Patek Philippe Case Profiles: Baselworld 2016
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Patek Philippe Case Profiles: Baselworld 2016

By Mark in Paris · Apr 19, 2016 · 50 replies
Mark in Paris
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Mark in Paris offers a compelling look into the often-overlooked artistry of Patek Philippe case profiles, arguing that these subtle details are fundamental to the brand's enduring appeal and superior craftsmanship. His detailed photo essay from Baselworld 2016 challenges collectors to move beyond obvious features and appreciate the intricate design work that defines Patek Philippe's unique aesthetic. This article remains highly relevant for understanding the nuanced design philosophy that sets Patek Philippe apart.

You know that, when looking carefully at Patek pieces' details, we discover all kind of beautiful elements we didn't notice at first sight. These elements are what, imperceptibly, make these watches so special and refined.

Some cases in watchmaking are made to look "spectacular" (i.e. big or thick usually) but this isn't what Patek is about IMHO. It doesn't aim at impressing on a cover of a magazine or a webzine with big cases or massive colors contrasts, it impresses by its work's subtelty and the mastery of adding refined details.

If you didn't already paid attention to it or aren't that familiar with the brand's collection, please have a closer look in the future to the markers (the way they are faceted), the hands' curves, the registers/windows' frames (like the gorgeous 5960's date one with its polished and sandblasted surfaces), the grooves and detailed lugs, even the simpler ones are usually beautiful. You may also consider observing the caseband's shape and the way it is working with the bezel (stepped or not) and the caseback.


5960P: polished frame with sandblasted inner sides and polished edges. This part is a masterpiece you should see in the metal.





5227R: stepped markers and facetted window frame. Fantastic in the metal too.




You will then be able to see why some cases are much harder to craft than others: straight and thicker cases are always easier, thus less expensive, less time consuming, needing a more basic technic, to produce than small/thin and round ones.

The case's shape or the dials are the most obvious but there is also a part we don't pay as much attention to: the profile. This part of the watch says a lot on this matter.

We often underestimate how much the brand's collection offers in terms of diversity.

I compiled, just for the pleasure, the profile photos of all the watches presented during Baselworld 2016 (new versions of existing references or brand new ones). Patek Philippe has taken advantage of their long uninterrupted history and archive conservation work to keep using technics not all brands master today.

There are more in the current collection but I thought that it would be enough for now. These don't take into account additional ones belonging to the current collection which were not concerned by this year's evolutions (it was a way to make a selection and reduce the sample). I don't think of many brands, especially in the high-end segment, that offer such a diversity of beautiful cases.

People sometimes ask why some brands are more expensive and this is definitely a part of the answer. It is IMHO quite reductive to limit craftmanship to chamfering of a movement only and I believe skills can be shown in this field in a more visible way.

Here they are, a pleasure to explore smile (and time to make some guess maybe)

Cheers, Mark




MEN WATCHES


6300 Grandmaster Chime, a work of art.

We may like "Clous de Paris" or not but if we do this new profile is simply gorgeous to my opinion. Not the thinner one but we understand why in this "case".




6104R Celestial.

The caseband isn't flat but slightly "rounded", and so seems to be the edge/side part of the bezel. I like that one quite much.




5327 (Perpetual Calendar)

The 5227 Calatrava's design, not that impressive on the picture but very much so in the metal (maybe my favorite case from the 2 last decades together with the 5975's).




5160 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date

The 5159 engraved version. Not the style we would wear daily but a great art work for sure (and even better in the metal!)




5930 WT Chronograph

We talked about quite much lately, a more masculin evolution like in the 5230.




5131R WT Enameled

One of the last model using this case style we had in the 5110, 5027/5127, 5130, 3940, 5140 etc... previous generations. A must-have? Maybe.




5230 WT

It looks very sober from that side and the front view makes it so different.




5374 (enamel dial, PC, MR)

The fantastic case work from last year's new 5370P. A lot of character in the metal.




5396 Annual Calendar




5140 Perpetual Calendar

Impressive thinness for Patek's well known Perpetual Calendar




5164 Aquanaut.

I must say I didn't recognize the watch at first sight because of the lugs' style. I never noticed they looked like this with the square lines smile




5170 Chronograph




5204 Perpetual Calendar Split Second Chronograph

A convex/concave play that is something very attractive to me. And, after I saw it in the metal, maybe finally my favorite Patek of Basel 2016 in this new material.




5496 Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante Date




5539 Minute Repeater

Romance...




5950 Split Second Chronograph

This caseband looks very different from the round references for sure...




5959 Split Second Chronograph

Beautiful and smooth shape case again, especially considering the 33mm size.




5961 Annual Calendar Chronograph

This one looks a little more impressive than the models above but the lines, and sometimes their opposite orientations, make a wonderful combination IMHO.




6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon

Another very complicated watch with a awe-inspiring engraving work






LADIES WATCHES

7122 "Timeless White"




7200

I wonder if this is not my favorite profile of the 4 ladies novelties.




4897




4968




5067 Aquanaut







This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2016-04-19 15:37:30

About the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5140

The Patek Philippe Reference 5140 is a perpetual calendar wristwatch, succeeding the highly regarded Reference 3940. It maintains the classic Patek Philippe perpetual calendar layout, featuring day, date, month, leap year, and moon phase indications. The 5140 was introduced with a slightly larger case diameter than its predecessor, reflecting contemporary preferences while retaining a traditional aesthetic.

This reference is powered by the ultra-thin self-winding Caliber 240 Q, known for its micro-rotor construction which allows for a slender case profile. The movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The watch is presented in 18k white gold, rose gold, or yellow gold cases, measuring 39 mm in diameter, and is fitted with a sapphire crystal. It offers water resistance to 30 meters.

The 5140 appeals to collectors seeking a modern perpetual calendar with a direct lineage to Patek Philippe's established complications. Its production run from 2006 to 2019 saw various dial configurations, including opaline and silvery finishes. The watch is typically paired with a leather strap and a deployant clasp, consistent with Patek Philippe's classic offerings.

Specifications

Caliber
240 Q
Case
18k White Gold, Rose Gold, or Yellow Gold
Diameter
39 mm
Dial
Opaline, Silvery
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AL
alphabeta81
Apr 19, 2016

That split seconds pieces don\'t have a Patek signed crown like the rest of the collection. Interesting!

CH
chuck19
Apr 19, 2016

which I took for grant yet I knew there is something magical about PP and the level of their craftsmanship. I agree about your comment that watch making is not just about how the movements were finished but rather , the sum of its parts. Your post has further cement my interest in PP. Cheers !

SA
Sandgroper
Apr 19, 2016

...which I find much more elegant than having a button sticking out at 10 or 8 as can be seen on some brands. Cheers, Francois

DR
dr.kol
Apr 20, 2016

I took a couple of my watches and started to look them literally from a new angle. You mentioned the fantastic lugs of 5975. I have never looked at that watch from that angle but will correct the mistake when I'll get one into my hands next month. The main issue is, just like you are pointing, that Patek watches are not just their nice movements or well made dials. They are a sum of factors and details including the history of Patek Philippe. Thank you Mark for your efforts once again, Kari

GE
geross
Apr 20, 2016

Compare to the other brands. Asside from the fine elegant finish of their movements. Reliable movements also. Thanks for sharing Mark. Cheers. Geross.

WA
watercolors
Apr 20, 2016

secret of Patek's in to the open. Profile of a watch is as beautiful as the whole watch. The 5539 from your list looks to me like most alluring profile of all. Best Regards Edward

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