case gets the proper air circulation for a better sound propagation.




I was seduced by this watch thanks to its sound purety and the contrast between the quiet dial side and the luxurious and gorgeous movement. One of the top watches of the 2012 SIHH.

Enjoy the sound dial side:

And movement side:


I spoke a few lines before about the Gold Bridges and their shapes. So let's discover now this new version of the Laureato Tourbillon with spinel bridges. I presented you several years ago the version with sapphire bridges but the very light blue shades of spinel makes the watch even more luminous. How can we describre it? The Laureato Tourbillon is for me a "Star-Trek" watch, I mean a futuristic watch coming from the past. It has a lot of charm and the Tourbillon, combined with the spinel shades  defines an unusual atmosphere. When you move your wrist, the bridges seem to act like neon rods!




42,6 mm Titanium case with vertical satin-brushed finish makes the watch very comfortable on the wrist and the octogonal bezel, along with the bridges, enhance the geometric design of the watch.







Automatic movement has a power reserve of 48 hours and a 3hz frequency. As usual, the winding rotor is located dial side which allows to keep a handwind movement lay-out backside.




The dial is twice animated by the Tourbillon and the rotor: the Laureato Tourbillon is a living watch, almost live-wire!




We stay with a similar movement with this 41mm Tourbillon with 3 Gold Bridges: the change can be found in the shape of the bridges which gets the central rod (vs the previous  two rods bridges) to make the whole design "lighter". I much prefer this version because, for me, it makes more enjoyable the view on the rotor and the Tourbillon.










Of course, the same impressive feeling of depth was preserved and we can spend hours watching the dial details. Same remark than with the Laureato has to be made here: thanks to the rotor dial-side, lay-out of the movement is similar to a handwind one. Power reserve is 48 hours and frequency is 3 hz. A fascinating watch which allows to take advantage of the beauty of the 3 bridges Tourbillon in a more classic context than with the Laureato.




Two new members join the Vintage 1945 family with the Large Date Moonphases and the Chronograph with enlarged cases. Sadly, I couldn't shoot the Chronograph. I present you the Large date Moonphases which is my fav between the two.




Lay-out of the dial is perfect thanks to the large date system and the big Moonphases display which fills the bottom side. This display brings a poetic atmosphere to the watch and also balances the overall design. Due to the case enlargement, thanks to this display, the watch doesn't look too big because there is no empty "areas" on the dial. Applied figures are more than welcome here enhancing the elegancy of the watch.
Case dimensions are: 36,1 x 35,25 (almost a square case) and despite the enlargement, size remains very reasonable. Why? Because the typical lugs are very short and because the case has a curved shape which makes it very comfortable on the wrist. This curved design is a key point with these watches.







Automatic movement is based on the 3300 has a 4hz frequency and a 46 hours power reserve.

Cases are available in PG and in SS (this more affordable version being another opportunity to discover GP world with a high quality/price ratio watch).

Ladies were not forgotten! I come back to the 1966 collection because I wished to finish the report with it. I must confess I have a secret love of watches without date and moonphases display. This very fine 1966 Lady Moonphases, based on the 3300 movement has a 36mm PG case and a diamonds set bezel.








The harmony between the moonphases display, the MOP dial and the set bezel makes the watch very  attractive. My only concern is about brand name on the dial: I would have prefered it to see it smaller. Anyway, this ladies' watch was also a great achievement by the GP Manufacture.

Report is over now. Sadly, I couldn't see each and every watch which was unveiled this year due to a busy activity at the booth but I could present you the 4 pillars of the new collection:

- 1966 Minute Repeater
- Laureato Tourbillon Spinel Bridges
- Vintage 1945 Large Date Moonphases
- 1966 Lady Moonphases

With this collection, GP found the best way to say goodbye to SIHH and I will regret not to see them again at Palexpo in the future... but at the same time, I know that Baselworld will be the right place to support their future ambition.

Thanks a lot to the GP team for the warm welcome at the booth!

Fr.Xavier

This message has been edited by foversta on 2012-02-12 03:22:16