Vacheron Constantin

In 2013 Vacheron Constantin focused on watches for women, with a nice selection of new models and variations on existing watches for men announced later in the year. This year Vacheron Constantin has focused on very high-end skeleton pieces, some based on existing models such as the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon and the Malte Tourbillon, and one, the Metiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées, which is entirely new.

A tourbillon from Vacheron Constantin is always going to have a certain wow factor, and skeletonizing it only enhances its dramatic impact. Vacheron Constantin has been doing wonderful work with skeleton watches for decades, and that work continues. I like that the date and power reservef unctions of the original Malte Tourbillon (30060) have been returned to the Malte Tourbillon openworked, though like the all skeleton watches, legibility is not always the first priority. (Without the wheels and accompanying bridgework there would probably be too much open space in the upper left quadrant of the watch, creating an unbalanced look). Retail value, subject to change, is $252,300.


The Patrimony Taditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon openworked is gorgeous. The weakest aspect of the standard production model, the display of the power reserve, is de-emphasized here amidst the decoration and detail of the movement. Retail value is $362,300.


Best is show goes to the Metiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées (which also has the most page views of all the press releases). The caliber 4400 looks like it was designed to be openworked: the placement of the mainspring barrel at the 12 o’clock position gives a wonderful balanace to the bridgework. The use of the rings for the Roman numeral hours and then the enamel, either blue., black, or gray under it, gives a lot of depth to the watch as well as makes it one of the more legible skeleton watches in the market. Retail value is $75,200.


With all of the openworked models, the chasing on the bridges is less ornate than we have seen in the past from the brand. I find this current look to be in the sweet spot between the more ornate designs of the past and the pure satin finished look that was on display with the openworking of the Maki-e pieces from a couple of years ago.

I am very much looking forward to seeing the photos and reading the reports from the PuristSPro moderators and VIP guests who were ableto attend SIHH. I expect to get the chance to see these pieces in the spring when the watches come over to the US for marketing and press purposes,and will hopefully add my photographs then.

 
Bill
VC Forum Moderator

 

Even if it was presented some weeks ago the main novelty is still for me the ultra thin minute repeater. An entire new repeater, ultra thin, understated.

For me, the Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements stole the show.  These really have to be seen and seen under a loupe to be fully appreciated.  Photos don't do it.  This set demonstrates how some watches transcend being timekeepers and become works of art.

I was left torn between the two skeleton tourbillons -- both are magnificent, and I left them with perhaps the slightest preference for the Malte.  But I prefer the solid dial 14-Day Tourby over the solid dial Malte Tourby. 

I for one very much like the power reserve on the dial of the 14-day, as I think it adds a balance to the tourbillon display at the bottom of the dial, and the PR is such a major component of the entire concept, I would hate to have seen it, for instance, relegated to the back of the watch.  Now, my top preference among the new tourbillons is the Collection Excellence Platine 14-Day Patrimony Traditionelle Tourbillon.  That's the ONE!  I guess I prefer a platinum dial over a skeleton.  ;-)  Well, a boy can dream can't he?

The skeletonization work on the new Métiers d'Art Mécaniques Ajourées pieces is breathtaking.  Skeletonization has long been an art at VC second to none.  I think they have simply upped their game in this area -- and it is not as if they had to.  I am so glad that they did not go the direction that other brands have gone in recent years to try for a very modern almost minimalistic approach to skeletonization. What they have done here looks like nothing else out there.  It remains very true to their heritage while taking the art to another level. 

 Finally, the Malte Small Seconds received a facelift so soon after its initial introduction, and I am sure that the revisions will help to make this watch more popular.  I will be in the minority, I guess, when I say that I prefer the original dial.  The starkness of the dial without the minute track is just so striking and allows the focus to remain solely on the beautiful polished, beveled hour markers and the gorgeous dial.  Oh, well, just my opinion.  I remain agnostic on the decision to open the back up with a view onto the cal. 4400.  It is great to have a view of this lovely movement, but it belies the fact that we are seeing most, but not all, of the round movement through the tonneau-shaped crystal.  Still, I think this was probably a smart decision by the VC designers and no doubt reflected what they heard in the marketplace.

Here is a snapshot of my "travel kit" for SIHH:

Thank you Vacheron Constantin for a superb 2014 Collection and for being the most generous and gracious of hosts.

Best regards,

respo

Almost as much as the 1731 MR.

What was cool and something I learned was that all of the new VC in-house movements that have come out in the 21st century were conceived and designed with skeletonization in mind.  That is some nice foresight.

This allows for the open-work to be done in layers, creating much more of a 3-D look. It is not the same as the cal 1003 and cal 1120 that VC has skeletonized in the past, and for the MDA Fabuleux Ornements. Based on your great eye, you seemed to have noticed this on your own. 

VC says it took over 500 hours to design how the skeletonization would be done (at least on the 14-day Tourbillon, and 50 extra hours of labor to do the actual skeletonizing (on all of the new open-worked movements).

Best of the VC show for me would be the Open-Work 14-Day Tourbillon.  I realized that I didn't notice the off-centered dial with all the open-work beauty to feast my eyes upon.

I love the skeletonized cal 4400, and actually think the diamonds on the bezel are discrete enough for me to feel comfortable wearing it,