Patek Philippe Black Breguet Dial Collection
Vintage

Patek Philippe Black Breguet Dial Collection

By ImranLondon · Sep 19, 2015 · 17 replies
ImranLondon
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
17 replies16421 views14 photos
f ๐• in ๐Ÿ’ฌ โœ‰ ๐Ÿ”—

Miranda celebrates the allure of Patek Philippe watches featuring the exquisite black Breguet dial, particularly when paired with white metal. His post traces the history of these dials from the 1940s to modern references, showcasing rare vintage pieces and contemporary interpretations that captivate collectors.

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To own any Patek is a superb accomplishment. But for me the icing on the cake is to own a Patek with what I consider to be the most mesmerising of all the dial variations, the utterly gorgeous black Breguet dial (applied arabic markers). The most stunning combination is in my opinion with the cold contrast of white metal! 

Black Breguet dials go back to the 1940's, and in those days you could request this dial for almost any watch, with or without complication. Yes back then you could order your steel Calatrava with a black Breguet dial. Of course today these are rare and sought after. Not many were produced, and when examples do occasionally appear at auction they are fiercely fought after.

Here is an example of such a beauty :



Pic credit: Christies
Pic credit: Christies

But it was not just Calatrava cases, here is a fantastic large size steel, yes steel! 36mm dress watch, this unbelievable example fetched over 300,000 CHF!! What dream combination of beauty,size and dial and in steel!!




Pic Credit Christies
Pic Credit Christies

It was not just simple watches, but complications too could be had with this dial, and of course that means my dream watch (alas it will always remain a dream, as it is possibly unique, maybe no more that 2 or 3 at most).
You can't get better than a steel chronograph ref 130 with black Breguet dial....





Patek Museum book vol.2
Patek Museum book vol.2



Pic credit: Puristspro
Pic credit: Puristspro

you can of course get close to owning this unobtainium piece of horological art, the modern reference 5170 made its debut with a black Breguet dial: a very close and exquisite modern rendition:



Pic: Patek.com
Pic: Patek.com m

and if you have patience and resource the ultimate rendition is the platinum split second, extensively covered in this forum: But if thats a little too common, Patek actually offer a steel split: Is this the only modern Patek in steel with this dial? probably yes!




Pic:Patek.com
Pic:Patek.com

Back to vintage: and another unbelievable example, again in steel. The sought after ref 565, waterproof case, for mere mortals, another piece to just dream about. Getting a steel 565 is hard enough...then this, it blows your socks off..




Pic Credit: Christies
Pic Credit: Christies

More recently, Patek in the 90's presented the TV case 5020 with a black Breguet option, as well as the perpetual 5040 and 5041: Interestingly Osvaldo Patrizzi has (had) a white metal 5040 with Breguet dial in black. I think he know a thing or two about Patek....




Pic: internet search
Pic: internet search

If you were a good enough customer, you could make special request! here is a piece many would not existed: the venerable 3970, with a black Breguet dial!





Apart from the chrono's you can get the 5940 perpetual with this fabulous dial:



Pic:Patek.com
Pic:Patek.com

What I would like to see is simple Calatrava, maybe the 5196p return with this dial, just as they produced the 5026 in the 90's. In steel would be better , but that is just never going to happen I think, but maybe this will be re-born in a more modern size:



Pic Credit: Watchcentre
Pic Credit: Watchcentre

Patek have often used this dial for special pieces either as limited editions such as the 1997 minute repeater for the opening of the Plan des Outes Manufacture or Tiffany anniversary pieces or as the grand complications in regular production:













Hope you enjoyed this brief tour, and welcome to the dark side!

Best
Imran

About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 130

The Patek Philippe Reference 130 is a significant chronograph model, notable for its classic design and the various configurations in which it was produced. While many examples feature a standard chronograph layout, specific iterations, such as those with split-seconds functionality, represent a higher echelon of horological complexity within the reference. The model is recognized for its balanced proportions and the legibility of its dial, making it a favored choice among collectors seeking vintage Patek Philippe chronographs.

This particular example of the Reference 130 is distinguished by its yellow gold case, measuring 33mm in diameter. It houses a manual-winding movement, typical for chronographs of its era, and is fitted with a crystal, likely acrylic or sapphire depending on the specific production period and any subsequent servicing. The case construction and movement finishing adhere to Patek Philippe's high standards for precision and durability.

Collector interest in the Reference 130 is driven by its historical importance as an early chronograph from the brand and the rarity of certain dial and complication variations. The presence of unique characteristics, such as Breguet numerals, specific dial signatures, or the absence of a tachymeter scale, can significantly influence its appeal. The reference appeals to those who appreciate the foundational designs of Patek Philippe's chronograph lineage.

Specifications

Caliber
13'''
Case
Yellow gold
Diameter
33mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
4J
4Js
Sep 19, 2015
Great post!

I just love coaxial registers on black dials with the Breguet applied numerals. The dial IMO is just so balanced. Best Joe

GE
geross
Sep 19, 2015
Very informative post.

I must say i learned a lot from your post. Much appreciated. Best Geross

DR
Dr No
Sep 19, 2015
An obscure example . . .

. . . ref 1543 . . . [image credit: winddown, watchprosite] . . . and there's also a less ornate similar model, the run of twenty ref 1578s in black for General Motors. Not a Patek guy myself, but either of these two noir references could find a home in my collection ;-) . . .

AM
amanico
Sep 19, 2015
Black Minute Repeater and 565 for me. Superb post, Imran. [nt]

WA
watch-guy.com
Sep 19, 2015
oh Imran. That black magic you weave so well....

What great review of some unknowns I have seen the 1578 but unfortunetaly the dial had been "tainted" I recently tried on the 5170 and I think PP has another stunner on its hands But my pockets are empty and for the moment I will have to live my PP life vicariously through you wonderful people on Purists Thanks again Julian

KE
keks
Sep 19, 2015
Black Breguet 565... Wow

Who can not be a fan of breguet black dials.... The 5396G is sublime... The 5026G had it been 35mm it would be priced 3x+ I suppose but oh so beautiful... The recent 5170G is fantastic but in my dream world would have been 1-2mm smaller with a concave bezel... But have to say my fav black dial modern would be the 5960P (yes not breguet I know but hey life can not be perfect)! Then there is the 5125P of course... Arrrghhh

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