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Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Double-Signed Watches

 

In his comment to my thread dedicated to the Patek Philippe/Somazzi partnership, our dear Gordon aka GLau asked me how many retailers were able to have their signature on some Patek Philippe watches.

Here's my answer: 

  • A/ I have identified 58 retailers whose name appears alongside that of Patek Philippe on the dial of a watch.
  • B/ I have also identified 15 individuals whose name appears alongside that of Patek Philippe on the dial of a watch.
  • C/ I have selected 12 retailers whose name appears only on the back of the watch (not on the dial), but there are many more.
  • D/ Finally, I have also selected 5 retailers whose name appears alone on the dial (but there are probably more).

I have included several examples for most retailers in order to highlight the variations in the signature affixed to the dial or case.

NB: this article by Andrea David was very helpful and I have borrowed some of its content for the description of the retailers. The 2019 Phillips “Double Signed” auction was also helpful. And my visits to the Patek Philippe Museum also played an important role.

Best, Emmanuel


A/ LIST OF THE RETAILERS WHOSE NAME APPEARS ON A DOUBLE SIGNATURE DIAL

  1. Albonico
  2. Alf Lie
  3. Ansorena
  4. Arte Suizo
  5. Asprey
  6. Astrua
  7. Bailey Banks & Biddle
  8. Bauer & Cie
  9. Beyer 
  10. Birks
  11. Black Starr & Gorham
  12. Boucheron
  13. Brinkmann
  14. Brock & Co
  15. Cairelli
  16. Cartier
  17. Casa Masson
  18. Casa Welsch S.A.
  19. Cucco
  20. Cuervo y Sobrinos
  21. Eberhard
  22. Favre-Leuba & Co
  23. Freccero
  24. Galt & Bro
  25. Gobbi
  26. Golay Fils & Stahl
  27. Gondolo & Labouriau
  28. Grogan Co.
  29. Gübelin
  30. Guillermin
  31. Gumbiner
  32. Hausmann & Co.
  33. Hölscher
  34. Horovitz
  35. Howes & Son
  36. Huber
  37. Jaccard
  38. Jost
  39. Keltz-Bloch
  40. Koch
  41. Le Palais Royal
  42. LörTscher
  43. Mappin & Webb
  44. Maurer
  45. Oscar Linke
  46. Serpico y Laino
  47. Shreve Crump & Low
  48. Shreve & Co. 
  49. Somazzi
  50. Stifft Co. Inc.
  51. Tiffany & Co
  52. Trucchi 
  53. Trust Joyero
  54. Udall & Ballou
  55. Union
  56. Walser Wald 
  57. Wempe 
  58. Yard

1. ALBONICO, BIELLA, ITALY 

In 1945, the Albonico family took over the jewelry store opened in 1886 by Ottavio Cucco and run since the beginning of the century by his son Leonzio Cucco: see Cucco, no. 20.

REF. 2476


credit: onbehalf


REF. 2482

credit: @goldfingersvintage


2. ALF LIE, OSLO, NORWAY

The history of what is one of Norway’s oldest watchmakers extends back to 1836 when founder Michel Paulsen returned from Hamburg and started a business in Christiania (Oslo today).

REF. 2525


credit: @watchspecialist


REF. 3416


credit: @theoshaberdash


REF. 3514/4

credit: finn.no


3. ANSORENA, MADRID, SPAIN

Ansorena begins its story in 1845, when Celestino Ansorena decides to open his jeweller’s workshop in Madrid. Very soon, he is consecrated as one of the most important jewellers of the age and in 1860 is named “Jeweller and diamond merchant to the Royal Household”.
REF. 98

credit: onbehalf


4. ARTE SUIZO, BOGOTÁ, COLOMBIA 

Not much information about this Colombian retailer.

REF. 2428


credit: Roni Madhvani


REF. 3448







REF. 3582








REF. 3445



5. ASPREY, LONDON, GREAT BRITAIN

Historic London retailer first founded by William Asprey in 1781 in Mitcham, Surrey

REF. 565




REF. 2584




6. ASTRUA, TORINO, ITALY

Founded in 1860 in Turin by Vincenzo Astrua, this historic watchmaking in Northern Italy has expanded up to, currently, also in Alessandria and Genoa.

REF. 530




REF. 1485




7. BAILEY BANKS & BIDDLE, PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, USA

Founded in 1832 by Joseph Trowbridge Bailey and Andrew B. Kitchen, in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and originally known as Bailey & Kitchen, the company was dissolved in November 1846. Later, in 1878, it was re-established as Bailey Banks & Biddle.

