Vacheron Constantin

Initial thoughts on Vacheron Constantin’s 2014 novelties

 

In 2013 Vacheron Constantin focused on watches for women, with a nice selection of new models and variations on existing watches for men announced later in the year. This year Vacheron Constantin has focused on very high-end skeleton pieces, some based on existing models such as the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon and the Malte Tourbillon, and one, the Metiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées, which is entirely new.

A tourbillon from Vacheron Constantin is always going to have a certain wow factor, and skeletonizing it only enhances its dramatic impact. Vacheron Constantin has been doing wonderful work with skeleton watches for decades, and that work continues. I like that the date and power reservef unctions of the original Malte Tourbillon (30060) have been returned to the Malte Tourbillon openworked, though like the all skeleton watches, legibility is not always the first priority. (Without the wheels and accompanying bridgework there would probably be too much open space in the upper left quadrant of the watch, creating an unbalanced look). Retail value, subject to change, is $252,300.

The Patrimony Taditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon openworked is gorgeous. The weakest aspect of the standard production model, the display of the power reserve, is de-emphasized here amidst the decoration and detail of the movement. Retail value is $362,300.


Best is show goes to the Metiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées (which also has the most page views of all the press releases). The caliber 4400 looks like it was designed to be openworked: the placement of the mainspring barrel at the 12 o’clock position gives a wonderful balanace to the bridgework. The use of the rings for the Roman numeral hours and then the enamel, either blue., black, or gray under it, gives a lot of depth to the watch as well as makes it one of the more legible skeleton watches in the market. Retail value is $75,200.


With all of the openworked models, the chasing on the bridges is less ornate than we have seen in the past from the brand. I find this current look to be in the sweet spot between the more ornate designs of the past and the pure satin finished look that was on display with the openworking of the Maki-e pieces from a couple of years ago.

I am very much looking forward to seeing the photos and reading the reports from the PuristSPro moderators and VIP guests who were ableto attend SIHH. I expect to get the chance to see these pieces in the spring when the watches come over to the US for marketing and press purposes,and will hopefully add my photographs then.

 
Bill
VC Forum Moderator