Harry Winston

bernard cheong
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So what do I should one feel or expect from an Opus?

The word Opus when crossed checked with both dictionary and thesaurus will spring off 12 results that have 2 parameters in common to all 12...(1) Music and (2) Literature.

It speaks to us of emotions and of grandeur.

I put it on record here, that I feel that without Opus, Harry Winstom would HARDLY be a tad better off than Tiffany or LV or Hermes. Opus put HWRT on the map..it MUST be treated with respect. It must not be a place to demonstrate ego...not the watchmakers or the watch designer (in this case of Opus 8).

Wanna show off how fantastic desgns can be...try making another Harry Winston..like their Tourbillon with the slidding winder...its good..but NOT an Opus.

Music, literature, they are creative ..and in classical terms they are emotional...

In Opus 1, when it was introduced as the first Opus, it had instant music..and FP Journe remains famous today. The lines of the case of Journe's work, the Resonance, the Octa...they live and they made a new language for watches that kept classical Patek traditions. Remember that then.no one had really felt the FP Journe "magic" yet.

In Opus 2, Antoine, bless him, made a grandiose and grand watch, huge impressive. It was ostentateous, and glamorous..nothing new by today's standards. Highly emotional no doubt, creative with a venner of decorations, with Antoine;s distinctive style. I hated this Opus..but I accepted it as worthy...Opus had yet to set a style...a standard.

In Opus 3, the apogee of all watch making was made. It created..a true concept..so absolute a concept that it CAN BE MADE, a possibility, and yet created huge arguments that it may not be possible..that is really making a concept. Mistakes made in 2005 were probably to conserve the money spent in the cases..which were already made. By confining the first 2 teams of engineers to work to fit the Opus 3 movement into the original cases..it blocked the path for them. So probably with a new case, and by discarding the older cases and writting off the loss, we will see Opus 3. Opus 3 carries TRULY 7 whip type mechanisms worthy of a Grande Sonnorie, it digital system is far in vision, over the horizons of most watchmakers, and even engineers, that cannot be imagiined even by Jumod and Vianney together...beleive me when I say I have spent time there! Vianney is a legend today. It is music and literature it is the spirit...this opus 3..the stillborn child! I wonder if even all the Kings men at RM and AP R&P can make Opus 3.

In Opus 4 with Claret, Max struggled to create an item with Claret to make a mirror to Opus 2, henceforth creating a musical theme of Odds and Evens..Opus 1 with Journes Patek type sensuality and volume of metal, and both Opus 2 and 4 being choral works...choruses that repeat..and note they were chiming watches...the subtle ryhme..the play..and so Opus 4 ended up grand and ostentateous! I hated that too..but it deserved to be Opus. It belonged. It measured up. The themes of Opus were already set by then.

In Opus 5, it was time to create a movement that was a melody that had a counter play to Opus 3..VERY difficult..henceforth a team from URWERK, came forth and the Opus 5, a legend in itself was born. Today, IMHO, it is the GREATEST and most expensive Opus ever made, and born alive. The Opus 5 was COLD..it was MERCILESS, but it has emotions...it had the ICE cold mirror of the future..the kind of ICE COLD digital that I think Opus 8 was trying to put forth...but forgot that the CRITICAL ingredient in an Opus must have... CLASS, TASTE, and GRANDEUR (in a measured dose).

In Opus 6, again it was played as..a chorus...something done before..and so..Greubel Forsey played the old hand of a familiar angled tourbillon...a simple chorus..emotional simply by colors employed...no more. Afain an even number..a simple Opus..not outstanding. But measures up...accepted. A repeat of Opus 2 and 4.old theme..but with color.

In Opus 7, time for a never been done melody again...and so Andreas brings forth the Opus 7. It is emotional, grand, and played out well..alive BUT almost failed as a melody..almost....nevertheless, I felt it measured up..just. It was weird enough...

In Opus 8...Hmmmm...my previous analysis still holds. A watchmaker would not have put this movement into an Opus, a design team or fashion team would, an engineer would..so Frederick..it is NOT your fault, and I admire your being such a good sport. In fact, you will be remembered here among watchmakers for being the first engineer, and non watchmaker, to make an Opus ( or rather design one).

I feel that it was the HWRT execs that did not understand what Opus meant to the people like us..who study and buy these watches with our money, we are NOT analysing it for writting an opinion, but analysing it to purchase to add to our collection...and so in a cigar room, in a bar, over a game of golf,  in a discussion...I willl say this Opus does not belong. It is ..cheap looking...like a Diesel or Fossil. Worse, it can be made soon in China...see the music box design.

An imaginative but not creative design...too music box derived, and too simple, no matter how many "complications" have eebn added new...they are not emotional enough.

Let me try to put it this way, Opus are like music played with wind and strings...the Opus 8 is played with a Yamaha Electone..I play saxophone, piano and I also play the Morrison Digital Trumpet (hand made for me by James Morrison's team in Australia)..so I know what I am talking about. I like the sound of my digital Morrison and it is DAMNED good!!! But in humility, it cannot yet, yet..compare to or measure up to a string/wind instrument...a watchmaker or musician would KNOW and FEEL these differences..but a guy with a CD collection, playing a KRELL or Mark Levinson probably can't tell and does not care...worse..thinks he can!!!

The Opus 8 could have been better executed with more emotion. Using the same 6 complications as listed out.

It needs a better case, a different dial, a different lug, a different way to attach the strap design, it should have a certain respect for the watch collector ..now that is the hard part..how does a designer KNOW how to design and factor in.. "respect" and not "contempt" for the customer's wallet and taste.  If the Opus 8 had a more emotional case, an exterior...and also a price that reflects its position among the Opus.

Contempt is a strong word, and it is used here with respect from me to HWRT and to Frederick..I think it was unintentional...but contempt slipped thru....I sensed it was "make it as expensive as the consumer is willling to pay", and as unusual and wacky. "They will buy". WRONG. Maybe the noveau riche, and it will come to pass. They may be wearing it, and draw the sniggers from across the room...from being the new members of the golf club...whatever...

No matter how complicated, how great one's past achievemnets have been...watchmaking in the TOP end has always had an air of humility..Patek, VC, AP, Dufour, Kari, Vianney..there is restraint and a dash of boldness mixed with an obvious message of "creativity".

The watchmaker's touch is lost in Opus 8.

This is the voice of a single purist..I mean NO MALICE and most of all...HWRT have been the NICEST people to me....but if here at the purists, we cannot be honest..then where? Also...in the past, and even today...like testing a car or a wine..one has to drive or taste it. In watches, I suppose, I created a standard ...JUST for myself...I must honestly say that I can and intend to consider buying it if I were to either priase it highly or condemning it. Or else..I stay away. This is very painful to my own finances...painful. eg..I cannot afford or feel like buying a Patek Grand Complication..so I don't write about it..it's just me...I can't figure out my emotions unless it is a watch I intend to buy, or have short listed to buy.

No offense to journalists...but for any of what I personally comment on..I do so as a genuine customer. The customer's voice...so to speak. Rare in the world of Opus customers. Most don't read all this stuff...yet...

Those who know me, know that it hurts me to criticise Opus and HWRT as I have been around LONGER as a part of HWRT's image than many who now work at the company...and I have never been partial. Better still...I pay to buy the products, HWRT did not pay me one cent.

Much more than my 2 cents.