WATCHES WITHOUT REF. NUMBER






8. BAUER & CIE,   

In 1891, Christian Bauer arrived in Colombia, he came from the jewelry capital of Europe, Pforzeim, located in the German Black Forest. He was captivated by Bogota and its people and decided to settle there. In 1893 he opened his own jewelry store, since then, Joyeria Bauer is the most renown and traditional jewelry store in Colombia.

REF. 96




REF. 2508


credit: John Goldberger, Patek Philippe Steel Watches

POCKET WATCH



9. BEYER, ZURICH, SWITZERLAND

Founded in 1760 in Zurich, the family business is currently managed by the eighth generation with René Beyer as CEO since 1996.

REF. 450 (Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-1289)




Early pre-reference 96 watch


credit: @world_time


REF. 3450




REF. 3940




REF. 5170 made for the 250th anniversary of Beyer Zürich (1760-2010)




10. BIRKS, MONTREAL, CANADA

Birks Group, originally called Birks & Mayors, is a group that traces its origins to the opening, by Henry Birks, of a small jewelry store in Montreal in 1879.

The current group, which bears the original name “Birks,” was created in November 2005 through the merger of Henry Birks and Sons Ltd. (Canada) and Mayors Jewelers Inc. (United States).

REF. 2573/2




REF. 3558




POSSIBILY A REF. 10 OR 11, OR PRE-REFERENCE




11. BLACK, STARR & GORHAM, PHEONIX, ARIZONA, USA

Black, Starr & Frost is an American jewelry company founded in 1810; it is the oldest company operating continuously in the United States in the jewelry sector.

Between 1940 and 1962, Black Starr Frost Gorham was named as a partner of Gorham Manufacturing Company; however, the name reverted to Black, Starr & Frost in 1960.

REF. 130




REF. 2555




12. BOUCHERON, PARIS, FRANCE 

It was in 1858 that Frédéric Boucheron set up his own business in one of the shops in the very fashionable Palais-Royal. Because he came from a family of drapers, Frédéric Boucheron reinvented the codes of jewelry.

POCKET WATCH



credit: @timvaux & Maunder Watch Company


13. THEO BRINKMANN, NAPLES, ITALY 

In 1900, after his studies at the Royal Academy of Glashütte, Theo Brinkmann set off to discover the world. Enchanted by the beauty of Naples, he decided to settle there and, on Holy Thursday, he opened his watchmaking workshop in a shop located opposite the Galleria Umberto I, at number 243 on the via Toledo.

TWO OFFICER-STYLE WATCHES




credit: @2tonevintageofficial & Cambi Auction house


POCKET WATCH



14. BROCK & CO, LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA, USA

It is the premier jewelry and gift shop in Los Angeles founded by George A. Brock in 1903.

REF. 513



COCKTAIL WATCH



15. A. CAIRELLI, ROME, ITALY

Wristwatches retailed by A. Cairelli are especially notable because the firm played a key role in supplying timepieces, both civilian and military, in Italy during the 20th century.

TWO OFFICER STYLE WATCHES WITH WIRE LUGS






POCKET WATCH




16. CARTIER, PARIS, FRANCE

Founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the Maison has always been defined as the “jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers.”

REF. 2455




REF. 2568




REF. 1518




REF. 130

credit: Hodinkee


17. CASA MASSON, RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL

Casa Masson was a watch store in Rio Janeiro. Founded in 1871, in Porto Alegre, by the Rio Grande do Sul watchmaker Reynaldo Geyer and the Rio jeweler Leopoldo Masson, the company was initially called Pêndula Misteriosa. Years later, when his Rio partner returned to Rio de Janeiro, the businessman from Rio Grande do Sul decided to pay tribute to his friend and changed the store’s name to Masson.

REF. 522




REF. 1526


credit: Monaco Legend Group


REF. 438

credit: onbehalf


18. CASA WELSCH S.A., LIMA, PERU

G. Welsch, Ehni Y Cia, founded in 1858, was the Peruvian branch, in the city of Lima, of the German Geo Ehni & Co, specialized in the trade of luxury watches and jewelry.

REF. 1491




REF. 1463




REF. 522 (Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-1472)




19. CUCCO, BIELLA, ITALY

The history of this retailer begins in 1886 when its founder, Ottavio Cucco, after gaining experience at the historic Gramaglia jewelery shop in Turin, founded his personal watch shop in via Umberto 86 in Biella, also in Piedmont.

REF. 136


PRE-REFERENCE (and very poor quality photo from Antiquorum)




20. CUERVO Y SOBRINOS, HAVANA, CUBA

In 1882, Ramón Cuervo opened its frst atelier and then also a boutique at Havana’s prestigious San Rafael Avenue. In 1900, his nephew Armando Rio Cuervo and his family joined the jewellery and watchmaking business
which was renamed Cuervo y Sobrinos – Cuervo and Nephews.

