Mark in Paris
[Purist]
10488
The “profiles” overview of the 2017 Patek Philippe collection
Hi everyone,
As I said before, Patek Philippe watches are often about details, many decoration elements that add a lot to a watch’s appeal. These are usually the ones we don’t look at directly or don’t even notice but that make a watch more attractive.
Some cases in watchmaking are designed to look spectacular or trendy but this
is not what Patek is about. It impresses by its work's subtlety and the mastery
of adding refined details, even when the brand chooses surprisingly to add
diamond-set markers we’ve seen lately, as like yellow gold is again more
appreciated today.
The case's shape or the dials are the most obvious but there is also a part we
don't pay as much attention to: the
profile. This part of the watch says a lot on this matter and the effort
Patek put in a watch design and crafting.
I compiled here below the profile photos of all the watches presented during
Baselworld 2017 (new versions of existing references or brand new ones). As I already wrote here, these photos underline
the effort Patek puts in case crafting and design, something that only a few
traditional brands do today.
I hope you’ll enjoy them 
Best, Mark
PS: you can see also Baselworld 2016's profiles thread here: www.watchprosite.com
MEN WATCHES
5078G and 5178G Minute Repeater (resp. 38 and 40mm cases): how to use rounded elements and nice curves, the bezel (and how it works with the glass curved the other way), the caseband and even the caseback.
5131P World Time with enamel dial: something we already know, very classical, elegant and timeless.
5168G Aquanaut: some straights line very well combined. Definitely a more modern case interpretation. Even the lugs are slightly curved in order to follow the straps' shape, from the bezel to the end.
5170P Chronograph: compared to the references presented above, the case looks independent from the lugs, as if it was articulate, yet they work beautifully.
5180R Skeletonized: Patek's thinness in a delicate and smooth interpretation, right till the bracelet links that look like water drops.
5316P Minute Repeater, Perpetual Calendar and Tourbillon (40mm case): a grand complication marvel that is, as usual for the brand, included in a case that doesn't look massive.
5320G Perpetual Calendar: the new glass profile takes its place in the stepped construction with the bezel, caseband and caseback. The proportions and shapes of each level are imho pure perfection. It is also visible in the lugs, all is coherent and very 1920's. Maybe my favorite profile from this year.
5372G Split-Second and Perpetual Calendar (38.3mm case): a unique design discovered with the 5370P 2 years ago. The thicker look compared to some references above is certainly due to the 38.3mm only case. I love those small and thick cases (like the 5930G).
5396R Annual Calendar: a classic for the brand, very discreet and yet more contemporary than rounder 5130/5140's cases.
5650G Aquanaut Dual Time "Advanced Research" 20th anniversary:
5940R Perpetual Calendar: it is not the best view on the tonneau-shaped reference, however it is still a very subtle and elegant design. That's what the 5940 is all about.
5960G Chronograph and Annual Calendar: my beloved 5960 reference's case
(I'm totally biased here :p ). The addition of the new pushers is a great move since I saw it in the metal.
5960/1A Chronograph and Annual Calendar: ah, my beloved 5960 (oops I just said that already)
6006G Calatrava: how to modernize a lightly rounder Calatrava case in order to have something a little more contemporary without going too far.
LADIES WATCHES
7118/1A Nautilus: a classic Nautilus profile, showing each time a very appealing work imho
4947G Annual Calendar: nice stepped work again though very different from the ones we saw in the past. Patek brings each time diversity from predecessors.
7140G Perpetual Calendar:
4899/900G: gem-stting on such a rounder profile looks beautiful I think. For a woman I think it can make a nice daylight wearer as well with jeans.
7130G World Time: here I see the profile as a definitely dressier section, with a wonderful design thanks to the way the diamonds are placed.
5062-450R Aquanaut:
5072R Aquanaut:
The “profiles” overview of the 2017 Patek Philippe collection
Hi everyone, As I said before, Patek Philippe watches are often about details, many decoration elements that add a lot to a watch’s appeal. These are usually the ones we don’t look at directly or don’t even notice but that make a watch more attractive. So...
Great and interesting post Mark...
...an interesting angle to look at things, and specially our wathes 😉 Best, Mike
Thanks for putting this together, Mark.
I’ve always thought Patek’s cases are among the most thoughtful and nicely detailed in the industry, so it’s nice to see this type of presentation. The concave bezel, a Patek specialty, is very hard to capture in photos but I think gives the watches a gre...
