Horological Meandering

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Just back from Baselworld 2016: My Top 20 Watches

It is not easy to do a selection of the favorite watches from a Baselworld fair. I always have the same strange feeling choosing between pieces which don't share many common points... not to mention the very wide range of prices! Actually, this type of exercise is interesting, because it allows us to measure the global quality of the fair. To be honest with you, in this year's economic crisis context, I didn't have a lot of expectations before joining Basel. Perhaps it is the best way to not be disappointed. But in my mind (and my experience has confirmed it many times), these difficult times are not very favorable to make the most daring creativity emerge. And it is usually a problem for the brands since creativity is the best solution to escape from a gloomy atmosphere and improve sales figures.

Having said that, I found the offering from the 2016 Baselworld Fair quite good, or to be more precise: better than expected. Some big brands were surprising (and some were very disappointing...). Basel always gives the opportunity to discover true nuggets from the independent watchmakers. This is the great asset of the Fair when compared to SIHH - it remains the biggest and the widest gathering of brands and watchmakers. It is almost impossible to leave Basel without one or several seducing pieces in mind.

So here is my selection of 20 pieces. Why 20? Because I wished to be able to gather different styles and different prices in the selection. And frankly speaking, I would have a big problem if I had to reduce this selection to 15 or 10. Anyway, that's the fate of any selection. I'm sure that I forgot some pieces which would have deserved to be on this list more than several watches below. But, each of us would have a different selection so I prefer to take the plunge without thinking too much time about it. It is better to listen to the heart than the brain in this context.

Let's discover my selection!

01 ANDREAS STREHLER SAUTERELLE À LUNE EXACTE

A visit at the AHCI booth is always mandatory. And Andreas Strehler did it again with his Sauterelle Lune Exacte. Actually, it combines the accuracy of the movement with the accuracy of the display (increments of 3 hours) thanks to the clever use of the Vernier Scale. The remontoir d'égalité still plays its role and at the end, Andreas Strehler offers a new demonstration of his skills. And of course, as usual with him, the movement itself decorates the watch.

I never miss a visit at my friend Yvan Arpa. Because I know that I will always see something I will not see elsewhere. I could introduce you the double-axis Tourbillon 3 Gongs Minute Repeater. But while I was at the Fair I was under the charm of this beautiful dial engraved by Bram with Gold inlay. There is something Italian in this Artya Lion's Head watch... I don't know why but I felt I was in the Renaissance!

05 BELIER REVERSE

Belier is the brand by AHCI candidate, the Dresden-based Kim Djapri. You know Kim if you visited the independent watchmaking boutique in Dresden. I met him there several times. I have to confess that I was very seduced by his watch which highlights the balance wheel. Even if I found it a bit too large, I consider Kim Djapri's work as very promising. And his brand uses a French name so it is a good start!

06 CHANEL MONSIEUR

The pure dial of Monsieur uses a font which was designed in the context of the watch.

The question is whether a Chanel watch, this time purely dedicated to men, will appeal to its clients. We will see but I appreciated seeing this new ambition by Chanel.

07 CHOPARD L.U.C. PERPETUAL CALENDAR STEEL


Chopard presented a solid 2016 collection with a very significant trend: the use of LUC movements in stainless steel case. And not only with a simple watch but also with a perpetual calendar one!

The moonphase is gone from this perpetual, but the will of Chopard to offer such prestigious complication in a more affordable price range has to be underlined.

08 GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SENATOR CALIBER 36

The caliber 36 is the key novelty for Glashütte Original. Designed to be more reliable, easier to be serviced and featuring a 100 hours power reserve, the caliber 36 is used for the first time with a lovely 40mm Senator available in 3 versions: 2 classic and 1 inspired by an observation watch with black dial.

The beauty of simplicity:

09 GIRARD-PERREGAUX TOURBILLON LA ESMERALDA

We will have a lot of opportunities to come back to the 2016 collection of Girard-Perregaux. The Tourbillon La Esmeralda obviously deserves to be in the collection thanks to its flawless execution and the magic of the behaviour of its regulating organ. I also like the decoration style of the dial behind the bridges.

** 10 GRÖNEFELD 1941 REMONTOIRE **

The Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire is my favorite watch of the Fair! Everything seems to be consistent and at the right place. Even the idea behind the watch: the 8 seconds constant force system which is visible on the dial side.

Without any doubt, the 1941 Remontoire wins the prize of the most beautiful movement of the 2016 edition of Baselworld.