REF. 2410




REF. 2461




REF. 2526






21. EBERHARD, MILAN, ITALY

Founded in 1887 in la Chaux-de-Fonds by Georges-Lucien Eberhard, the Maison Eberhard & Co. is a Swiss haute horlogerie company.

In addition to producing watches under their name, Eberhard’s Milan boutique also sold some of the most important Patek watches during the 20th century.

REF. 96




REF. 10



TONNEAU SHAPED WATCH





OFFICER STYLE WATCH WITH HUNTER CASEBACK






22. FAVRE-LEUBA & CO., LE LOCLE and later GENEVA, SWITZERLAND
 
A. Favre & Fils was founded by Abraham Favre in 1737 in Le Locle, Switzerland. It wasn’t until 1815 that one of Abraham’s grandchildren began working with watchmaker Auguste Leuba. A short time later, the Favre-Leuba name was born. In 1865, the company made a daring move and entered the Indian market. Favre-Leuba & Co was the international trading and retail arm of the Favre‑Leuba watchmaking dynasty, especially active in British India (Bombay & Calcutta) from the late 19ᵉ to early 20ᵉ century. 

REF. 437


credit: onbehalf


REF. 2555

credit: ineichen


23. FRECCERO, MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY

Founded in 1868 by Francisco J. Freccero together with Mr. Oscar Spangenberg in Montevideo in Uruguay, the jewelry gave birth to a story of goldsmiths and jewelers that family members have continued to this day.

REF. 1579




REF. 1585




REF. 3448




24. GALT & BRO, WASHINGTON D.C., USA

Founded in 1802 by jeweler James Galt, Galt & Bro is an American retailer of luxury jewelry and specialty items in Washington, District of Columbia.

REF. 2545




TWO POCKET WATCHES






25. GOBBI, MILANO, ITALY

Gobbi jewelery is an entrepreneurial reality born in 1842 in Modena by the hand of Raimondo Gobbi; he later moved to Milan in 1896 in Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

REF. 1579




REF. 3485 


REF. 2523




26. GOLAY FILS & STAHL, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND

Golay Fils & Stahl was founded in 1837 in Geneva by Auguste Golay Leresche and sold at the turn of the century to Mr. Stahl, hence the name Golay Fils & Stahl.

REF. 3652




credit: Sjx

27. GONDOLO & LABOURIAU, RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL

Gondolo & Labouriau, resulting from the partnership between Carlo Gondolo and Paul Labouriau, was Patek Philippe’s sole authorized retailer in Rio de Janeiro between the 1872 and 1927

PRE-REFERENCE WATCHES






POCKET WATCH WITH 24-HOUR DIAL




POCKET WATCH WITH “RELOJOARIA GONDOLO” INSTEAD OF “CHRONOMETRO GONDOLO”


credit: @futuregrailofficial


28. GROGAN COMPANY, PITTSBURGH, PENNSYLVANIA, USA

Business founded by James C. Grogan when J.C. Grogan & Co. was incorporated in 1906.  Jewelers and silversmiths.

REF. 1401




29. GÜBELIN, LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND

Founded in 1854 in Lucerne by Mauriz Breitschmid, it is a family business. Currently at the helm of the company we find the sixth generation of the family with Raphael Gübelin.

REF. 565




REF. 570




REF. 2526






REF. 2570/1




30. GUILLERMIN, PARIS, FRANCE

Guillermin & Mollet are goldsmiths located Place Vendôme in Paris.

WATCH WITHOUT REFERENCE



31. GUMBINER, NEW-YORK CITY, NEW-YORK, USA

Gumbiner was a family-owned jewelry store located on Madison Avenue in New York that sold jewelry of various brands or under its own name.

REF. 2497






REF. 2481




REF. 789/1





32. HAUSMANN & CO., ROME, ITALY

Founded in 1794 by Giovanni Romano Ricci in Rome and started as a watch shop, it represents, to date, one of the most successful and famous companies in the sector.

In 1870 Ernst Hausmann joined the company, a watchmaker who would bring the historic shop to success.

REF. 492




REF. 533




REF. 1579




REF. 3433




33. HÖLSCHER, COLOGNE, GERMANY

Hölscher used to be a jeweler on Hohe Strasse, Cologne's main shopping area.

REF. 2584




REF. 3445


credit: Pascal Karp


REF. 3445/6




REF. 2438/1


credit: @watchessyndrome

34. W. HOROVITZ, ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT 

W. Horovitz (Wolf Zeev Horovitz - 1883-1959) was one of the most prestigious luxury retailers and jewelers in Alexandria, Egypt, active from the early 20th century until the 1950s. 

