Girard Perregaux

PeterCDE
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(JR 2007) A new chronograph by JEANRICHARD you will like...

G'day,

JeanRichard introduced some really interesting models this year!
Some feature unique functions and solutions, such as the "2Timezones" or the "Paramount Time Square".
But there´s a feast for the eyes of enthusiasts appreciating Haute Horlogerie too:



Reference 98112-53-21A is the plain calling, but it´s full name "Bressel 1665 Chronograph Tourbillon" suggests there´s more to this seemingly unspectacular model. It´s a very legible watch with a great contrast of the grey dial and gold hands with luminous inlays:



The solid silver dial is nicely finished with "sunray" guilloche patterns; the effect comes to play under changing light conditions, when light reflections cause it to appear lighter or darker. That´s an interesting and beautiful effect:



But what looks like a rather unobtrusive, classic chronograph at first might well be the ultimate stealth watch for some lucky collectors out there...

Before we have a peek under the hood, an impression of the case.
The new 98112 Bressel Chronograph extends the "Bressel 1665" line with it´s beautiful classic case; basically sized as other models of this watch line with a diameter of 42mm, it makes for a very wearable and comfortable watch.
The new Bressel Chronograph adds in height for the reason of sporting a complicated chronograph movement, which results in a very substantial wrist feeling keeping in mind this model is crafted in White Gold. It´s not light by any means, but not excessively heavy and thus qualifies perfectly for a watch that accompanies many of your days on the wrist.
As expected for a Haute Horlogerie watch, the tactile feel of the pushers is a great one and results in a very smooth and exact pusher feel. This is further assisted by the massive pushers, which sit almost flush inside the case and have very little lateral play (which is something not easily achieved with this pusher shape and requires a lot of attention during production).



Flipping the watch over, the sun comes out

The new 98112 Bressel Chronograph Tourbillon of course features a Tourbillon, but not just *any* tourbillon.
It´s power works is, in the modest and humble way JeanRichard prefers to name the references, simply referred to as caliber Sowind 98CJ. And that doesn´t do this beauty any justice:



In fact it is a manufacture-made tourbillon chronograph of a special kind, for two reasons:
The "SOWIND" part of the caliber reference points at an in-house production within the SOWIND facilities. As you know, "SOWIND" is an abbreviation for "Societé Windrose", which was the first holding founded by Dr. Gino Macaluso in late 1970´s. Then it´s been intended to coordinate watch activities, which started long before acquiring the brands of JeanRichard and Girard-Perregaux. Of which, as a surprise probably, Jeanrichard is the older! In fact, years before acquiring Girard-Perregaux, there have been some few watches labelled SOWIND and JeanRichard for the Italy market.
Like a windrose, the group is open towards all directions; today, it is the privately owned umbrella group of the Macaluso family that combines all manufacturing capacities for both watch brands.

It thus makes for a genuine in-house piece, designed and created within the groups own facilities.

And in some way, it´s "best of both worlds":
The caliber SOWIND 98CJ goes back to GP´s famous Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon, which might be apparent from the position and size of the solid gold tourbillon bridge. It´s one of exceptionally few tourbillons truly representing a manufacture-made creation and among, if not the, oldest movement construction still in production today, directly going back to the construction of Constant Girard-Perregaux as patented in 1884.



In the Bressel 1665 Chronograph Tourbillon, it is a "hidden" design; instead of the iconic bridges that usually cover the mainspring barrel and third wheel of the movement, a single bridge accounts for the different appearance.



It still shares some key elements of the GP variants, such as the huge jewel that covers the barrel.
And the larger plate, the more space for a nice finish, which here features a beautifully engrave signature and "cotes de Geneve" pattern decoration!

Keeping in mind the pictured example is the very first prototype made and not perfectly representing the actual production pieces, it´s truly a "trick watch".
The seemingly unspectacular front reveals one of the most famous movements ever made, but only if and when the lucky owner allows to see. An understatement piece, as much as it is a true Haute Horlogerie watch.



The data sheet:

     Bressel 1665 Chronograph Tourbillon

     Reference 98112-53-21A 

  Sowind 98CJ in-house manufactured manual-winding mechanical movement
  46 jewels, frequency 21.600 vib./hour (3 Hz)
  70 hours minimum power reserve
  Chronograph with tourbillon under single gold bridge
  18k white gold case
  Case diameter 42 mm
  Case height 16.21 mm
  Curved, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  Case-back fastened with 6 screws
  Hand bevelled tourbillon bridge and carriage
  Upper bridge vertical “Côtes de Genève” finish
  Water-resistant to 30 m
  Hand “guilloché” on a gold dial
  Square-scale full skin hand stitched alligator strap with 18k white gold folding buckle

Over all, the new ref. 98112 is a very special watch.
It´s certainly unforseen for the portfolio of JeanRichard and the brand´s focus on sportive elegant watches "with a twist".
Nonetheless, JeanRichard is a full-fledged manufacture with a range of 8 interesting base movements and complications. This certainly allows to create a little icing on the portfolio cake, where the new "Bressel 1665 Tourbillon Chronograph" comes to play.
The watch is a very wearable, comfortable and legible piece, unobtrusive at first casual sight, promising to be accurate and sturdy to withstand daily wear and certainly a lot less "flashy" than other tourbillons by competitive brands lately, of which only few manage to create an in-house tourbillon movement.
Notwithstanding the inflation of tourbillon watches over the past years, there´s definetely a place for the genuine, legitimate and simply beautiful watch JeanRichard´s new gem certainly is.

I like it - and i´m sure those who will have the rare chance to see it in nature will do too.

Greetings from Germany,

Peter