Collection
Miranda's exploration of Patek Philippe's chronographs, specifically the 5960P with its black dial and the 5170G, offers a compelling look at how Patek Philippe balances tradition with contemporary design. This post highlights the rarity of black dials in Patek Philippe's history and the subtle design cues that connect modern references to iconic vintage pieces, providing valuable context for collectors interested in the brand's chronograph lineage.
Patek and chronograph, a combination which is as rare as it is desirable. For many years the options were very limited, indeed when the ref.5070J was launched in 1998, it was the first "simple" chronograph for 40 years. Today we are spoiled! And this year we are further spoiled by two exceptional chronographs, so distinct from each other yet steeped in Patek history.
I start with the one I feel has quietly slipped under the radar,,,the new 5960p with black dial. Black dials are very desirable, and very rare. The last classic with black dial (in regular production) was the 5070J. The 5960p is ofcourse well known to all who frequent this forum, so perhaps you could be forgiven in thinking...yet another version so nothing new here to be seen. Well, actually, the black dial has lifted the 5960p to a new level.
The 5960p has a bad boy look....the contrast between the hard cold platinum and the deep black makes this a real mean machine. Yet despite its modernity you can still see the history of Patek. The case lends itself from the classic 1463 with its waterproof screwback and pump pushers.
Of all the watches from basel this year, this was the one that caught me by surprise...but what a surprise 
Black dials are a rarity with Patek and especially with chronographs. In recent years, Patek have made many special pieces in this sumptuous combination of platinum and black, for instance the 5500 Pagoda, the 5970p, and of course the Millenium in platinum-the new 5960p has illustrious company. Vintage Patek chronographs are ofcourse as rare as the proverbial hens teeth.
The Patek "bad boy",
The classic waterproof pump button 1463: you can see the DNA
The sensation of this year was the much anticipated ref 5170g. What we did not expect was the dial..with Breguet numbers. Only a true Patek lover understands this insane fixation with Breguet numbers. It is perhaps because of the history behind these very special numerals:
Now whilst many collectors crave a new steel chronograph, it is a fact that in vintage watches, the white gold ref.130 is far rarer than the steel! Infact it was not until we saw the premiere of the 5070G that we had a serial production of chronographs (without complication) in white Gold:
the iconic 5070G
A rare vintage chronograph in WG:
Even rarer is large size chronographs...in any metal. the ref 530 is perhaps the most desirable of all classic chronographs with its 36mm case:
The 5170 is the true hier to the ref 530. All of the classic features are there ofcourse, the Calatrava case, square pushers and two counters. What we in the new 5170G is a piece which is bursting with heritage and desirable features. A white gold case, Breguet numbers and pulse scale....this is what dreams are made of. The true beauty can only be appreciated when you see this piece. As for the movement, its eye candy....
There are always comparisons with its forefathers, especially the 5070. They are very two different watches, only joined by common ancestory. In my opinion a 5070G and 5170G would make perfect partners in any collection
Best
Imran
The Patek Philippe reference 1463 is a significant chronograph model, notable for its water-resistant case design, often referred to as the "Tasti Tondi" due to its distinctive round chronograph pushers. This reference stands out as one of the few Patek Philippe chronographs of its era to feature a screw-down case back, a design element that provided enhanced protection against dust and moisture, distinguishing it from many of its contemporaries with snap-on backs. It represents a blend of traditional chronograph aesthetics with a more robust construction.
This reference typically features a case diameter of 33mm to 35mm, though some examples can be found up to 38mm, crafted in various precious metals including yellow gold, rose gold, and stainless steel. It houses a manual-winding chronograph movement, specifically the Caliber 13''' CHR, which is based on a Valjoux ébauche but highly finished and modified by Patek Philippe. The crystal is typically acrylic, and the dial configurations vary, often featuring two subdials for constant seconds and a 30-minute counter.
For collectors, the reference 1463 is highly sought after, particularly examples in stainless steel or rose gold, which are considerably rarer than those in yellow gold. Its robust construction and classic chronograph layout appeal to those who appreciate vintage tool watches as much as haute horlogerie. The "Tasti Tondi" pushers are a defining characteristic, contributing to its unique identity within Patek Philippe's historical chronograph offerings and making it a cornerstone for many serious collections.
Yes, the 5960P with this black dial is very tempting. I would have hard time deciding which one to choose,, between the 3 dials offered on the platinum version. In my opinion, the clear winner of this year. As for the 5170G, not a fan. Much better, according to my own tastes, than the J, but still, the case, the hands, and the dial of the 5070 G look much more refined. Look at these hands, we are far from the elegance of the 5070 ones, for example. They could have gone for different hands, of co
I don't mind chips but you probably like dauphinois being French But at the end it's still a complex carbohydrate Best Imran :)
The photos say a thousand words.
As you said it is easy to pass throughthe novelties, a little bit too quickly. I like the terms "Bad boy", it makes me think of another black dial I would have loved to possess: the 5396G Tiffany LE. As for the 5170G, it seems to be a fantastic elegant and full-of-history chrono. I havn't seen it yet in the metal but I thinkit's going to haunt my dreams. Thanks for the pictures ;) Cheers, Mark
Our 5131G Brothers will meet relatively soon. Will there be a day when our 5170G Brothers will meet? Best, Kari
nice flashback. So interesting to see how every watch that comes out today as its roots deep in the past... and you can feel it has the strength to face a long futur. That's the power of DNA Thanks for the report
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