His boutique at 26, rue Chérif Pacha retailed high‑end European watches (notably IWC and Patek Philippe) and produced important jewelry pieces for Egypt’s elite, including the royal courts of King Fouad I and King Farouk I. 

TWO POCKET WATCHES



credit: Antiquorum & futuregrail


35. B. D. HOWES & SON, LOS ANGELES, CALIFRONIA, USA

Founded circa 1880 in Clinton, Iowa, the brothers Edward and Benjamin Howes's shop specialized in Mississipi cultured pearls, jewelry, silver and watches. After Edward retired and embarked upon a career in politics, Benjamin moved to California and founded the B.D. Howes and Sons company. It developed to over 10 locations in California, Arizona and Hawaii.
REF. 2552




REF. 2499



REF. 3439




REF. 3445

36. HUBER, VADUZ, LIECHTENSTEIN

In 1928, the first Huber store for watches and gold and silver jewellery opened in the centre of Vaduz, Liechtenstein. 

Jules Huber, a watchmaker from the Bernese Oberland, and his wife, Wiggi, from Liechtenstein, laid the foundations for a company that is rich in tradition and now being run in the fourth generation.

REF. 130




REF. 2569/1




REF. 3466




37. JACCARD, ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, USA

Jaccard was one of the oldest, most important, and most prestigious jewelry and watchmaking houses in the American Midwest, founded by Swiss immigrants in St. Louis in the early 19th century. Over time, the firm evolved through several names — Louis Jaccard, E. Jaccard & Co., D.C. Jaccard & Co., and ultimately Mermod, Jaccard & Co. — becoming a major retailer of fine watches, including Patek Philippe.

REF. 565
38. G. JOST, GENOA, ITALY

The opening date of this shop to the public is uncertain, but the business, which began in 1902, was founded by a Swiss gentleman, who moved to Genoa.

He opened his shop becoming an official Patek Philippe dealer in piazza Corvetto 9 in Genoa.

REF. 3435




REF. 3558




39. KELTZ-BLOCH, STRASBOURG, FRANCE

Keltz‑Bloch was a high‑end watch and jewelry retailer based in Strasbourg, active primarily in the 1950s. The firm is known today almost exclusively through double‑signed watches—especially Patek Philippe and Jaeger—that bear its name.

REF. 440


credit: onbehalf


REF. 425




REF. 1532



40. KOCH, FRANKFURT AM MAIN, GERMANY

Juwelier Koch Frankfurt was a German retailer during the years 1940-1970.

REF. 1578






REF. 2584



41. LE PALAIS ROYAL, HAVANA, CUBA

The Palais Royal was recognized as one of the largest and most famous jewelers in Havana that sold precious luxury items, jewels and one-of-a-kind watches.

REF. 565




REF. 1431




REF. 1491




POCKET WATCH




42. LÖRTSCHER, BRUSSELS, BELGIUM

Belgian watch retailer Louis Lörtscher was located in Brussels, Rue Montagne de la Cour, 81.

REF. 491




REF. 2510




REF. 2525/1




43. MAPPIN & WEBB, RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL

Mappin & Webb is a jewelry company founded in 1775 by Jonathan Mappin in Sheffield in England. In 1862 his great grandson John Mappin with his brother-in-law George Webb turned it into “Mappin, Webb & Co”. Nowadays it became an international company mainly selling jewels and silverware.

Mappin & Webb expanded internationally, beginning in the 1890s. Its first overseas store was established in Johannesburg, and stores soon followed in Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Biarritz, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Cairo, and Bombay. Mappin & Webb Rio de Janeiro was the Brazilian branch, opened in the early 1910s on Rua do Ouvidor, then the luxury artery of Rio. 

REF. 96

credit: onbehalf


44. MAURER, BARCELONA, SPAIN

Relojería Maurer (also known as Maurer y Cía or Oswald Maurer & Cie) was one of the oldest and most important watch retailers in Barcelona, founded by Oswald (Oskar) Maurer in 1858. It became a major Patek Philippe retailer in Spain and remained active well into the 20th century.

REF. 96


credit: onbehalf


REF. 322



45. OSCAR LINKE, GENOA, ITALY

Genoa retailer active during the years 1930-1970.

REF. 570




PRE-REFERENCE




POCKET WATCH




DESK CLOCK



46. SERPICO Y LAINO, CARACAS, VENEZUELA

One of the two founders, Vicente Laino, born in Italy, emigrated to Venezuela in the 1920s. Settling in Caracas, he went into business with Leopoldo Serpico, another Italian immigrant.