But that is not enough. The perfect proportions (the case diameter of 39,5mm) and the pure (but with a touch of character) design make this watch very desirable.

The winner of the Fair:

11 HUBLOT BIG BANG MECA-10

Hublot was among the most active global brands... as usual. And the surprise was coming in this case from the Big Bang Meca-10. I like this handwind movement because its lay-out enhances the technical feeling of the Big Bang. It plays with different power reserve displays and I found it nice to use and very pleasant for the eyes. An excellent companion for the 45mm Big Bang case.

12 JACOB & CO. ASTRONOMIA CLARITY

Jacob & Co did it again... and they won my curiosity. I haven't missed visiting the booth in years, because I knew that I would discover some spectacular pieces.

The Astronomia Clarity goes even beyond than the last year Astronomia... the watch is thick, bulky... but at the same time light and aerial. A true feast for the eyes.

 

13 KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN RUSSIAN TIME

Russia is the biggest country in the world. So big that more than 10 timezones have to be used. And of course, Konstantin Chaykin had to play with this geographical context! We all know his creativity and his ability to design watches and complications we will never see elsewhere... and the Russian Time offers us a daily tour across Russia! Thanks Mr Chaykin for your always enjoyable watches!

14 LONGINES RAILROAD

15 NORD ZEITMASCHINE FREESDIAL

The latest piece from NORD Zeitmaschine, the Freesdial, plays with its hands to create an amazing ballet. We find again the key features of any NORD watch: the feeling of depth, the technical (if not steampunk) design and the intriguing time display. You love it or hate it, there is no mid-water here!

I shot a movie of this watch which I will publish later; it will demonstrate the behaviour of the main hands:

16 NOMOS TETRA NEOMATIK

The Nomos Tetra is -- as you can guess it from its name -- a square watch. It is an old favorite of mine in the Nomos collection. It comes back this  year with a larger case (33x33mm) and with an automatic movement (the DUW 3001). I like the outcome but please note that the pictured watch, the Tetra Neomatik tiefblau doesn't feature the exact final color.

17 OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK2998

I found the Speedmaster Moonphase with blue dial very attractive. But my fav Omega watch of the year is the lovely CK2998 and its blue details. It escapes from the main industrial trends from Omega (METAS certification etc...) and its charm is irresistible! But please note that the watch uses a sapphire glass and a ceramic bezel.

18 PATEK PHILIPPE 5930 WORLD TIME CHRONOGRAPH

Patek Philippe is of course the reference of the high-end segment. And I was not disappointed this year under the sign of the world timers and the calendar watches. Actually, it was a celebration of the annual calendar complication but the star of the show was obviously the 5930 which combines a worldtime display and a chronograph. Chronograph aside, the basic movement is the 28-520 which powers the HU module (so forget the micro-rotor). The 5930 has several nice details (a good cities ring balance, the dial colors, the central guilloché) but my heart preferred some other Patek novelties. Maybe because the dial layout lacks a touch of fluidity, and I find the minute counter of the chronograph a bit too small.

Anyway, Patek has a strong 2016 collection and the 5930 remains a good flag-bearer.

19 ROLEX AIR-KING

We already spoke a lot about the Rolex Air-King. The only thing I can say is that I decided to put this watch in my selection rather than the Daytona because I found it more original, more disturbing and in the end more interesting. I have a soft spot in my heart for this dial and the Milgauss case finds a new life in this environment. I read the criticisms about the combo between the large figures and the double-digit minutes markers: it is not an issue for me; I think the opposite. This contrast brings energy and originality. A watch to be tested and to be appreciated.

20 ULYSSE NARDIN GRAND DECK MARINE TOURBILLON

The Ulysse Nardin Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon is not a mere watch. It is an invitation. An invitation to sail, an invitation to discover a sailboat on the wrist!

The key point about this watch is the behaviour of the minutes hand. Look at the picture and observe the tiny threads which are almost invisible. Actually, they slow the retrograde movement of the hand and this visual effect is a marvel. I will publish a movie later.

The aesthetical bias is very disruptive which makes the watch so special. I'm not a big fan of the design but I like the overall consistency and the ideas which became reality. 

A true proof of the capabilities and skills of the Ulysse Nardin Manufacture.

My selection is now over. I hope this presentation enables you to feel the diversity of the watches on offer at the Baselworld Fair. I know that this selection is questionable and each of us would have his OWN list of watches. Maybe I will change it in a few days! Anyway, I would like to thank the teams of all the brands I visited (and I visited a lot!) for their warm welcome and their availability.

Fr.Xavier