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Royal Oak Jumbo: an (incomplete) overview
The history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is so rich that exhaustivity is both exhausting and almost impossible.
Therefore, I have decided to leave aside the openwork variants and the RD#3 Tourbillon.
For a more complete information, please read the following articles:
- The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Series by Denis Peshkov for Monochrome
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ by Jasper Lijfering for Amsterdam Vintage watches
- The Royal Oak "Jumbo" models on AP Chronicles
A/ THE INITIAL REF. 5402 - LAUNCHED IN 1972
Case dimensions: 39 x 7.15 mm
Automatic caliber 2121, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 920/921 base. Measuring 3.05mm thick and 28mm in diameter, it is among the thinnest full-rotor automatic movements with a date complication.
credit: Audemars Piguet
1/ STEEL REF. 5402ST
The AP logo was initially placed at 6 o'clock, as in the document above and the photo below:
Somewhere at the end of the 1970s, the AP logo moved to the 12 o’clock position, as in the example below:
credit: Phillips, Monochrome & Audemars Piguet
2/ STEEL & YELLOW GOLD REF. 5402SA
credit: House of Time
3/ YELLOW GOLD REF. 5402BA
credit: Wind Vintage & Audemars Piguet
4/ WHITE GOLD REF. 5402BC
credit: Phillips
B/ JUBILEE REF. 14802 - 1992 COMMEMORATIVE EDITION LIMITED TO 1,000 PIECES
Production included:
- 692 in steel with blue and salmon pink dials
- 286 in yellow gold (14802BA, ivory and slate grey dials, gold and white dials added later)
- 20 in platinum (14802PT, blue and hammered Tuscany blue dials, released from 1995 onward)
To showcase the calibre 2121, a three-part case replaced the monobloc one.
Most gold rotors engraved with a 20th-anniversary motif and corresponding case number.
Another notable difference is repositioning the AP logo to replace the 12 o’clock index.
1/ STEEL REF. 14802ST
credit: Momemtum Dubai & Watch Club London
2/ YELLOW GOLD REF. 14802BA
credit: Oliver & Clarke & Monochrome
3/ PLATINUM REF. 14802PT
credit: Phillips
C/ THE 1996 REF. 15002
Production remained extremely limited: only 174 pieces were made in steel and 12 in yellow gold.
The bezel’s bevel angle increased from 40 to 45 degrees. Additional tweaks included a slightly larger AP monogram at 12 o’clock and an enlarged Audemars Piguet signature.
credit: 41 Watch
2/ YELLOW GOLD REF. 15002BA
credit: Antiquorum
D/ THE OBSCURE REF. 15128ST - ONLY 50 PIECES MADE
Each watch was delivered with 2 dials: one green and one blue, both featuring a Tappiserie patern limited to the center.
The uncommon Arabic numerals and the AP logo surrounding it are luminous.
Last but not least the Arabic minute track is another unicum.
credit: European Watch Company
credit: European Watch Company
E/ THE MODERN REF. 15202 LAUNCHED IN 2000
This reference stood out for its Grande Tapisserie dial, a departure from the traditional Petite Tapisserie, adding a bolder texture.
The case returned to a three-piece construction with a sapphire crystal caseback.
1/ STEEL
BLUE DIAL REF. 15202ST.OO.0944ST.02
WHITE DIAL REF. 15202ST.OO.0944ST.01
In 2012, for the 40th Anniversary, the reference 15202 was updated with:
- Petite Tapisserie dial with matching date disc
- AP logo at 6 o'clock, like the very first ref. 5402
- New rotor
- New clasp.
REF. 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A
credit: 41Watch
2/ WHITE GOLD REF. 15202BC.OO.1240BC.01
3/ PLATINUM REF. 15202PT.OO.1240PT.01
4/ YELLOW GOLD
BLUE DIAL REF. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.01.A
GOLD DIAL REF. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.02.A
5/ ROSE GOLD REF. 15202OR.OO.1240OR.01.A
credit: Monochrome, The Watch Club & 41Watch
6/ TITANIUM & PLATINUM REF. 15202IP.OO.1240IP.01
GOLD DIAL REF. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.02.A
5/ ROSE GOLD REF. 15202OR.OO.1240OR.01.A
credit: Monochrome, The Watch Club & 41Watch
6/ TITANIUM & PLATINUM REF. 15202IP.OO.1240IP.01
credit: Monochrome
7/ ONLY WATCH 2021 REF. 15202XT
The bezel and studs of the bracelet are made of Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG).