REF. 1463




REF. 565




REF. 2508




TWO REFS. 2526






47. SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, USA

Established in 1796 by watchmaker and silversmith John McFarlane, the company is one of the oldest jewelry stores in North America.

REF. 431




REF. 2526




48. SHREVE & CO., SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA, USA

Founded in 1852, it is considered the oldest commercial establishment in San Francisco.
REF. 2292



49. SOMAZZI, LUGANO, SWITZERLAND

Orologeria Somazzi was founded in 1860 by Stefano Somazzi and it is a family business that has been selling, repairing and restoring watches ever since.

REF. 96




REF. 130




REF. 1516




REF. 3548/1J




50. CHARLES S. STIFFT CO. INC, LITTLE ROCK, ARKANSAS, USA 

Charles S. Stifft & Co. was a jewelry and watchmaking firm based in Little Rock, Arkansas, active in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It appears in American watchmaking literature as a recognized retailer, sometimes also an inspector of railway watches, which was a crucial role in American watchmaking at the time.

NB: on the dial, the “t” at the end of “Stifft” is missing: mistake of the dial maker? lack of space?

REF. 2501



credit: Roni Madhvani


51. TIFFANY & CO., NEW-YORK CITY, NEW-YORK, USA

Tiffany & Co., also known as Tiffany’s, is an American company founded in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany in New York, Manhattan, and deals with the creation and sale of jewelry.

REF. 2597




REF. 5070




PRE-REFERENCE WATCH




52. TRUCCHI, NAPLES, ITALY

Historic Patek Philippe dealer, for more than a century the Trucchi brand has been a fixed point in the world of Neapolitan luxury.

2017 is an important year for the company as their Patek Philippe boutique was opened on the island of Capri.

REF. 2499




REF. 1463




REF. 3420



REF. 789/1




53. EL TRUST JOYERO, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

the origins of El Trust Joyero Relojero trace back to 1901, when Juan Peire, a watchmaker from Gibraltar, arrived in Buenos Aires and established what would become the iconic jewelry and watchmaking business.

REF. 11




PRE-REFERENCE




REF. 130




OFFICER STYLE WATCH




POCKET WATCH WITH MOP DIAL




54. UDALL & BALLOU

New-York retailer and jeweller. The company specialised in Art Deco style jewellery but ceased to exist in 1949.
Ref. 513



55. UNION, BARCELONA, SPAIN

Unión Suiza (“Swiss Union”) was one of the most prestigious watch and jewelry retailers in Spain, founded in Barcelona in 1840 by Swiss immigrants. It became a dominant distributor of high‑grade Swiss watches—including Patek Philippe—and later expanded to Madrid and other cities.

THREE WATCHES WITHOUT REFERENCE NUMBER







56. WALSER WALD, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Founded in Argentina in Buenos Aires some 83 years ago, it is one of the relatively few Patek Philippe dealers in South America.

REF. 591




REF. 592




REF. 1463




POCKET WATCH WITH CHRONOGRAPH




POCKET WATCH WITH A DIFFERENT SIGNATURE




57. WEMPE, HAMBURG, GERMANY

Founded in 1878, in Elsfleth, Lower Saxony in Germany, it has been at home in Hamburg since 1907. The business began with Gerhard D. Wempe with the idea of having his own watch workshop.

REF. 5125 - The W125 was specially produced in 2003 to celebrate the 125th anniversary of the relationship between Wempe and Patek Philippe.








58. YARD, NEW-YORK CITY, NEW-YORK, USA

Raymond Yard founded his jewelry company in 1922 and then retired in 1958; subsequently, the company was taken over by Robert Gibson who, after a career of 52 years, retired in 1989 and the Yard company passed to his son Bob Gibson.

REF. 130




REF. 1450






REF. 4134/1
B/ LIST OF THE INDIVIDUALS WHOSE NAME APPEARS ON A DOUBLE SIGNATURE DIAL

  1. Robert Anstead 
  2. Seth G. Atwood
  3. M. Berthaudin
  4. E. Bonnard
  5. Dr. Adauto Junqueira Botelho
  6. Richard E. Byrd
  7. Toni Cavelti
  8. J.B. Champion
  9. Thomas Emery
  10. Henry Graves
  11. Dr. Miranda Monteiro
  12. Michael Steven Ovitz
  13. James Ward Packard
  14. Domingos Macedo Pereira
  15. Henry H. Shufeldt
1. ROBERT ANSTEAD, LOS ANGELES, USA

Robert Christian Anstead (1892-1990) was a Los Angeles importer and retailer of luxury items
Minute Repeating Pocket Watch with Power Reserve (Patek Philippe Museum Inv. P-1061)

2. SETH G. ATWOOD

Seth Glanville Atwood (June 2, 1917 – February 21, 2010) was an American industrialist, community leader, and horological collector.