I totally agree
You spotted them precisely. This is not what I noticed or even paid attention to at the beginning but when I started to discover many different ones and realizing that they must not be that easy to craft, I thought about what is behind all this work. The ...
Thanks Mark for the enlightening post!
Looks like Patek has covered all angles with its case design
The diversity of shapes is indeed quite amazing
and not only in number but in quality (appeal). Things to look at when handling a new watch Thank you Sham Best, Mark
Those are great pictures
Patek is all about subtle details, and case details like this are perfect examples, and quite under-appreciated. I won't name names, but have a look at the "monotone" cases from some other manufacturers (even housing otherwise spectacular complications), ...
It is indeed not the things we look necessarily at first
and sometimes we don't realize at all. You're right. I often suggested in the past to have alook at this detail, especially when comparing two models from Patek or with another brand. This is definitely something to consider. I totally agree with you. Tha...
Thank you Mark for put these PP profiles in perspective. Very good idea.
I love the creativity of Patek in this domain and I can’t miss a little comparison with Lange. I would like to see less conservatism from my favourite brand regarding the case and lugs of its timepieces. Please Lange... surprise me with more creativity li...
You make a good point
As mesmerising and theatrical Lange movements are, they can be more creative with the case design, something Patek has truly mastered in some of their timepieces. I was browsing at some VC timepieces recently and failed to be impressed by their case desig...
May be an incomplete explanation to this statement could come from the relatively low number of timepieces made by Lange comparatively to Patek.
A risk taking could be more “dangerous” for Lange vs Patek which could explain why they are so conservative regarding case designs 🤔 Best wishes Alkiro
Different histories, cultural environement etc...
They are indeed two great brands with a different philosophy on the case matter. I guess the volumes produced and the culture explain a part of how they are designed. I started around 2010 with a 1815 in rose gold, so I also enjoyed Lange. Then I moved to...
My pleasure dear Mark
Watch brands always have to find the right equilibrium between offering something new or different and being “conservative” in the good sense of the word or close to their roots. May be Lange will surprise us in the coming years. I cross my fingers for su...
I like this post very much
It is an aspect often not well presented. Thx for sharing, Dirk
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Indeed, these are elements that are worthy having a closer look at: more elements to enjoy and maybe other elements to have a look at when considering a purchase Thank you Dirk! Best, Mark
Different perspective
Thank you so much for such a lovely post. As usually people do not post pictures of watches' sides this one is like a breathe of fresh air. It is a pity though that PP uses pushers for their calendars.
My pleasure Alex!
There are a few elements of watches that we indeed don't see often or don't pay enough attention too. The cases work is something that deserves some By "pushers" do you mean the discreet activators that we set with a stylet? If all settings were made by t...
Thank you for your insight Mark
Cases are not always appreciated, it is indeed what makes Patek so special. I really love the 5372P case and profile, such a work of art 😍
I agree
I also think it is one of the main assets of Patek watches when we look at them more closely. They make them smaller than they are or better proportionate etc... Playing with the curves is very important and require, each time, different crafting settings...
Many thanks for putting this together, Mark.
Very interesting to see all these beautiful profiles. Best, Volker
Hi Mark, thanks for an unusual post which is very interesting !
Have not thought about comparing watches this way. A creative post indeed. Thank you ! Gordon
My pleasure Gordon :)
This is not the first thing we think about indeed. In fact it is good to have a look at them and, in the mean time, it is something to leave aside to have a look at the whole picture. However, it helps understanding what efforts are put into a watch or an...
Thorough, informative post Mark. Very interesting window through which we can identify and appreciate very distinct, but perhaps less obvious, characteristics among PP's references.
I really enjoyed reading and considering. Thank you for taking the time
This is an element I looked at a little better as time went by
and finally realized that it could bring a lot of pleasure too. Thanks a lot for your kind comments! Best, Mark
Fantastic post. Thanks Mark.
A new way of looking at the watches. I will start tonight. Best, Kari
You'll have a very interesting diversity
in your great collection. Thank you Kari Best, Mark
Thank you , Mark. What a unique...
post. A nice way of looking at things. It made me go look at a couple of my watches!
I realised I enjoyed some of them very much
next to the dial side that is usually the first thing we closley look at. Enjoy your watches Srg and thank you for your nice comments! Best, Mark