The dark grey coloured (rhodium-toned) dial features the classic “Petite Tapisserie” pattern.
credit: Wristcheck
credit: Wristcheck
F/ THREE ADDITIONAL SPECIAL EDITIONS
1/ THE HOUR GLASS EDITION REF. 15205BA.OO.1240BA.01
credit: Sjx
2/ THE TWO "YOSHIDA" REFS. 15206PT.OO.1240PT.01 (PLATINUM) & 15207OR.OO.1240OR.01 (PINK GOLD)
These two references were sold exclusively at Yoshida, one of the oldest Japanese retailers, located in Tokyo.
credit: k2luxury & Watches.de
G/ THE 2022 REF. 16202
The most significant evolution was the introduction of the newly developed Calibre 7121.
1/ STEEL BLUE DIAL REF. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.01 (50th ANNIVERSARY) or 16202ST.OO.1240ST.02
credit: Monochrome
2/ WHITE GOLD TUSCAN DIAL REF. 16202BC.OO.1240BC.02
credit: Monochrome
3/ YELLOW GOLD FUMÉ DIAL REF. 16202BA.OO.1240BA.01 or 16202BA.OO.1240BA.02
credit: Monochrome
4/ ROSE GOLD REF. 16202OR.OO.1240OR.01 or 16202OR.OO.1240OR.02
credit: Fratello
5/ TITANIUM & BMG REF. 16202XT.OO.1240XT.01
credit: Swiss Watches Magazine
6/ PLATINUM REF. 16202PT.OO.1240PT.01
credit: Watch Collecting Lifestyle
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
Royal Oak Jumbo: an (incomplete) overview
The history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is so rich that exhaustivity is both exhausting and almost impossible . Therefore, I have decided to leave aside the openwork variants and the RD#3 Tourbillon . For a more complete information , please re...
Bravo!
Extraordinary work as always mate! Lovely info and images - you keep on producing top notch quality content again and again, and I both applaud and appreciate it! 5402SA is absolutely sublime! Wish that AP would reintroduce more bimetal pieces as I just c...
Thank you so much for your very kind words, Eikþyrnir!
I also find the 5402SA very appealing. AP could reintroduce these bimetallic models, but the vintage charm is unique and a modern watch wouldn't have it, unfortunately. Best, Emmanuel
Yes, it seems to be exactly the same: 5402st with AP logo at 12.
So, not an example from the first series. You might be interested in reading this article: Frank and his Vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ 5402ST And also this one: The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Series , where you can...
Amazing post...
I almost landed this.one, but the stars were aligned for a different client, who at that time had spent 2mio + at the house in geneva. This is what i was told. ...
Sorry. The rest of my post somehow never got posted.
I was going to say I truly love reading all of your educational and informative posts, which elucidate all of us watch lovers on so many interesting topics. Just wanted to say thank you!
Oh, many, many thanks, this is so nice of you!
I'm truly touched by your words. Best, Emmanuel
Thank you so much, Tony!
You are too kind. I’m glad this post was helpful and, most importantly, I wish you the best for finding the 16202 that sings to you! I’m looking forward to seeing which one you will choose to complement your beautiful green dial 15510! Best, Emmanuel
I never knew the Italie included a green dial as well
Emmanuel, another reference quality post! Not easy to do when writing about the Royal Oak. Thanks my Friend!
Great, comprehensive post Emmanuel!
I sometimes regret selling my reference 14802, but during the pandemic, I attained an approximate 1000% return on my investment and couldn’t resist. One of the few occasions on which I actually made money on a watch! The prices on Royal Oaks are, in my op...
Great! Thanks for sharing!
And no regrets: a 1000% return is quite something. Best, Emmanuel
What a solid work you did there! Bravo!
In my personal opinion RO Jumbo is the most comfortable full metal watch. The only watch that beats it in terms of comfort is Bulgari Octo Finissimo in titanium. But the RO looks way nicer not mentioning the waaay better decorated movement.
Thank you so much! I think it's no coincidence that this watch has become the icon it is.
It is really special. Best, Emmanuel
Many thanks Emmanuel for pulling together such a comprehensive report.
My one and only AP is the second generation 15202. I purchased this in the grey market back in 2014 at list - those were the days 🤣. Apart from the green dial a few years later there hasn’t been another that I’ve coveted in the meantime. The charm of doin...
Yes, a not very practical dance,
but I agree that it’s not a good enough reason to move to the 16202. I don’t have a RO and will probably never own one (given the prices and my priorities), but it doesn’t prevent me from sincerely admiring it. Best, Emmanuel
Thanks for this overview and your effort. There's a lot to see here.
When it comes to jumbos this is all I've got. ...
I like "all you've got" very much.
I assume it's an early 15202 and the white dial with Arabic minutes track sets is a little apart from most other variants. Best, Emmanuel