In 1971, he founded the Time Museum at the Clock Tower Resort in Rockford, Illinois, which later became one of the leading horological museums in the world with nearly 1,500 pieces of horological collection, including atomic clocks.

REF. 871 SECULAR PERPETUAL CALENDAR

This watch is one of only two references 871 made in 1972 and incorporating a secular perpetual calendar. The other example is on display at the Patek Philippe Museum.
credit: Sjx


3. M. BERTHAUDIN

Marcel Berthaudin was one of the largest wine dealers in Geneva. Note that the "R" of BERTHAUDIN lost its "leg" on the dial and looks like a "P".

REF. 96



credit: Antiquorum & @the_watch_adviser


4. E. BONNARD

Bonnard was actually a client of Patek – Emile-Charles Bonnard, a retired French medical professor who retired to Switzerland – who requested this ref. 96 as a special order.

5. DR. ADAUTO JUNQUEIRO BOTELHO 

Chronometro Gondolo pocket watch from the Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-1132




6. RICHARD E. BYRD

Admiral Richard Evelyn Byrd Jr., (1888 - 1957) is one of America’s greatest explorers. Cf. Four watches of Admiral Byrd





7. TONI CAVELTI, VANCOUVER, CANADA

Toni Cavelti was a Swiss goldsmith and jewelry designer who emigrated to Vancouver, Canada in 1954 and attracted attention for extremely unusual pieces of jewelry.

He was not a watch retailer.

REF. 3700/1J






credit: Craig David Long


8. J.B. CHAMPION

Joe Ben Champion, Jr. (1917-1975). Cf. this article on Hodinkee.

credit: Hodinkee


9. THOMAS EMERY

Collector who, like James Ward Packard, had his monogram “TE” carved on his desk clock.


10. HENRY GRAVES JR

Tourbillon pocket watch of Henry Graves Jr on display at the Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-1395



Desk clock on display at the Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-1270





11. DR. MIRANDA MONTEIRO  

Chronometro Gondolo pocket watch from the Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-1153



12. MICHAEL STEVEN OVITZ

Famous collector who had his monogram “MSO” printed on the dial of his watches

REF. 5004






REF. 3940




REF. 5059



13. JAMES WARD PACKARD

Desk clock with his monogram “JWP” on the case and his complete name on the dial (“JAMES WARD PACKARD WARREN OHIO 1923”) on display at the Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-140




14. DOMINGOS MACEDO PEREIRA 

Chronometro Gondolo pocket watch on display at the Patek Philippe Museum (inv. number unknown)




15. HENRY H. SHUFELDT

Captain Henry Hubbard Shufeldt (1842–1910) was a United States Navy officer, son of the famous Rear Admiral Robert Wilson Shufeldt, a key figure in early American diplomacy with Asia.

Pocket watch on display at the Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-1573







C/ LIST OF RETAILERS WHOSE NAME APPEARS ON THE CASEBACK ONLY

  1. Bauer & Cie
  2. Boodle & Dunthorne
  3. Cortina 
  4. Garrard
  5. Grottendieck
  6. Harrods 
  7. Hausmann & Co
  8. Andreas Huber
  9. Jost
  10. George Pragnell
  11. Shreve, Crump & Low
  12. Sincere

NB: Most timepieces with the retailer's name only on the caseback are anniversary pieces. I've included only a selection. For a more comprehensive overview, see Edouard Henn's excellent article for Collectability: IN-DEPTH: PATEK PHILIPPE RETAILER ANNIVERSARY PIECES. 

1. BAUER & CIE





2. BOODLE & DUNTHORNE

REF. 5049P





3. CORTINA, SINGAPORE

Established in 1972 as a modest single-store family business, Cortina Watch has grown into one of the key subsidiaries under Cortina Holdings Limited, contributing to a retail network of over 40 boutiques across the Asia Pacific region.

REF. 5057 made in 2022 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Cortina Watch






4. GARRARD

This is the Calatrava 3998SR ‘Garrard 150th Anniversary’, released in 1993 as part of a 150-piece limited edition commemorating the 150th anniversary of Garrard, the prestigious British Crown Jeweller, who was also one of the Maison’s long-time retail partners in the United Kingdom.





5. GROTTENDIECK, BRUSSELS, BELGIUM

Located in Brussels, Charles Grottendieck was, between the 19th and 20th centuries, the watchmaker of the King and Queen of Belgium

POCKET WATCH






6. HARRODS, LONDON, GREAT BRITAIN

Harrods, renowned department store in London. It is located on Brompton Road, south of Hyde Park, in the borough of Kensington and Chelsea. Henry Charles Harrod founded it as a grocery store in 1849.

