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Vacheron Constantin

Chocolate Sampler

 

The years 2006-2007 seems to usher forth a large number of watches with brown dials from many brands. VC fell prey to the trend (fortunately, in my opinion) most famously with the rose gold Overseas Dual Time watch, limited to 250 pieces and launched at SIHH 2006 for the tenth anniversary of the Overseas:






But the brand also produced, with much less fanfare, a set of limited edition watches for the North American market. The Malte Tonneau Chronograph, reference 49145, was given a sporty update, where the designers chose to amp up a brown dial with red accents: the chronograph hand, the numbers inside the 30-mintue and 12-hour totalizers, every fifth minute hash on the exterior minute track, and the stitching of the brown strap.

Vacheron Constantin made 100 of these watches in stainless steel and 30 in rose gold. Both came with a double folding buckle in the matching metal. Each watch was individually numbered on the side of the case opposite the crown. The case back is signed, “MALTE SPECIAL US EDITION.”






Interestingly, I saw a preproduction example, the illustration of which is below, where the hour hands were in the style of the anniversary watches from 2005, and as they are now on the Malte Tonneau Chronograph, Reference 49180:





I applaud the choice to return to round subdials for the totalizers with this edition. The tonneau shape for them in the standard model Malte (and Royal Eagle) Chronograph always felt gimmicky to me. The designers got it right with the production model, making the right choices for a sporty watch.

It’s been two years since I first saw this watch. I think it has aged well and don't think anyone who bought one should feel like a fashion victim. VC has since gone and made a Patrimony Traditionnelle Caliber 2755 with a similar chocolate brown dial for a Parisian retailer:




Picture courtesy of Alex Ghotbi


I would hope that Vacheron Constantin keeps expirimenting with brown dials, placing them in limited edition watches. Every example to date has been a winner.

Bill

 

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