REF. 3923 made in 1999 for the 150th anniversary of Harrods




7. HAUSMANN & CO., ROME, ITALY

REF. 5000 made in to celebrate the 200th anniversary of Hausmann & Co.




8. ANDREAS HUBER, MUNICH, GERMANY 

Andreas Huber founded his watch shop on 13 October 1856 in the Roeckl-Haus, Karlsplatz (Stachus) 4, Munich. 

His company became Royal Bavarian Court Clockmaker, supplied Ludwig II, and later produced precision instruments, stopwatches, and branded watches such as Urania. 

REF. 5033 made in 2006 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Andreas Huber. 






9. G. JOST, GENOA, ITALY 

POCKET WATCH






10. GEORGE PRAGNELL




11. SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW

POCKET WATCH






12. SINCERE

REF. 5035G








D/ LIST OF RETAILERS WITH THEIR NAME ONLY APPEARING ON THE DIAL (5 examples)

  1. Bailey Banks & Biddle
  2. Peña Madrid
  3. Shreve & Co.
  4. Vicente Saavedra Madrid
  5. Tiffany & Co
1. BAILEY BANKS & BIDDLE, PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, USA

OPENFACE MINUTE REPEATING PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH






2. PEÑA, MADRID, SPAIN

F. de la Peña was the watchmaker to the queen and supplier to the court, Madrid.

PERPETUAL CALENDAR POCKET WATCH (Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-1281)




3. SHREVE & CO., SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA, USA

MINUTE REPEATING SPLIT-SECONDS MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH OPEN FACE 




4. VICENTE SAAVEDRA MADRID

Pocket watch on display at the Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-427




5. TIFFANY & CO

Jump hour wristwatch in platinum from 1927-1928, on display at the Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-1417




Two pocket watches on display at the Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-1567 & P-1690






Photos credit (unless otherwise stated and excluding photos from the Patek Philippe Museum, which are mine): Phillips, Christie's, Sotheby's & Antiquorum

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63 Comments view entire thread 

😳 this is an incredibly detailed reference on the topic , thanks 🙏

 
By: oyster case : March 7th, 2026-20:19
I prefer dials that are only signed by the maker but fascinating post nonetheless 🙂

Thank you so much.

 
By: quattro : March 7th, 2026-22:35
Personally, my taste for double signatures depends closely on the more or less evocative name of the retailer and the graphic execution. Sometimes I like it, sometimes I don’t. Best, Emmanuel

The total has risen to 51 with the following additions:

 
By: quattro : March 8th, 2026-09:38
1. Alf Lie 2. Ansorena 4. Arte Suizo 28. Guillermin 37. Koch 40. Oscar Linke

What an incredible wealth of information.

 
By: Champthekid : March 7th, 2026-20:33
I had no idea about the majority of them. Thank you for doing the work on this, Emmanuel! Now to find a few 😁

Thank you so much, J.

 
By: quattro : March 7th, 2026-22:38
When John Nagayama offered for sale the 592 Walser Wald I was tempted because it wasn’t expensive and I like the name of this retailer from Argentina. But I finally met it go. Best, Emmanuel

Thank you so much, J.

 
By: quattro : March 7th, 2026-22:47
From what I’ve seen, such a comprehensive survey had not yet been carried out and I’m glad that it is now. Best, Emmanuel

You might be interested:

 
By: quattro : March 8th, 2026-09:39
the total has risen from 45 to 51 with the following additions: 1. Alf Lie 2. Ansorena 4. Arte Suizo 28. Guillermin 37. Koch 40. Oscar Linke

The total has risen from 45 to 51 with the following additions:

 
By: quattro : March 8th, 2026-09:39
1. Alf Lie 2. Ansorena 4. Arte Suizo 28. Guillermin 37. Koch 40. Oscar Linke

Another outstanding post

 
By: Arronax : March 7th, 2026-22:55
Thanks for sharing the passion. I found it interesting that the Cartier logo sat on top of the PP one, says it all !

Thanks for the link

 
By: Arronax : March 7th, 2026-23:06
The one with the three red lines is a complete surprise and what makes this hobby so interesting.

Just to let you know:

 
By: quattro : March 8th, 2026-09:40
the total has risen from 45 to 51 with the following additions: 1. Alf Lie 2. Ansorena 4. Arte Suizo 28. Guillermin 37. Koch 40. Oscar Linke

The total increased from 45 to 51 with the following additions:

 
By: quattro : March 8th, 2026-09:41
1. Alf Lie 2. Ansorena 4. Arte Suizo 28. Guillermin 37. Koch 40. Oscar Linke

Just in case you're interested,

 
By: quattro : March 8th, 2026-09:41
the total increased from 45 to 51 with the following additions: 1. Alf Lie 2. Ansorena 4. Arte Suizo 28. Guillermin 37. Koch 40. Oscar Linke

OMG I would have never guessed there were so many! 🙈

 
By: Mike H : March 8th, 2026-11:24
That’s another reference post to keep preciously 👍👌👌 many thanks again Emmanuel for gathering all this amount of information 🙏

My pleasure, Mike, even if making such a post is exhausting.

 
By: quattro : March 8th, 2026-13:28
I just added five more retailers: Albonico, Boucheron, Brinkmann, Horovitz & Keltz-Bloch... Enjoy your Sunday! Best, Emmanuel

This is such a great compilation

 
By: traineract : March 8th, 2026-13:03
Very detailed with lots of photos. Thanks for the time and effort to put this up. It will be a great reference article for all watch enthusiasts. I really enjoyed reading this.

Thank you so much. My goal is indeed to make reference posts

 
By: quattro : March 8th, 2026-13:30
and I'm beginning to think how I could bring this research work to the next level (but no clear ideas right now). In case you read the thread after my recent update, I just added five more retailers: Albonico, Boucheron, Brinkmann, Horovitz & Keltz-Bloch.... 

I can only imagine

 
By: Concord : March 8th, 2026-14:03
i can also appreciate how much you enjoy doing so , ref 96 is a dream watch. Best, Ashot

Hi Emmanuel, Fantastic post and thank you so much for informing us about this 51 retailers that provided double stamped watches !

 
By: GLau : March 8th, 2026-14:07
You are becoming a historian of certain interesting facets of Patek ! A follow-up question: Other than Tiffany which continues to have double-stamped dials, for the ADs which are still operational, do they also carry out the stamping ?

Hi Gordon,

 
By: quattro : March 8th, 2026-14:19
yes I am passionate about Patek Philippe's history and I think I will try to bring this research work to a next level, even if I don't know how exactly right now. I have updated the post with 5 more retailers (56 in total now): Albonico, Boucheron, Brinkm... 

To my knowledge only Tiffany remains the sole retailer having its name still as a double signature…

 
By: Mike H : March 8th, 2026-16:20
Nobody but Thierry Stern himself knows until when… even if I have my personal unverified opinion about the issue… Btw just remind me who owns Tiffany now? The Stern family has always been thinking long term for the Patek house so who on earth are the only... 

I must have heard a voice! 😇

 
By: quattro : March 8th, 2026-20:57
That said, I don’t really know/understand why Patek needs to be in good terms with LVMH… 🤷🏽‍♂️

What a seminal post !.. Thx for doing all this research !

 
By: hs111 : March 8th, 2026-16:20
Also appreciate the wealth of pictures in this compilation ! 👍 Best, 😊

Thank you so much! I love doing

 
By: quattro : March 8th, 2026-17:01
such in-depth research, even if the time and concentration needed for it can be a bit exhausting, I must say. However, I find Patek Philippe's history extraordinary and I'm starting to think of how I could bring all the research work done during the past ... 

Thank you so much for this very well researched post.

 
By: mahakalaa : March 9th, 2026-09:18
I congratulate you. I’ve never even heard of some of these retailers. I own one Patek which is co branded with Beyer. Best Anand

Thank you so much for your kind words, Anand.

 
By: quattro : March 9th, 2026-09:25
I'm glad you find this post interesting. Would you share with us your Beyer Patek (only if you wish, of course)? Best, Emmanuel

Thanks Emmanuel.

 
By: mahakalaa : March 10th, 2026-02:27
I have yet to wear it sadly. Fell in love with it on sight although it did not fit my wrist. Just had to have it. Bought it telling myself that I will lose weight at some point and be able to sport it then. That, unfortunately, has yet to happen but hope ...  

These watches are very special indeed.

 
By: quattro : March 10th, 2026-04:59
They fit a particular wrist at a particular moment. But some of them, like your examples, are really beautiful. Thanks for sharing. Best, Emmanuel

You are most welcome.

 
By: mahakalaa : March 11th, 2026-01:45
Please keep those informative posts coming. I really enjoy reading them

Well Harrods is on the third list (C):

 
By: quattro : March 18th, 2026-22:01
a piece was made for their 150th anniversary in 1999, but with their name on the back only. Thanks for the kind words. Best, Emmanuel

Hopefully,

 
By: quattro : March 19th, 2026-06:50
this is the most comprehensive “article” on this subject. In any case, that's the goal I tried to achieve... Best, Emmanuel